That brand new look for engine cases

Lineslinger said:
A bit off topic but a coating note.
Does anyone use Glyptal coating for the interior surfaces of their engine?
I used it extensively when rebuilding automobile engines and used it on the inner surfacing of my 850 engine before reassembling.
It acts a surface sealant that oil will not "stick" or adhere to...I was introduced to it in my other life from a high performance engine building friend...just curious if any others used it on a MC engine rebuild.
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I've never used it on any Norton case rebuilds, however the cases never oozed oil when installing bearings, and they had never been split. Very old school but effective. I still use powdered "Tide" laundry detergent with a nice brush when cleaning cylinder bores after honing. Bought a Drouin and the PO did coat the inside of the primary I would imagine due to the obvious porosity noted on the exterior. Maybe it was evident on the inside too, I don't know. Some friends in their 70's all did these things as a SOP when building motors.
 

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The yaki said:
Re polishing alloy chrome or stainless over 50+ years I've tried the lot. If you have never heard of "white diamond metal polish" then look it up on ebay or amazon. Outstanding results with little effort Autosol, mothers, astonish and all the rest come nowhere near. I have no connection with this polish but give it a try. Not cheap but I Won't use anything else now !!!
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yep ,me too :) One tip, when using White Diamond, polish as usual then let sit overnight if possible, and wipe off and burnish . Its kind of smeary if rushed.
 
...and shake that White Diamond container thoroughly, even put a chopstick in there to stir up particulate from the bottom - that's the "good stuff!" Store sideways. Appreciate that tip BTW I am a nut about AutoSol and Mother's but found this to be great, especially on older Zildjian cymbals.
 
Another advantage of White Diamond is, as I have noticed tonight, is that the rag that you used to apply it a day or two ago is still usable to polish today.
It doesn't dry out. Still gives the same great results!
Cheers
 
I'm still a little confused if we're talking about cases or covers. IMHO, many polishes work well on covers. My favorite is my benchtop buffing wheel to get them nice once and then Maas followed by a microfiber cloth. If I want it more mirror like finish after the Maas I use Blue Magic and a microfiber cloth - most cream type polishes would probably do the same.

For cases, I don't want them polished or painted. I make the cases and head look new and then simply keep them clean with soap and water. If they get a stain, I clean it with a brass brush and WD40 followed by denatured alcohol and then soap and water. Unless you use ridiculous pressure as brass brush won't hurt aluminum and solvent in WD40 helps clean and the oil in it helps the brass not scratch the aluminum.

I've written my method of making cases and heads look new before and withstood the attacks. PM or call me if you want to know.
 
I think that you will find that diamond is much much easier to give results than your method. Unless of course you're trying to do old neglected "covers". Roy.
 
Every week? Yes, a part of one of several gets a clean. It's a bit like painting the forth bridge ! I only do a little at a time. Not the job I'm most eager to do for any length of time. Like housework ! Roy.
 
A large assortment of small brushes, including brass bristle and stiff plastic bristle, and a bowl of hot water 50/50 with simple green, is a good start. Once you get the cases clean, another selection of buffing tips and a cordless drill with Mother's aluminum polish will get the covers looking spiffy. I never "polish" the actual cases.
 
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