Teledraulic fork rebuild

I have had a slight weep of fork oil out of the right P11 teledraulic fork leg for years. I have just wiped it off and gone riding.
Today I drained the remaining fork oil in the right leg and have a measured quantity of 5oz. The owners manual says 6oz on a drain/refill, so the leak was pretty small for 4000 miles.

Anyway, I go looking for cheap 20W motor oil to use for refill as I did not remember any local MC shops.
Walmart, Advance Auto, AutoZone, Tractor supply and I find that 20W motor oil, or hydraulic oil, or jack oil, is not available!!.......all multi weight oils!
So driving home, figuring online order time, I pass a hole in the wall Harley shop I had forgotten about and screech to a stop. walk back and sure enough they stock Maxima 20W fork oil. I was pleased and bought two bottles. I am planning on future Teledraulic work.

I am guessing my red fiber washer 010706 , on the bottom bolt , is leaking.

Teledraulic fork rebuild
 
I loosened the top hex chrome stanchion screws , then lower triple clamp pinch nuts, then took a heavy rubber mallet to the top screws. Stanchions did not move. I'm thinking this is going to need heat but I'd rather not mess up the original black paint on the triple clamps.

Any tips? I hit it really hard with a rubber mallet. May try wood and a hammer before my breaking out my heat gun.
 
Got it undone. Undid the top triple clamp center bolt and used a drift against the inner lower ridge in the stanchions. Everything came apart in one go. Was a challenge removing the stanchion from the fork leg due to rust. Unsure if these parts will clean up but we’ll see.
 

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Anyone have a good used lower rod leg to replace my rusted one?

Black plastic bushing looks OK to reuse.
 

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View attachment 6267[/QUOTE]

I will blast the rusty parts with fine grit.
My forks are missing items 2,4,5 (what are these?) and 10 (rebound short spring).

Did '67s have these?

I don't believe these parts are really necessary but am curious as to why mine are absent.

I have heard there are 2 versions of these forks, street and offroad.
 
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elefantrider said:
Are those 3 rubber parts to prevent the spring from hitting the stanchion?
Click to expand...

Obviously. I wasn't aware of their existence until today :)
If buffer springs are missing, your forks are probably of the long travel scrambler type introduced by AMC in 1962, in which case the dampers (028048) and main springs (p/n 016782) will be particular as well. As a road bike, it is recommended by HYCAM and others to change dampers and main springs to the road type (021974 and 022369 respectively) and fit appropriate buffer springs (022079). Use the parts list for the 1963 G80 roadster as a reference.
G80CS main springs for road use (021790) will have too little remaining spring force after pre-load.

021790 free length 11.25" wire gauge 0.222"
022369 free length 11.9" wire gauge 0.212"

-Knut
 
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mdt-son said:
Obviously. I wasn't aware of their existence until today :)

-Knut
Click to expand...

They came in a kit I got from AMC spares, and he refers to them as "stops".
They are smaller than the diameter of the stanchion and cannot be expanded to fit over the stanchions so that is not where they go.
 
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Yes you are right, he sent the wrong parts!

Where does part #44 go? Sandwiched in between 22 and 23?

And isn't #21 a rubber part also? I believe this too should be colored green for consumable.

Also, my bike is missing #43 washer which may explain the rocking problem.
 
Original black plastic bushing was in very good shape, seemingly little wear on these.
Replacements now offered in bronze.
 
elefantrider said:
Where does part #44 go? Sandwiched in between 22 and 23?
Click to expand...

This is kind of an O-ring which fits on the top bolt #22. It stops ingress of moisture into the stanchion / fork tube.

elefantrider said:
And isn't #21 a rubber part also? I believe this too should be colored green for consumable.
Click to expand...

No, chromed metal. There is one rubber part in the h/l bracket assy to take up slack, that's #18.

elefantrider said:
Also, my bike is missing #43 washer which may explain the rocking problem.
Click to expand...
Unlikely unless the adjusting nut bottoms out on the stem - I don't think it will - this washer just distributes load more evenly and preserves paint on the h/l lug (upper triple tree). Your rocking problem could be the adjusting nut not tightened sufficiently, or - I fear - bearing cups moving in the headstock. Please check. You may want to glue them.

While the fork itself is a work of art, those bearings are pathetic IMHO.

-Knut
 
elefantrider said:
Original black plastic bushing was in very good shape, seemingly little wear on these.
Replacements now offered in bronze.
Click to expand...

I believe they are made of a phenolic thermoset. Very hard-wearing and requires little lube. I doubt the bronze bushing offers a real improvement.

-Knut
 
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Agree, the fork is a work of art. You are right, the top bearing cup IS moving in the frame headstock. That is the only race which was moving. Others are a tight fit. SO that could be the reason, but my fork leg was also cracked so that could be a cause as well. The triple clamps are back together and I do not notice any rocking.

Getting the head bearings back together is a bit of a challenge. I presume the grease should be laid on thick in between the cups to prevent dust entering the bearing.

I will be assembling this bike like the prototype without a headlamp or the ears, so will remove all the parts between the triple clamps halves.
 
mdt-son said:
I believe they are made of a phenolic thermoset. Very hard-wearing and requires little lube. I doubt the bronze bushing offers a real improvement.

-Knut
Click to expand...


Unsure what material it is but has lasted 50 years. Will do some testing. In addition to the bronze replacements, I also have the new Andover replacements which look like grey Delrin.
 
elefantrider said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/302934137053

Nice set. For spare or artwork for the garage.
Click to expand...

Pretty expensive artwork, and a shame not to use them on the appropriate bike. BTW, this is the first time I see P11 type of headlamp lugs on a set of forks coming off a G80CS.

If I wanted fork spares, I would grab a pair of the new fork sliders on the market. Sliders are susceptible to fatigue cracking. Rest of the fork (except for springs and sheet metal) should better be assembled from new parts.

-Knut
 

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