STS Full Auto head studs
- Thread starter jseng1
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Those would work. Length might also be a consideration. Molnar barrels are unique and were (for me) a challenge to get the nuts started on the two front studs. I ended up using 12-point ARP 24 tpi nuts like you show in the image rather than the long-shouldered nuts typically used.I'm trying to verify that these waisted shank ARP studs will fit the STS head when combined with Andy Molnar cylinders. 16 tpi into the head and 24 tpi for the 12 point ARP nut. So far so good.
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I'd be interested in allens with rolled theads but haven't found them in 20 tpi the correct length. I would also be interested in the same length allens with 26 tpi
2.3" minimum under head length and 1.6" minimum underhead length
Also - Are Molnar 5/16" cylinder studs near the pushrod tunnles 26 tpi? Would the stock studs screw into the Molnar cylinders the same as the Molnar studs? And would they also work with an STS head?
2.3" minimum under head length and 1.6" minimum underhead length
Also - Are Molnar 5/16" cylinder studs near the pushrod tunnles 26 tpi? Would the stock studs screw into the Molnar cylinders the same as the Molnar studs? And would they also work with an STS head?
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1-7/8" length should work on the three 3/8" studs.
The 5/16" stud question illudes me. Molnar 5/16" studs are 2-1/8" long and threaded 11/16" equally on each end. There is something strange about them though. Molnar's studs are .311" in diameter at the threads and my stock studs are .305". I could not get the Molnar studs started into a set of iron barrels I have on the bench. The tpi is the same but the thread is fatter or slightly wider on the Molnar studs. I did not use the Molnar studs in the Molnar barrels. I used another stainless set that I was using in my iron barrels previously. Probably sloppy in there, but they tightened up when bottomed out on the shank. I don't know what to tell you that would be useful. I don't manufacture fasteners. Knut probably has some technical information he could provide.
Here's a pic of the 3/8" stud pocket in the Molnar barrels for anyone that cares. That fin under at the base of the pocket makes for some fun. The pockets are also very narrow. I had to take a dremel to them to get a wrench to turn in there.
The 5/16" stud question illudes me. Molnar 5/16" studs are 2-1/8" long and threaded 11/16" equally on each end. There is something strange about them though. Molnar's studs are .311" in diameter at the threads and my stock studs are .305". I could not get the Molnar studs started into a set of iron barrels I have on the bench. The tpi is the same but the thread is fatter or slightly wider on the Molnar studs. I did not use the Molnar studs in the Molnar barrels. I used another stainless set that I was using in my iron barrels previously. Probably sloppy in there, but they tightened up when bottomed out on the shank. I don't know what to tell you that would be useful. I don't manufacture fasteners. Knut probably has some technical information he could provide.
Here's a pic of the 3/8" stud pocket in the Molnar barrels for anyone that cares. That fin under at the base of the pocket makes for some fun. The pockets are also very narrow. I had to take a dremel to them to get a wrench to turn in there.
Matchless
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3/8" BSF into the aluminium of the head (20 tpi). Mine stripped after a short while, so I machined & fitted some inserts. some inserts.
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Is the recess for the 3/8" nut restricted more at the top? I'm assuming you can get a wrench in down lower. Maybe a spacer is needed for the short 12 pt nut with a regular length stud?1-7/8" length should work on the three 3/8" studs.
The 5/16" stud question illudes me. Molnar 5/16" studs are 2-1/8" long and threaded 11/16" equally on each end. There is something strange about them though. Molnar's studs are .311" in diameter at the threads and my stock studs are .305". I could not get the Molnar studs started into a set of iron barrels I have on the bench. The tpi is the same but the thread is fatter or slightly wider on the Molnar studs. I did not use the Molnar studs in the Molnar barrels. I used another stainless set that I was using in my iron barrels previously. Probably sloppy in there, but they tightened up when bottomed out on the shank. I don't know what to tell you that would be useful. I don't manufacture fasteners. Knut probably has some technical information he could provide.
Here's a pic of the 3/8" stud pocket in the Molnar barrels for anyone that cares. That fin under at the base of the pocket makes for some fun. The pockets are also very narrow. I had to take a dremel to them to get a wrench to turn in there.
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The roof of the pockets is machined flat.
Long convoluted story as to why my head ended up fastened to the Molnar barrels the way it is.
I had socket head grub screws as spacers in the stud holes, but removed them. However, a spacer would work depending on the length of the stud.
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