Stator number 2 !!??

Rotor centralized on crankshaft? Oversized rotor key could be a problem. Remember that shaft should be straight as well. Two bearing crankshaft in paralel twin should be allowed to act like a skipping rope. Hence the Superblend conversion. This is also the reason why it's necessary to have an ample and equal gap all around between rotor and stator.

Nater_Potater said:

MikeG said:

I'm thinking that just over tightening the outer cover nut might be enough to flex the inner cover to cause misalignment.

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Easy to do. However, the inner cover "should" be properly supported at the center bolt. Take a look at http://www.oldbritts.com/1973_g10.html, paying attention to the #11 shim placed over the center hold-down stud. This/these should be stacked so that, when the three bolts at the crankcase are tightened, that the inner cover just kisses the stack of shims. That way, tightening the center bolt won't cause the inner cover to warp, potentially moving the stator. If the inner cover's been off before (likely), these shims are easy to overlook.

Nathan

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Took the inner and outer covers off today. Center bolt is shimmed properly. This brings me to another question. My Hayne manual...not the best source I know....says to tighten the outer cover center hold down nut "fully" . Exactly what the hell do they mean? Looking in through the chain adjuster hole I can see it's possible to crank that nut down till the center of the cover is drawn tight against the boss on the inner cover..if it didn't crack first :roll: :roll: What is the proper amount of tension to put on that nut? Till the gasket is just flattened? Till it doesn't leak??

25 ft lb

Mine shoulders out against (outboard) shims selected to facilitate o-ring compression, thereby holding the inner primary securely in position.

concours said:

Mine shoulders out against (outboard) shims selected to facilitate o-ring compression, thereby holding the inner primary securely in position.

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:idea: I wondered if that might not be a better way.