Stand for Frame-off Rebuild

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Stephen Hill

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A good friend has offered to give me the stand he used for his total rebuilds of a couple of Norton Commandos. I have no immediate plans to do a frame-off rebuild, but I have several complete basket cases that one day I hope to build.
The frame is welded steel, with a wide base that could be bolted down, and three upright arms with solid round clamps that attach to the two lower frame rails and the cross tube at the lower front.
The stand would put the lower rails about hip level. Sorry, no photo.

I was wondering if this is similar to what others have used for their total rebuilds? I don't recall seeing pictures of stands. Other than the odd photo of a frame teetering on a wooden box, or strapped to a workmate.
What do people use?
And how useful do you think the frame described above might be??
 
Stephen Hill said:
A good friend has offered to give me the stand he used for his total rebuilds of a couple of Norton Commandos. I have no immediate plans to do a frame-off rebuild, but I have several complete basket cases that one day I hope to build.
The frame is welded steel, with a wide base that could be bolted down, and three upright arms with solid round clamps that attach to the two lower frame rails and the cross tube at the lower front.
The stand would put the lower rails about hip level. Sorry, no photo.

I was wondering if this is similar to what others have used for their total rebuilds? I don't recall seeing pictures of stands. Other than the odd photo of a frame teetering on a wooden box, or strapped to a workmate.
What do people use?
And how useful do you think the frame described above might be??
Click to expand...
Sounds like your tool could be useful, but hard to tell without a photo. I used a Harbor Freight motorcycle jack (frame strapped down at times for complete to the frame disassembly and reassembly) then went to the bike’s center stand after the motor and tranny were in. My wife and I installed the motor assembly with everything laying on the garage floor using moving blankets and a large piece of foam. I pondered getting a motorcycle table, but we are fairly flexible senior citizens with decent joints. I am glad I didn’t get it. Your experiences may vary.
 
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I have a full size hydraulic motorcycle lift, but I don't think it is the right tool for the job. And rebuilds can take a lot of time and I want to keep the lift for working on the bikes I ride.
 
I have this for quick jobs, highly recommended if tight on space. However, they have been out of stock for many years. I got mine used on eBay:
https://www.kendonusa.com/collections/stand-up-folding-motorcycle-lifts Mine is the largest side - I wish I had the medium size. They are very stable, and fold up to put away.

For my builds, I built two of these: https://gregmarsh.com/MC/MMCT.aspx I also have a two prototypes I make out of junk wood in my basement with two bikes on them - they work fine but are narrower so not as much workspace. They too have storage underneath.

On those rare occasions, where I don't have a bike on each, they make a good workbench. the best part is being able to easily roll them out of the way.
 
Best thing ever I brought for my shed was the bike lift table and small MC scissor jack when not being used I roll it under the snooker table out of the way, but I also have a steel long skinny table frame that I cut the legs down and put large caster on the bottom of the 4 legs and a wooden top for building long term builds when not in use for bike it sits out side under a covered roof and is used for my steel cutting machine, or wood cutting table, I also have a steel welding table beside it, so is not only used for bike building, I have built a few bike on it and soon it be used for my Manxman cafe build when I pull my finger out lol.

Ashley
 
I use restoration stands rather like the ones Greg detailed. I use a box to support the engines until they are in the frame. I also make use of adjustable post stands that are sold cheaply in various places. I am using two and a cross pipe to support the front of one of my projects with a third one under the front of the swingarm. They are quite handy as they are adjustable. I also appreciate Greg's use of the engine hoist. Good way to move around heavy bits if they don't have wheels.
 
ilikevelos said:
I use restoration stands rather like the ones Greg detailed. I use a box to support the engines until they are in the frame. I also make use of adjustable post stands that are sold cheaply in various places. I am using two and a cross pipe to support the front of one of my projects with a third one under the front of the swingarm. They are quite handy as they are adjustable. I also appreciate Greg's use of the engine hoist. Good way to move around heavy bits if they don't have wheels.
Click to expand...
I use engine stands (from AN) while building engines and gearbox stands (from AN) while building gearboxes. The engines are completely done including the timing side. I work on both on heavy duty "lazy susan" so it's easy to get to all sides. https://a.co/d/4rJwfLf

Once both are ready, I install them in a prepared cradle with the vernier rear iso installed. I put that "power unit" on its timing side on a 2' x 2' x 3" piece of foam rubber and lower the frame over it and install the front iso and the rear iso bolt. Then stand it up. From there it's easy to tilt it forward, slip a jack under it, and bring it back.

Before I had the engine stands, I used specially made wooden boxes and they worked fine but were nowhere near as convenient.

One caveat. The AN engine stand sides are too short and the low parts between the legs is too high and not wide enough. This means that you can't get to all the bottom fasteners, and you can't have a sump breather installed without raising the stand on blocks. I had new sides made for one stand and I sent the dimensions and picture to AN. I'm expecting them to change the stands in their next production run. When there will be no breather installed in the large sump I use one of the unmodified stands and just make sure the bottom fasteners are torqued before putting the bottom end in the stand.
 
I restored, rebuilt, scratch built, or overhauled over 140 client bikes/engines (plus another 20 of my own) using (2) small roll-around bike jacks with 1/2" plywood sheets bolted to the two "arms", and simply strapped the bikes to the jacks. ALWAYS USED THE SAFETY LATCH after having a slow-leaking cylinder leave a half-done bike on the ground (no harm).

I use a pair of heavy aluminum angle bits slipped over my bench vice to clamp the engine steady till it's time to split the bottom end open, then to hold the bottom end as soon as it's buttoned back up.

POSSIBLY because I'm cheap, but mainly because I never had the luxury of free floor space for a full-sized bike lift, much less TWO of them...

I did have a rolling JetSki rig that I could set two bikes crosswise on, but it took up too much space, so it stayed outdoors.

I paid around $70 for a Triumph engine stand once, used it twice and found it was useless compared to the bench vice. It's For Sale...
 
I do not usually have bikes with folding foot-rests, so the bike usually sits on a stand under the footrests. My mate bought the motorcycle lift table - it is a much better way to go.
 
marshg246 said:
I use engine stands (from AN) while building engines and gearbox stands (from AN) while building gearboxes. The engines are completely done including the timing side. I work on both on heavy duty "lazy susan" so it's easy to get to all sides. https://a.co/d/4rJwfLf

Once both are ready, I install them in a prepared cradle with the vernier rear iso installed. I put that "power unit" on its timing side on a 2' x 2' x 3" piece of foam rubber and lower the frame over it and install the front iso and the rear iso bolt. Then stand it up. From there it's easy to tilt it forward, slip a jack under it, and bring it back.

Before I had the engine stands, I used specially made wooden boxes and they worked fine but were nowhere near as convenient.

One caveat. The AN engine stand sides are too short and the low parts between the legs is too high and not wide enough. This means that you can't get to all the bottom fasteners, and you can't have a sump breather installed without raising the stand on blocks. I had new sides made for one stand and I sent the dimensions and picture to AN. I'm expecting them to change the stands in their next production run. When there will be no breather installed in the large sump I use one of the unmodified stands and just make sure the bottom fasteners are torqued before putting the bottom end in the stand.
Click to expand...
"Lazy Susan" is an idea I will adopt. Purpose built stands are better than wooden boxes but I do not normally do several of the same bike so I have never used these. I like lowering the frame over the drivetrain where possible under the move "the lightest component" theory as well. Can't remember how I did my commando though. I love hearing about peoples garage processes. Best.
 
I have a drawer tool chest, which is on wheels (Halfords 'Advanced' range). The flat top is hip / workbench height. It has a nice thin rubber pad covering the top. Quite sturdy. I put an engine stand on it. Nice height for working and can roll it into space and walk around the engine.
 
Similar to Greg's in concept. Built from materials left over from the construction of a 'garage'. Made in two parts for greater flexibility/portability...except no castors.

One will stand on top of the other for frame only work....this was part of the plan, but I haven't used it that way in 8 years. I have not used my 'workmate' for bike builds since I built this.

1725537169368.jpeg
 
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