stainless rocker feed lines

worntorn · Nov 23, 2014

Les, that dual banjo style feed (also in Jed's photo) gives flexibility in adjustment of location by allowing the angle between the nipples to be set as desired. This is a better arrangement.
Mine was a single banjo type with a built in angle between the nipples. Moving the crossover line behind the head steady also moved the feed line into a poor position.

Glen

DogT · Nov 23, 2014

worntorn said:
Were the original factory supplied lines problematic? I have ordered an original style, made in GB line from Walridge. They also offer Emgo or similar at a lower cost, however like most replacement parts, this isn't an item to scrimp on.
Glen

I made mine up from Nylon 11 better known as 'air brake line' today. Available cheap. Actually the original lines on the 68-69 models were solid steel, I had one and it finally developed a crack and the replacement at the time was the black nylon one. Lasted me until 2010, but without use, and it was quite brittle by then. If you care, you can search my posts and find the post, it's easy to put the line on the banjo, no heat and it looks original if you care for that. Some don't trust it, but I've never had any issues with it and like I say, the price is right.

concours · Nov 23, 2014

kerinorton · Nov 24, 2014

CanukNortonNut said:
+1
They are fine as long as this type of rocker feed line is routed properly. I will add little rubber grommets that fit the id of the rocker feed line and cut thru radial one section from the I.D. to the O.D.. Slide the grommet over the rocker feed line and strategically place these grommets where there may be a possibility for touching. I then get a small zip tie and wrap it on the O.D. groove of the grommet. Nice and tidy. I would have suspected the fuse as well. The fuse should have blown and not melt the wires before blowing.
Regards,
Thomas
CNN

I used fuel hose cut into short lengths for this purpose. It helps all my oil lines, even the supply/return lines have large rubber reinforced tubes over them where they are likely to rub. they look neat where they a re seen as well.
Dereck

Brooking 850 · Nov 24, 2014

Spiral wrap also works, you can wrap several items together, like the oil line and in the case of my race bike, the ignition wiring , then zip tie all (firm not tight) to fittings or engine plates and no rub.
Coil wiring the same up and around the head and after market head steadies if necessary.
There are two common types, soft for internal house wiring, stereo , tv type cabling or the hardier more robust type for external use.
Regards Mike

comnoz · Nov 24, 2014

worntorn said:
I managed to put a hole in the stainless one!
Were the original factory supplied lines problematic? I have ordered an original style, made in GB line from Walridge. They also offer Emgo or similar at a lower cost, however like most replacement parts, this isn't an item to scrimp on.

Glen

Yes, they were problematic. Get stuck in traffic sometime and you will find out. Jim

PS The banjos with the long neck will usually hold out ok when the bike gets a little extra hot.

worntorn · Nov 25, 2014

I'll post a photo of the part when it arrives. I'm hoping that the melting issue has been resolved by now, or
Walridge wouldn't sell these lines.
There are some very good heat resistant synthetic tubing types available for the job today, maybe not so many choices in the 1970s.
I haven't cut this braided line apart yet to see what the inner lining is looks like, however I have similar lines here and those rely on a Teflon like tube to carry the hot oil. The braided stainless gives it some backing, but it also must trap more heat in?

Glen

DogT · Nov 25, 2014

The stuff I got is rated to 200 deg F. But then I never get stuck in traffic either. How hot can the oil get?

Time Warp · Nov 25, 2014

It depends if the oil goes through the spindles and if combined with a oil cooler and mud flap.

comnoz · Nov 25, 2014

DogT said:
The stuff I got is rated to 200 deg F. But then I never get stuck in traffic either. How hot can the oil get?

Well according to the people who make engine bearings the preferred oil temperature is 213 degrees F....A Norton will get there on the highway.

elefantrider · Nov 25, 2014

I never understood the interest of braided line. Replace a good, lightweight factory designed part with a heavier, ugly part which saws through everything it touches. It is interesting to note that you won't find ANY SS exposed braided line on aircraft.

Time Warp · Nov 26, 2014

I would trust a new braided hose over a 40 year old piece of nylon hose any day.

The only reason a braided line creates a problem is shoddy installation.

I got two hose kits directly off Venhill in the UK, the cost of two kits was not that much more than a lot of shops sell for one.
Quick post too.

Sorry I had to come back to this one :lol:
How long does it take a line with a protective outer cover to wear through that cover and then saw away at the hose or item it was allowed to contact, not 5 minutes that is for sure.
Allow a plastic line to be abraded and it to will pinhole fail, all comes back to the basics whatever the preference,

elefantrider · Nov 26, 2014

Wonderful. But when the protective cover of any hose is worn through, they are good for scrap......at least in my industry.
What is the line pressure of these oil lines anyway? I believe we are not talking about huge pressure to require such a hose.

I am sure the new repro nylon replacements are better than the originals. When I tried cutting mine, I found them to be pretty difficult to cut!

Not saying I wouldn't use a Venhill if given to me...... but I would keep a very close watch on it.

DogT · Nov 26, 2014

Well, that 212 is good to know. My 40 year old lines were so brittle they snapped when bending in 2000, certainly wouldn't use 40 year old lines. Same with the fuel lines. The new stuff seems tough, the way I use the bike I doubt I'll change it though. Wonder if anyone other than Jim has had heat trouble, only troubles I've heard of is if they come off, break or wear through for some reason. I never had a problem except with the steel lines which cracked. YPYMYTYC

Nater_Potater · Nov 26, 2014

DogT said:
I made mine up from Nylon 11 better known as 'air brake line' today. Available cheap. Actually the original lines on the 68-69 models were solid steel, I had one and it finally developed a crack and the replacement at the time was the black nylon one. Lasted me until 2010, but without use, and it was quite brittle by then. If you care, you can search my posts and find the post, it's easy to put the line on the banjo, no heat and it looks original if you care for that. Some don't trust it, but I've never had any issues with it and like I say, the price is right.

Did the same on mine in the summer of '13. So far, no issues. That's with combined town, freeway, and extended highway work totalling over 5000 miles at temps ranging from 38'F/3'C to 110'F/43'C. So far, no signs of brittleness at room temp, but, more importantly, no indication of dangerous softening at temp.

Now, I know the lines are only rated for 200'F, but, being as it's for brake lines and a potential law suit waiting to happen, I can only imagine there's a huge margin built in. Does anyone know what the aftermarket replacement lines are made of? They might be the same stuff! Besides, they come in such pretty colors...

Now, I know that their web site says "...where heat is not present...", but I defer to my prior statements.
http://www.gates.com/products/automotiv ... ake-tubing

Hobot · Nov 26, 2014

I love/hate SS braid after trying to mimic craft that really needed them to come to conclusion in my case to only use it for brakes. I was successful with Peel not to grind finishes into base metal nor ruin the SS surfaces but the dang stuff is still to bend and if clear wrapped covering it can pick up road grime to embed and discolor like fuel hose after too short a time in my case. I will keep Trixie factory and Peel with fancy fabric hoses but for the brakes from now on. Ludwig might be able to tell us how much mass saved avoiding the SS but for vital brake improvement. Peels SS got caked with road grime it took solvents and brushe or power wash to clean so want no more of that thank you. I do bleed some everytime I deal with installation but that's common with my mechanicing so not my real issue. This is veiw before bothing with the coloriful AN type end fittings.

worntorn · Nov 26, 2014

Time Warp said:
How long does it take a line with a protective outer cover to wear through that cover and then saw away at the hose or item it was allowed to contact, not 5 minutes that is for sure.
Allow a plastic line to be abraded and it to will pinhole fail, all comes back to the basics whatever the preference,

After awhile the clear plastic layer comes off all on it's own. Then you have a vibrating moveable file running alongside and over your engine, in close proximity to fuel tank etc. In a perfect world, it should never contact anything. My world is not that perfect, at least not with this bike. I should have rewired the bike some time ago, but everything worked well, so the old maxim "if it ain't broke...." was applied.
As with a lot of choices, to each his own on this one. I like the drilled rocker spindle idea a lot.

Glen

Hobot · Nov 26, 2014

Also the SS head hoses are not the best run lengths for easy non fouling routing. As far as nice clean appearances go the factory set lasts longer but not near as sexy so expect ya'll keep the SS hoses refreshed for us. I'm putting a black mark next to names with peeling or abraided or discolored or missing finish alone with those leaving lasting impressions in factory parts.

JimNH · Nov 27, 2014

elefantrider said:
I never understood the interest of braided line. Replace a good, lightweight factory designed part with a heavier, ugly part which saws through everything it touches. It is interesting to note that you won't find ANY exposed braided line on aircraft.

Um, There are plenty on Jet Aircraft, it's just that they are all properly secured. I don't recall seeing any on light planes but even so, lurking just under the cover braid and a thin layer of rubber on an Aeroquip hose is the steel braid reinforcement. If left unsecured it will cut just as well as a SS line.

elefantrider · Nov 27, 2014

JimNH said:
elefantrider said:

I never understood the interest of braided line. Replace a good, lightweight factory designed part with a heavier, ugly part which saws through everything it touches. It is interesting to note that you won't find ANY exposed braided line on aircraft.

Click to expand...

Um, There are plenty on Jet Aircraft, it's just that they are all properly secured. I don't recall seeing any on light planes but even so, lurking just under the cover braid and a thin layer of rubber on an Aeroquip hose is the steel braid reinforcement. If left unsecured it will cut just as well as a SS line.

the keyword is exposed but most have anti chafe or black or brown covers nowadays.

stainless rocker feed lines

worntorn

DogT

concours

kerinorton

Brooking 850

comnoz

worntorn

DogT

Time Warp

.......back to the 70's.

comnoz

elefantrider

Time Warp

.......back to the 70's.

elefantrider

DogT

Nater_Potater

Hobot

worntorn

Hobot

JimNH

elefantrider

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