acadian
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- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,446
What plugs are those - look like NGK Iridiums?
Yes they're iridiums, standard 94 pump fuel
What plugs are those - look like NGK Iridiums?
I have a Triumph engine with a 750 kit and tons of other modifications. I first built it in 1992. I have had two sets of pistons and run about four different compression ratios, using different head gaskets and base gaskets etc. starting at 10.8 :1 then going to 10.5, then 10.2, and now about 9.9. Each time there was a noticeable decrease in power. As the compression ratio went down the engine needed bigger main jets to maintain the correct mixture. I think that with the higher compression ratio there is a more powerful suction created. It is a bit backwards compared with what you would expect. (bigger jets, less power) It still lifts the front wheel just wacking the throttle open in first gear even though it is geared really tall. (with the 10.8 though you had to be carefull not to flip it)
What octane petrol do you run your triumph on?I have a Triumph engine with a 750 kit and tons of other modifications. I first built it in 1992. I have had two sets of pistons and run about four different compression ratios, using different head gaskets and base gaskets etc. starting at 10.8 :1 then going to 10.5, then 10.2, and now about 9.9. Each time there was a noticeable decrease in power. As the compression ratio went down the engine needed bigger main jets to maintain the correct mixture. I think that with the higher compression ratio there is a more powerful suction created. It is a bit backwards compared with what you would expect. (bigger jets, less power) It still lifts the front wheel just wacking the throttle open in first gear even though it is geared really tall. (with the 10.8 though you had to be carefull not to flip it)
FWIW, compression increases are often assumed to increase power considerably more than they actually do. The advantage to increasing compression is that it makes more power across the entire RPM range as opposed to what cams/exhaust/carb changes typically do - make more power at specific rpm range at the expense of power somewhere else in the range. Higher compression is also more fuel efficient.
But within the usual range of street engine compression the actual peak HP change with a compression increase of 2 points - with no other changes - is only around 6%. Frankly, (IMO) that's not enough to bother with considering the cost/effort involved in changing pistons/milling the head/whatever. Typically, of course, other changes are made along with the compression change. Few builders (none?) would build a "performance" engine by taking a stock engine and simply increasing the compression alone. It usually goes along with cam/intake/exhaust/ignition timing changes.
Some modern street engines have as high as 13.5:1 compression but the computer and related mechanical systems ensures optimum fueling, ignition timing, valve timing, induction system volume (air mass, not noise), and exhaust system volume.
We built conventional engines with up to 13.5:1 compression though engines at that level were built for off-road, not street use. Of course, people used them for whatever they wanted to use them for and some of them were used on the street. Frankly about 10 minutes in one of them on the street was more than I needed!
I had the same look on my plugs recently. One of the newish resistor plug caps was normal, and the other tested way high out of range and that side was very rich.
I had happened to also have a problem with the factory float height on the opposite side, and thought that I couldn't get that to come right so was chasing fairies on that instead.
On topic - never assume identical settings for two Amal carbs, but instead fine-tune each as needed. Mind you this was my experience with chopped Monoblocs from a 650ss but I find it applies to all Amals as a rule.
Off topic - I always break a new engine in using a single carb (Amal; Mikuni) and used header pipes. Once everything is rosy, I move to the dual carb and put in my fresh pipes for proper bluing.
After all you've been through with that motor, the nicest thing about those very nice plugs is a complete lack of oil!
They look great to me, I wouldn't mess with it unless the fuel mileage is poor, just enjoy.
If anything , it might be running just a tad rich, which is the safe way.
What is your imp. fuel mileage on a gentle cruise at 60 mph?
If it's below 50 I would try dropping the needles a notch, if above 50 then best as is.
Glen
Timed to 28, no insert.
My TS is wired directly to that RH coil, and then a jumper to the LH coil. Would swapping that jump around have any effect?
finishing with a WOT uphill run when I chopped the ignition.