Solenoid clicks but my Mk3 won't kick over

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My battery (which is kept on a trickle charger) seems plenty strong and the solenoid is clicking when I push the start button, but that's it. This just started happening. Can I suppose it's the solenoid? I have a Boyer Bransden electronic ignition.

Also, before this happened, the bike started vibrating on a ride and came home to discover a motor mount but had come off. Consequently, the bike weeped some oil onto the floor and for the life of me I can't tell where it's coming from.

Thoughts and ideas greatly appreciated.
 
My battery (which is kept on a trickle charger) seems plenty strong and the solenoid is clicking when I push the start button, but that's it. This just started happening. Can I suppose it's the solenoid? I have a Boyer Bransden electronic ignition.

Also, before this happened, the bike started vibrating on a ride and came home to discover a motor mount but had come off. Consequently, the bike weeped some oil onto the floor and for the life of me I can't tell where it's coming from.

Thoughts and ideas greatly appreciated.
Test, don't guess.
Do you have a DMM?
Tell us about your skillset, can you perform basic voltage tests as directed?
 
The solenoid will click even if its not working, the fault is either inside the solenoid or in the high current cabling or the starter. So as @concours says get hold of a multimeter and test.
 
My battery (which is kept on a trickle charger) seems plenty strong and the solenoid is clicking when I push the start button, but that's it. This just started happening. Can I suppose it's the solenoid? I have a Boyer Bransden electronic ignition.

Also, before this happened, the bike started vibrating on a ride and came home to discover a motor mount but had come off. Consequently, the bike weeped some oil onto the floor and for the life of me I can't tell where it's coming from.

Thoughts and ideas greatly appreciated.
Take a hefty chunk of metal and short the two pillar terminals on the solenoid, if the motor spins over, the solenoid is kaput, if not the battery is.
 
came home to discover a motor mount but had come off. Consequently, the bike weeped some oil onto the floor and for the life of me I can't tell where it's coming from.

Thoughts and ideas greatly appreciated.
Describe 'a motor mount had but come off' What was this? Engine bolts come loose? Front or rear of the engine? Or was it the head steady above the cylinderhead? If the solenoid clicks but doesn't turn the engine its usually the battery failing to hold its charge. Don't keep it on a trickle charger, quite often these are responsible for cooking the battery and reducing its ability to turn the engine over.
 
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Suggest original poster send some photos of engine. Post has me worried. ALSO: what is a "DMM" Inquiring minds (who own two multimeters) want to know
 
Try putting bike in gear, rolling it backwards until you feel the engine resistance from compression, then put in neutral and try the starter. This gives the starter an easier run up before it has to turn engine over compression stroke.
How does it start/run on the meat starter (kicker)?

Confirm all heavy cable connections are fresh metal cleaned contacts. Resistence there will diminish power to the already marginally powered electric leg.
 
If OP does get the bike started, important to trace leak and see what is going on with that motor mount. Concerned that there is a crack in the cases
 
Describe 'a motor mount had but come off' What was this? Engine bolts come loose? Front or rear of the engine? Or was it the head steady above the cylinderhead? If the solenoid clicks but doesn't turn the engine its usually the battery failing to hold its charge. Don't keep it on a trickle charger, quite often these are responsible for cooking the battery and reducing its ability to turn the engine over.
Sorry, a motor mount "nut" came off. Spell check needs to be spell checked by me. Re: trickle chargers, everybody I know uses them. Am going to test with multimeter tomorrow but the battery seems strong and has always fired right up. Now, only clicks at solenoid. Doesn't even turn the electric starter at all.
Suggest original poster send some photos of engine. Post has me worried. ALSO: what is a "DMM" Inquiring minds (who own two multimeters) want to know
 
How do I do a load test?
If you don't already have access to one, you'll need to purchase a load tester. I have a very basic one like the unit in the attached photo. It has sorted out several electrical problems for me!
It's just a voltmeter, a switch and a big resistor.
If the battery voltage drops too far when under load then the needle will drop into one of the "weak" zones.
The load tester is nice to have for testing automotive batteries as well.

Solenoid clicks but my Mk3 won't kick over
 
If you don't already have access to one, you'll need to purchase a load tester. I have a very basic one like the unit in the attached photo. It has sorted out several electrical problems for me!
It's just a voltmeter, a switch and a big resistor.
If the battery voltage drops too far when under load then the needle will drop into one of the "weak" zones.
The load tester is nice to have for testing automotive batteries as well.

View attachment 118504
Maybe, but it works just fine and I like to inhale the smoke that comes off after a ten second test! :)
Thanks, that's reasonable
 
Simple test might be to jumper a car battery and see if starter spins and starts engine
If it does, replace your Commando battery
Did the jump test and failed. Not to find a solenoid solution. Andover Norton has one for $50 plus $10 shipping. Can't find any in the US. Anybody have any good suggestions? I've heard some people are using a mini solenoid or other car options with mixed results. And some are using a cheap relay which I know nothing about. Would prefer to stay as stock as possible whenever reasonable. But open to options.
 
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