So There I Was When Suddenly...

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Tornado said:
Yes I was wondering how such a tray can fit my MK2 (not yet an "a" ) as that space looks tight without a tray.

If the side cover cubby was an elasticated material rather than solid, sure would be more functional IMHO.
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I have a Mk3 tray (because I had a Mk3 a long time ago, and the tray was useful) that I bought before I knew there was a Mk1/2 tray. It fits my Mk2 fine. You just have to make sure the flasher unit clip is on the front side of the frame gusset.

L.A.B. said:
The only difference between the Mk1A/Mk2A and Mk3 tray as far as I'm aware is...

...the Mk3 tray has a slot for the seat catch.
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I was wondering if it was for the catch.

Yes, I was just looking at the bottom left of the pic and didnt grok the piece was rotated 180 deg. Duh.
 
So There I Was When Suddenly...
 
I'll try to source one soon. To get past the insane shipping from UK, I've recently asked my local-ish supplier to add an item I wanted from AN to his next resupply order from them. He was more than willing to help me out with that. I'll see if he can add a tray.
 
Tornado said:
I'll try to source one soon. To get past the insane shipping from UK, I've recently asked my local-ish supplier to add an item I wanted from AN to his next resupply order from them. He was more than willing to help me out with that. I'll see if he can add a tray.
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Walridge has 3 of the Mk3 version, which will work fine.
 
Tornado said:
I'll try to source one soon. To get past the insane shipping from UK, I've recently asked my local-ish supplier to add an item I wanted from AN to his next resupply order from them. He was more than willing to help me out with that. I'll see if he can add a tray.
Click to expand...
My supplier stated he use to carry the trays in his stock but had a number of complaints from owners about poor fitment, despite AN claims of being fine. Maybe they have modified shape since then?
 
Tornado said:
My supplier stated he use to carry the trays in his stock but had a number of complaints from owners about poor fitment, despite AN claims of being fine. Maybe they have modified shape since then?
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You do have to squeeze it in a bit, but then it won't come out. No worries.
 
Tornado said:
No lock/spring washers...none shown on parts diagrams AFAIK. Was wondering if these were good idea here. I do run them under the carb to manifold nuts to avoid needing excess torque there, risking carb distortion.
I have a micro ratchet with a hex bit which just fits to make the inner bolts work quite easy. Just not onboard during riding.
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My parts book shows the spring washers…part 11796.
 
Regardless of what the book specifies, it just makes sense to use anti vibration fixtures on these bolts. I've also wondered if the head stud nuts (two forward sleeve nuts and one rear nut) should get lock washers etc as they just butt up against the iron barrel surface per the book.
I got my bike with a single Amal carb, and the 1 to 2 manifold did not have washers under the bolts I suspect b/c the two inner bolts likely could not fit into the bolt recesses with washers in place. Since bolt unwinding there could be disastrous if bolt went into inlet throat, I used locktite.
 
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Spring washers work with both inner bolts been using them for over 40 years on my manifolds just get the right size same no wider than the outside of the heads on the bolts.
 
I have never had that problem with rubber-mounted carburetors. Vibration kills lots of things, unless they are rubber mounted. Also, if the fuel in the float bowl froths, the mixture becomes richer, so the bike becomes slower. The carb only has to touch the frame for that to happen. Production motorcycles are built to a cost, sometimes at the expense of reliability. With a Commando you have a strangely balanced motor and gearbox mounted in a cradle, all bouncing around. When you ride the bike, you don't feel the vibration, but what is the rest doing ?
 
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acotrel said:
I have never had that problem with rubber-mounted carburetors. Vibration kills lots of things, unless they are rubber mounted. Also, if the fuel in the float bowl froths, the mixture becomes richer, so the bike becomes slower. The carb only has to touch the frame for that to happen. Production motorcycles are built to a cost, sometimes at the expense of reliability. With a Commando you have a strangely balanced motor and gearbox mounted in a cradle, all bouncing around. When you ride the bike, you don't feel the vibration, but what is the rest doing ?
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You are right and I think one of the reasons the carbs used to wear so badly. I don't know about the new materials that are now used.

I have never had fuel frothing issues with a Commando probably because I have always used it as a road transport bike.

But on my 500 Dominator race bike it caused me big issues. Manifested by starving and misfiring at high revs. When the bike ran up on the dyno you could place your hand on the carb and the vibration was enormous. Your hand hurt down to the bone and the muscles bruised.

Running on the dyno is very useful in displaying vibration and other mechanical issues as well as tuning the bike.

I had lots of issues curing it. The standard Amal manifold rubbers basically dissolved in the modern fuel and methanol was worse.

In the end I used genuine expensive mikuni mounting rubber manifolds and replaced them about twice a season. You need to make mounting manifolds to suit.
 
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Tornado said:
I have not come up with an acceptable storage option on my Roadster Commando. Been carrying tool set in a backpack. The left side cover has a "cubby hole" but my go to tool set in a soft case just won't fit there. Might try repositioning battery to make space along side it for this case.
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Tornado. If you have the grabrail fitted, you could make a leather tool bag to fit between the back of the seat and the grabrail, with the back of the bag sleeved to slide over the vertical end of the grabrail, secured with 2 leather straps attached to the bag, with the weight resting on the grabrail and mudguard, and 2 leather straps (with buckles) at the front of the bag to secure the top flap. Downside, bag can rub on the mudguard, upside, a touring bag (gearsack, haulmark, ventura, rjays) can be tied down with rope and truckie hitched to the grabrail between the 2 mounting clamps on each side of the grabrail. (sorry, Im not skilled enough to post pictures).
 
I have an army style canvas courier bag, which (before the luggage rack) I held on the pillion section of the seat with a cargo net. Looked fine.
 
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