Slider for TLS query. 1972 750 Commando

Dommie Nator said:

That was one option I thought of before LAB pointed out there are two nuts listed in the parts drawing.

Happy Christmas too.

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I have two of these brakes right at my finger tips.....
Then have LAB tell you where the 2 nuts go? He's correct the past documentation is lacking...
Certainly one for the original (non modified) torque stud, but not two. Where does the other go?
We all make mistakes. This is another occasion where ANIL has made a mistake. Qty should be 1
part-no: 06.0005 LOCKNUT 1/2" UNF
This NOT a lock nut! it is a plain thread and is used as a " jam nut"
But what do I know.....?

dynodave said:

Then have LAB tell you where the 2 nuts go?

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I'm sure I already made it quite clear I was quoting from the parts books.

Dommie Nator said:

I have a possible issue I'd like to resolve.
I was told that my fork slider didn't look right, I forget who told me now, and that the anchor for the brake shoe should not have a big gap between them like mine has. Directly compared to a brand new AN slider my slider is the same.
Have a look at the picture to see what I mean, (ignore the ally spacer that I placed there to fill the gap).
The slider is fully home against the brake plate at the spindle housing.
I'd appreciate any ideas as to what could be wrong or different.

BTW, it's been like that for as long as I have owned it, nearly 5 years.View attachment 20579

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Long story short. You have a fork slider first used in 1939 for a 7'' SLS brake. You need to fit a Commando slider for safety sake. These brakes are too powerful for your early slider, I know mine broke just above the torque point on the fork slider and pelted my rider down the road. The Commando ones are oval and thicker in the front and back direction and much stronger. They also have a wider torque casting so that the torque pin has full engagement.

HiBeem said:

The Commando ones are oval and thicker in the front and back direction and much stronger.

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Commando drum sliders:
FORK SLIDER RH (DRUM BRAKE) ROUND SECTION (06.1352)

"FORK SLIDER LH (DRUM BRAKE PINCH SIDE) ROUND SECTION"

Disc sliders are oval so a LH disc slider can be used with a drum but of course, is the wrong side.

Edit: Drum sliders produced by Andover Norton from the early 80s were also oval section but they went back to producing original round section drum sliders at least five years ago.

marinatlas said:

Roadholder fork widths | Norton Owners Club

www.nortonownersclub.org

may be the brake plate boss is different ??

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It is mixed parts.
The half nut is near up against the anchor lug as standard.

Its all easy to see when you actually own a drum brake Commando.

Edit.
(The slider is easy to check, you will get around an 1/8" of engagement in the anchor slot with a straight edge on the lower boss)

HiBeem said:

Long story short. You have a fork slider first used in 1939 for a 7'' SLS brake. You need to fit a Commando slider for safety sake. These brakes are too powerful for your early slider, I know mine broke just above the torque point on the fork slider and pelted my rider down the road. The Commando ones are oval and thicker in the front and back direction and much stronger. They also have a wider torque casting so that the torque pin has full engagement.

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Thanks for your PM. I have a new oval Andover Norton slider in my hands as I did think it would solve the issue, however the dimensions laterally look exactly the same as the one on the bike.
I was keen to sort the issue as I have some NYC Norton teflon lined bushes coming to pair up with my Landsdowne dampers.
I've just ordered an oval pinch bolt slider and will fit both and go from there.
I think it's a non standard brake plate that is the cause of the issue but I will see better when it's all stripped down.
At worst nothing will change from how it is now.

measurements from 2 TLS brakes

The axle boss is 1.025+/- thick
From the axle boss down to the brake actuator shaft boss is 0.25" +/-

From the axle boss down to the torque stop (stationary brake shoe pin) boss is about .40" +/- Then with the single jam nut you have about 5-1/2 threads exposed for engagement with the slider. I would fully expect your measurement to be 0.5" or a little more from being modified. Until you make this measurement I have nothing more to say.

Thanks for your PM. I have a new oval Andover Norton slider in my hands as I did think it would solve the issue, however the dimensions laterally look exactly the same as the one on the bike.

I was keen to sort the issue as I have some NYC Norton teflon lined bushes coming to pair up with my Landsdowne dampers.
I've just ordered an oval pinch bolt slider and will fit both and go from there.
I think it's a non standard brake plate that is the cause of the issue but I will see better when it's all stripped down.
At worst nothing will change from how it is now.
The slider you want is 060352 the one you appear to have is 030030. Here is the only photo I can find that may help you!

You will notice that the boss where the axle passes through is wider than the one you have. Unfortunately some parts suppliers use a ''standard'' part rather than make two parts. There were not a lot of drum bake Commandos in relation to other drum brake Nortons which used the round fork slider. It may be wise to check the outside diameter of the one you bought from Andover, if it is bigger than the one you have just lace the wheel over into the centre of the forks. Another fix might be to machine the brake plate or axle boss down to allow the backing plate to be nearer the fork slider so that you get full engagement of the torque bolt, then adjust the spokes so that the rim is in the middle of the forks. This is what I did with an old (1946) fork bottom which broke, there was a flaw in the forging that would have contributed to the failure.

HiBeem said:

The slider you want is 060352 the one you appear to have is 030030.

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03-0030 uses different threads for mudguard fixings and drain than the one I have and there's no evidence of a thread change.
As I said, until I can strip it down and do some measurements and comparisons then I won't know for sure.

I won't be able to strip it until I get all the parts needed to make it back into at least a 'roller' as I've limited room and have to be able to move it around to access work tools.

Just to put a fullstop on this thread, as suspected it's a modification or maybe error with the brake plate.
No need to measure anything as it's quite obvious when holding another brake plate up to it.
Thanks for the input...

All sorted, finally.