Depends on what system you are using (computer, phone?). If computer then click where you want to add the link in your reply box, then right click>Paste.I have copied to clipboard but am unsuccessful pasting.
This is a tap device.Depends on what system you are using (computer, phone?). If computer then click where you want to add the link in your reply box, then right click>Paste.
This is a tap device.
Awesome. Thanks L.A.B.For Andriod, once the link has been copied to clipboard, go to the reply box and place your finger on the screen where you want to paste, you should see two options come up (ignore the keyboard if it opens) 'Paste' and 'Select all' then tap 'Paste'.
iPad/iPhone I don't know but I'd guess it would be similar as they're too posh for me.
Circlip is engaged and the bearing is secured.As for the end float on the drum I had so much it was making a grating noise, the circlip that locates the drum bearing had broken and the bearing was free to move. New circlip and sealed bearing restored normal noise levels.
Be sure it's the CORRECT bearing. Original size was hard to find, some made modifications to accept a different size, more readily available one. Perhaps ask the previous owner the history.Circlip is engaged and the bearing is secured.
Just to clarify, it was the 4203 2RS bearing that was unavailable in the 16mm width, not the original 4203 bearing.Be sure it's the CORRECT bearing. Original size was hard to find, some made modifications to accept a different size, more readily available one.
For wheel bearings (front and rear bolt-up type only), I fit a 5203-2RS, which is 1.5 mm wider than the stock 4203. It requires that the spacer between the wheel bearings be machined to accommodate the extra width. Conveniently, the hubs already have the extra depth to receive the wider bearing.Just to clarify, it was the 4203 2RS bearing that was unavailable in the original 16mm width, not the original 4203 open bearing.
I personally have never seen a 4203-2RS bearing, mind you I have not gone looking too hard either.
Am I missing something?? I would love to know.
For the cush drive brake drum, I never considered installing a 5203-2RS, as there would be very little left of the bearing locating lip in the brake drum after machining. Relocating the Circlip groove looked like a non-starter as well, maybe you could split the difference? I did not feel like sacrificing a brake drum to find out. I always just fit a 4203 and the felt seals.
The above statement would indicate that the bearing is actually a 5203-2RS - .055"-.056" is approximately 1.5 mm."Please note: On the rear brake drum/sprocket (06-2764) and the MK3 rear sprocket (06-6011) the bearing bore will have to be machined at least an additional .055" deep to accept the sealed bearing. The dummy axle (06-2067 Pre-MK3 or 06-5552 MK3) will have to be turned down .056" like the front hub spacer, discribed later. Since this requires a bit more work it will not be covered in this article."
I am going to talk to Mike at Walridge. A 4203-2RS would definitely be convenient, so long as the bearing load capacity has not been compromised in the making room for the seals