- Joined
- Jul 25, 2010
- Messages
- 5,867
First you need to see if it rattles , then you have to start smokeing rolls ! . 
RIGHT .
the stupid auto advance mechanism , FIRST . as first things first etc .
if it aint right , the silly contact breakers have no chance . SO one removes the A. A. Assy .
Theres a few shafts 7 bores that go over the shafts , for the bob weights , AND the Points Cam .
these all need to be clean like a babys bottom , so theres no rash . So are best cleaned in petrol or solvent.
Inspect the inside of the points cam to see it ungunged . Theres a REBATE there omewhere , To Hold the GREASE .
as being mechanical , its greased .
BUT , dry - you check the fit for SLACK . Radially . If theres more than two thou slack , its slack & wobly and unsatisfactory .
If theres five thou slack , its slack & wobbly and Most unsatisfactory . A BSA A65 ( & Id think A50 & A 70 ) Auto Adv. is 15 Degree .
Rather than 12 , so you get more RETARD , and a 500 rpm idle - if its necesary to bin it .
Checking the actions of ea. part individually , the bob weights should move freely , as should the main shaft / points cam .
No sticking or binding from burrs or galls. Or bent Shafts . So one gets a square and checks that alls square & true .
While your there , twiddling the bit it plugs into should tell you if theres a iota of rotary free play - which means the timing chains right ,
a mile of turn and the timing chains fallen off , on the way out , or needs adjusting .
While were at it , At the POINTS SETTING STAGE , We allways rotate Forward , or if you must back further then forward . So the take up is as it is running . Top Run Tensioned .
Now we can get nasty with the points . to Clean the faces , with a stone or wet & dry , you REMOVE THEM . So you get the face dead square and true etc . Then washem in solvent .
once youve done the square and true bit , unless a babboons been at it theyre unlikely to bend unless youve got a foul temper and a hammer .
The whole points plate , points mounting shafts etc is checked flat true square clean and burr free . A Hammer to flatten , a fine file to deburr . a flat face to hit it on , and a square
to see the shafts perpendicular . under good light . Whole trip should take a few hours if your going to enjoy it and have a cup of tea between steps to focus the focus . under good light .
Sit in the shade for the tea though.
Theres a silly wick there somewhere to . Bit archaic - but its for a drop of oil - which if you dismantle it occasionallys supurflous . BUT one GREASES the shafts . New horrible white nylon
points heals , an one smears the cam with grease , and whipes it so theres just residue. AND uses a tooth pick or match to pot a light bead along the heal . AFTER its run you just leave
a trace . If its dry new itll heat & evaporate . It must be greased to ' run in ' & harden the heal at the cam , and not run totally dry . Damp in theres adverse if its been bucketing down
or youve been through a river .
Now Where rthe Ciggarette Papers , tear / cut a 1/4 in. strip . Between the contacts if there shut its stuck . This get it as accurate as a strobe if your any good . You check it with that when youve finished
and itll tell you the rpms / advance . I ran 31 as I dont like hondas , but if your an old woman you can run 28 so it wont tryn throw you . MORE IMPORTANT is BOTH are EXACTLY the same 1/100th of a degree
which is accurate enough for mortals .
Therefore you set Ea point at 16 thou gap or watever it is . Rohan'l have a fit and say its twelve . But Whats important is the dwell .
THEN you get the ' turn ' right so with the crank at the right position , as you push the advance ( cam ) forward / thru Stationary
with say a screwsriver on a hard bit out , as it clicks on the stop , the paper s just come free . Not Before .
So its pretty basic , but not a 5 minute job . Magneto Twin takes 45 minutes if the points have been extracted & Faced . The 5 minute wankers bikes run like bandy legged girls .
The Contact Breaker Faces MUST be ' Flat ' together when closed . A tweak with needle nose plyers or somesuch etc & so on if necessary .
IF one contact breaker face blackend pitts or burns , the capacitor doesnt match the coil or V c V . Corectly Matched the points last well ,
and STAY SET .
Though lucas coils are a big joke unless theyre the sports coils . A BLUE and WHITE Spark of 1/2 inch is adequate . Less is NOT .
Lifting & dropping a point gets a free spark with the ignition on . If your not in some rowdy crowded cess pit , Turning the cam
with the ignition on and the crank set gets a AUDABLE SPARK , which you can fine tune to ' spot on ' STATIC .
precission in crank position gets precission in spark / degrees . If your slack its slack and the Hondas'll Get You .
Dont leave the papper in the points , or a bit of paper , or grit from sandpaer or elsewhere . If you KEEP IT CLEAN there wont be grit in there to wear it out either .
running it in the dark with the cover off after youve had the ciggarette should be far out too , and show if theres in leaks or shorts . one free strand on a Ign. Wire in there
is enough to upset the appkecart . So inspect the wires & if theyre F*ked , redo or redo the ends and resolder too .
To see if the coils are garbage , a free plug and a wire touched to earth should get a good spark . Matched by induced from points if that systens sound too . then she'll fly .
RIGHT .
the stupid auto advance mechanism , FIRST . as first things first etc .
if it aint right , the silly contact breakers have no chance . SO one removes the A. A. Assy .
Theres a few shafts 7 bores that go over the shafts , for the bob weights , AND the Points Cam .
these all need to be clean like a babys bottom , so theres no rash . So are best cleaned in petrol or solvent.
Inspect the inside of the points cam to see it ungunged . Theres a REBATE there omewhere , To Hold the GREASE .
as being mechanical , its greased .
BUT , dry - you check the fit for SLACK . Radially . If theres more than two thou slack , its slack & wobly and unsatisfactory .
If theres five thou slack , its slack & wobbly and Most unsatisfactory . A BSA A65 ( & Id think A50 & A 70 ) Auto Adv. is 15 Degree .
Rather than 12 , so you get more RETARD , and a 500 rpm idle - if its necesary to bin it .
Checking the actions of ea. part individually , the bob weights should move freely , as should the main shaft / points cam .
No sticking or binding from burrs or galls. Or bent Shafts . So one gets a square and checks that alls square & true .
While your there , twiddling the bit it plugs into should tell you if theres a iota of rotary free play - which means the timing chains right ,
a mile of turn and the timing chains fallen off , on the way out , or needs adjusting .
While were at it , At the POINTS SETTING STAGE , We allways rotate Forward , or if you must back further then forward . So the take up is as it is running . Top Run Tensioned .
Now we can get nasty with the points . to Clean the faces , with a stone or wet & dry , you REMOVE THEM . So you get the face dead square and true etc . Then washem in solvent .
once youve done the square and true bit , unless a babboons been at it theyre unlikely to bend unless youve got a foul temper and a hammer .
The whole points plate , points mounting shafts etc is checked flat true square clean and burr free . A Hammer to flatten , a fine file to deburr . a flat face to hit it on , and a square
to see the shafts perpendicular . under good light . Whole trip should take a few hours if your going to enjoy it and have a cup of tea between steps to focus the focus . under good light .
Sit in the shade for the tea though.
Theres a silly wick there somewhere to . Bit archaic - but its for a drop of oil - which if you dismantle it occasionallys supurflous . BUT one GREASES the shafts . New horrible white nylon
points heals , an one smears the cam with grease , and whipes it so theres just residue. AND uses a tooth pick or match to pot a light bead along the heal . AFTER its run you just leave
a trace . If its dry new itll heat & evaporate . It must be greased to ' run in ' & harden the heal at the cam , and not run totally dry . Damp in theres adverse if its been bucketing down
or youve been through a river .
Now Where rthe Ciggarette Papers , tear / cut a 1/4 in. strip . Between the contacts if there shut its stuck . This get it as accurate as a strobe if your any good . You check it with that when youve finished
and itll tell you the rpms / advance . I ran 31 as I dont like hondas , but if your an old woman you can run 28 so it wont tryn throw you . MORE IMPORTANT is BOTH are EXACTLY the same 1/100th of a degree
which is accurate enough for mortals .
Therefore you set Ea point at 16 thou gap or watever it is . Rohan'l have a fit and say its twelve . But Whats important is the dwell .
THEN you get the ' turn ' right so with the crank at the right position , as you push the advance ( cam ) forward / thru Stationary
with say a screwsriver on a hard bit out , as it clicks on the stop , the paper s just come free . Not Before .
So its pretty basic , but not a 5 minute job . Magneto Twin takes 45 minutes if the points have been extracted & Faced . The 5 minute wankers bikes run like bandy legged girls .
The Contact Breaker Faces MUST be ' Flat ' together when closed . A tweak with needle nose plyers or somesuch etc & so on if necessary .
IF one contact breaker face blackend pitts or burns , the capacitor doesnt match the coil or V c V . Corectly Matched the points last well ,
and STAY SET .
Though lucas coils are a big joke unless theyre the sports coils . A BLUE and WHITE Spark of 1/2 inch is adequate . Less is NOT .
Lifting & dropping a point gets a free spark with the ignition on . If your not in some rowdy crowded cess pit , Turning the cam
with the ignition on and the crank set gets a AUDABLE SPARK , which you can fine tune to ' spot on ' STATIC .
precission in crank position gets precission in spark / degrees . If your slack its slack and the Hondas'll Get You .
Dont leave the papper in the points , or a bit of paper , or grit from sandpaer or elsewhere . If you KEEP IT CLEAN there wont be grit in there to wear it out either .
running it in the dark with the cover off after youve had the ciggarette should be far out too , and show if theres in leaks or shorts . one free strand on a Ign. Wire in there
is enough to upset the appkecart . So inspect the wires & if theyre F*ked , redo or redo the ends and resolder too .
To see if the coils are garbage , a free plug and a wire touched to earth should get a good spark . Matched by induced from points if that systens sound too . then she'll fly .
