Riveted shoes vs bonded, and vent blanking plates

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I suggest that short rear brake shoe life is more likely due to those who have not adjusted pedal to boot throw correctly and are, in essence, riding the the brake bring the shoes closer to their fade point and cooking the cush drive inserts; sound familiar?

To my knowledge the rear brake is aboard to facilitate stopping on hills so that the rider has a free throttle hand. At speed when hard braking is required the rear brake keeps the rear from passing the front; it is also very useful at low speeds when the throttle needs to be operated with finesse such as in parking lots (car parks). In virtually all cases rear brake shoe compound is very close to irelevelant, long as it isn't made in a large asian country out of horse shit.

Bonded or riveted ? Up to you. Just don't ride the rear brake!

Best!?
 
The Andover ones look remarkably a lot like the Emgo ones.
Do they work well?



Are RGM, Ferrodo, better stopping options?

I can have my my stock shoes drilled out and put new lining on, but will probably cost as much if not more. Could be more interesting if I do many sets at a time.
Emgo's work well.
 
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I recently rode a friend's Norton to his house about 1.5 hour away. He has a DLS which works much better than mine in the Atlas. We put in new shoes off the shelf, probably AN, and that was it. No arcing. At 70 on the freeway it responded very well to a good squeeze at the lever without using the rear brake. He has the stiffening plate and the brake plate mod at the axle hole same as mine. Both have been carefully adjusted. My brake feels spongey and his feels secure like it should. One difference is that the actuating levers on his brake plate at full squeeze do not pass the 90 degree mark, in fact well short of it. I am guessing 80 degrees. Mine stop at 90 or 95 degrees. (I am estimating here) And I have already flipped my levers over to achieve a better angle. He also has a new brake plate if that makes a difference..
 
I went with relining my original shoes. Should get them back in about 2 weeks, and installed on the bike for November. Out of the various lining materials offered, I went with the Ferotec 3920. A bit higher friction coefficient than MZ Gold.

Glued on and baked, no rivets.

Today's glue I'm told is very strong, and rivets reduce the life of the shoe by about half and run the risk gouging into the drum. Not a problem for the rear drum which is a consumable but certainly for the front.
The reason I rivet is for security in case the lining comes off. It has happened to me and at least one friend.

These were standard bonded shoes bought from a known dealer.

The problem happens if the bike is stored in damp conditions. Over time the glue delaminates from the shoe.
 
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The reason I rivet is for security in case the lining comes off. It has happened to me and at least one friend.

These were standard bonded shoes bought from a known dealer.

The problem happens if the bike is stored in damp conditions. Over time the glue delaminates from the shoe.
I have had this happen
 
Received my shoes back relined with 3920 high coefficient semi-metallic material. Looking forward to testing.

Riveted shoes vs bonded, and vent blanking plates
 
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