Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb

Proper "superblend" transmission layshaft inner bearing. Now re-assembly can continue (after swapping it out)

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb
 
Handy trick for tightening & loosening sprocket nuts, just wrap a section of chain around your sprocket and clamp it in a vise. If unit construction engine, such as Triumph, or on the bike, either leave chain on, or wrap a section of chain on the sprocket and clamp it with vice grip pliers.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb


Correct F.A.G. transmission layshaft superblend bearing in place FINALLY.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb


Transmission done, bottom end bolted in place.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb


Now it'll be picking up steam...
 
2 little chunks of light guage aluminum angle to hold the pistons steady, a good set of ring compressors, and the hardest task left is to remove the compressor bands once the cylinders are past all the rings. It's tight in there.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb


Pistons & cylinders done.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb
 
That chain trick-known to cyclists quite well for removing rear cassettes.

Can't you just compress the rings with your fingers?
 
Cycle Goon said:
Can't you just compress the rings with your fingers?
Click to expand...
First time I tried that, many years ago, I broke a ring. Then I bought these ring compressors and enjoy them quite well.
 
Head installed. Very easy when there are no coils in the way, no tricks needed, just tip it like it shows in the manual. Only one pushrod didn't have a rocker in it's cup, took 10 seconds with a flashlight and I was done. Assembly and install in 1-1/2 hours from a bare head.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb
 
Well done. I'm envious of your tenacity, and nicer weather in than we are having in the Midwest US these days.

What method do you use to install the head gasket?
 
Cycle Goon said:
That chain trick-known to cyclists quite well for removing rear cassettes.

Can't you just compress the rings with your fingers?
Click to expand...

Properly-sized stainless hose clamps can serve as ring compressors if the dedicated tools aren't available.
 
Great job - though a couple of questions if I might...
1. What type of washer is that under the nut on the top, rear crankcase stud? It looks like one of those serrated, anti-shake washers!
2. Having never installed a Norton twin barrel, and being about to do so... How do you support the barrel whilst installing the barrel washers & nuts without destroying the bead of gasket goo? Norton's excellent design feature of not being able to put nuts on when barrel is down is a commendable feature!!!. I intend using Loctite 518 (for ally-iron flanges, w/o gasket) so don't want to disturb the bead too much.
Cheers
Rob
 
robs ss said:
Great job - though a couple of questions if I might...
1. What type of washer is that under the nut on the top, rear crankcase stud? It looks like one of those serrated, anti-shake washers!
2. How do you support the barrel whilst installing the barrel washers & nuts without destroying the bead of gasket goo?
Click to expand...

1- Serrated lock washers as shown on the parts illustration for #33 rear and #30 front top crankcase stud nuts.

2 - On an 850 it's much easier than a 750. Leaving the pistons up the stroke a bit and not lowering the cylinders fully, you squeeze the nuts in and work them in a bit at a time.
 
The drawing does show what looks like a serrated spring washer, but, according to their web site, what you get from AN for those part numbers is a plain washer...
 
Fast Eddie said:
The drawing does show what looks like a serrated spring washer, but, according to their web site, what you get from AN for those part numbers is a plain washer...
Click to expand...
As it turns out, it has to come off to install the main Battery ground cable there anyway.
 
Robs,
There is an alternative way to installing the barrel. Install the rings. Put the inner circlip in each piston. With the barrel upside down on the bench use either a ring compressor or your fingers to put the pistons into the barrel with the pin opening exposed. Put some wood blocks on the top of the cases. Set the rods at tdc. Slide the barrel and pistons over the rods. Install the grudgeon pins, have them in the freezer and use a heat gun on the pistons if needed. Add the outer circlips. Lower the block most of the way and install the nuts. Drop the block the rest of the way tightening down the nuts.
Htown
 
Installed and adjusted the head steady spring to 1.5" extended length. What this does is counter the bulk of the weight of the engine, so that the rubber buffers in the front and rear isolastics don't sag, and the top buffers don't split and fail so easily.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb


Looking like a bike now.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb


I started to install the primary system and can't find the original clutch location circlip anywhere; also can't find a bloody spare, although I KNOW it will turn up the day after the new replacement arrives... Went ahead and installed the wiring harness; I've got some refurb work to do on the left side switch cluster to recover the male pins that had wires soldered to them.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb


Test-fitting my set of flat slike Kehin CVs, and what do you know? THEY FIT! I though the rear frame web was going to need to be modified, or the velocity stacks shortened, to work with a Commando. Easier than I thought, and now I'll maybe try them on my Interstate.

Ricks '75 MkIII Roadster resto/furb
 
Ok, thank you. I keep re-reading Fred Eaton's assembly instructions, but can't find anything about the fit of the lay shaft into the bearing inner race. I'm assuming it should be a slip fit, but mine won't go in, even after freezing the shaft. I should reduce the shaft dia. with emery paper, correct? (Sorry if this is considered thread hijacking)
Bill
 
With the layshaft polished clean with 0000 steel wool, mine was a hard push fit (not pressed).

Sure makes dismantling the gearbox easier!
 
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