RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

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CanukNortonNut said:
Swoochdave
Keith is right. You need the cir-clip then the 1/8th recess spacer 06-747 and you might also need some shims: 06-0894 or 06-0895.
They are 0.036" and 0.048" thick. I bought a pair of each just to make sure.
I am doing the same thing that you are with a belt drive except I got mine from Clubman’s. I also had the clearance issues at the inner primary and used two 06-0894 shims to get it to not scrub the inner case. BTW 06-0665 is the shim for the rotor and it is the same ID/OD @ 0.010” as the Clutch side if you want to fine tune it.... FYI. 8)

Regards
CNN

Which circlip?

Is this not the right circlip?

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide


Can you post pictures of your setup? Especially the spacing of the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft.
 
Dave
No!
The 06-0752 "Clutch Location Circlip". This lives on the Main shaft. If you look at the Main shaft where it comes out on your previous pictures… where you comment “ You can see that the Belt sits off the basket by about an 1/8” “ you will see the groove in the Main shaft where the clip lives. this groove, has the circlip … then the spacer with the recess… and then the shims if needed.
Cheers
I‘ll try to send a pic.
CNN
RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide


here you go.
 
Ok, got it. Thanks.

If you have a chance can you take more pictures of the assembly? I'm still concerned that my front pulley is too close to the engine, so if you can get that measurement it would be great. Also the back of your clutch basket like the picture I took. Thanks!
 
Dave, note that the thick spacer has an inner recess on it's backside that the circlip just slips into. That keeps the circlip in check.
 
grandpaul said:
Dave, note that the thick spacer has an inner recess on it's backside that the circlip just slips into. That keeps the circlip in check.

I think I learn from some earlier tests that the clutch is actually pulled towards the end of the mainshaft by the clutch spring when it's pulled in. Which means the clirclip is not under tremendous load unless you crank down on the clutch nut too much.

I'll get my order in with Old Britts today but they won't be back for a couple days. So maybe next week I might see the parts and can take a crack at putting this all together.
 
Ok, this is done now. Again, as I told you many times, my guides are to show you how to make mistakes and how to fix them. At least that's my theory.

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

You can kind of see the circlip here.

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

The spacer, note the recess on one side, this goes against the circlip.

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

Spacer in place. I had the shims but didn't need them.

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

If you remember previously I was complaining about the belt riding too far too the inside. Well, we put it together and had the same problem. I knew I had the spacer on the top gearbox mount but then realized (in a "doh!" moment) that I had the spacer on THE WRONG SIDE. That top spacer goes on the primary side! Once it was moved everything lined up perfectly.

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

Test fit. Even with the transmission in the correct location the cluch basket still hit the inner primary case. Two choices, I could either grind down the screws on the basket or I could take down the ridge in the soft aluminum.

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

I went for the soft aluminum. Disc sandpaper in the angle die grinder and it was taken care of in a couple minutes. Just knocked it down at the 11 and 7 o'clock positions.

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

Front pulley showing the spacer.

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

Alternator with nice even gap all the way around.

RGM Belt Illustrated Install Guide

And done. Clutch adjusted for easy one finger operation.


Lastly, video, because I care...

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PgGnyPvOSQ[/video]

Phew. All in all a great kit for the price. I don't like the screws on the back of the basket. I would have preferred if they had used countersunk ones. I'll need to replace the clutch center at some point. Old Britts had them for $150 or even more tempting is an alloy one for $175. Hmmm...
 
Hi

Do you all run your belts that loose?
Seems to much to me, but what are your experience guys?
I have have a Hayward belt drive, but think the RGM is lmost the same setup.

Regards
Henrik
 
Lucky said:
Hi

Do you all run your belts that loose?
Seems to much to me, but what are your experience guys?
I have have a Hayward belt drive, but think the RGM is lmost the same setup.

Regards
Henrik

All Commando beltdrive-kits require 3/4" - 1" total up and down movement (cold engine).
 
nortonspeed said:
Lucky said:
Hi

Do you all run your belts that loose?
Seems to much to me, but what are your experience guys?
I have have a Hayward belt drive, but think the RGM is lmost the same setup.

Regards
Henrik

All Commando beltdrive-kits require 3/4" - 1" total up and down movement (cold engine).


I went for trying to turn the bottom run 90º. It snugged up a little after everything was together. I may need to dip in the case again once I have the final drive chain adjustment to make sure it hasn't pulled the belt tighter.
 
Dave,
The bike is really coming together. Good job!

So what are we looking at in the background that says "Nortorious"? Another good tee?

Speaking of tee-shirts...

Russ
 
rvich said:
So what are we looking at in the background that says "Nortorious"? Another good tee?

Russ

Ella sent me the postcard for the Lumby rally in one of the orders. I propped it up in the battery tray as inspiration. :mrgreen:
 
swooshdave said:
rvich said:
So what are we looking at in the background that says "Nortorious"? Another good tee?

Russ

Ella sent me the postcard for the Lumby rally in one of the orders. I propped it up in the battery tray as inspiration. :mrgreen:

That's hilarious, as I thought maybe it was on the wall behind the bike, I couldn't quite get the perspective to work when I looked at it. It would make a great shirt, it should go on the list.
 
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