RGM Belt Drive

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Decided to attempt to sort out my 850 MK1a Commando during the current enforced lock down period - it was a basket case rebuild.
Fitted with an RGM belt drive which was purchased about 15 years or so ago - I lost interest in the rebuild for a long time. In total it’s done about 100 miles shakedown last autumn, all went reasonably well with the exception of the clutch action - not disengaging properly causing drag and obviously the inability to select neutral at a stand. Today stripped, inspected and compared to the original triplex clutch drum.

1. Original clutch centre is probably more notched than it should be so trashed and a new one ordered, I should have done that in the first place.

2. Measured the clutch plate stack height having read the many threads (standard sintered plate set up) 1.177” in total - so should be OK.

3. The spring retaining circlip is a tight fit in the RGM drum when installing with plates and spring in position, the clutch spring compressor has to be under much more tension than when fitting to standard set up. The circlip groove is approx. 0.030” further into the drum when measured against the riveted/screwed back plate, also the toothed area in the drum stands prouder by a similar amount further exasperating the problem. To sort the former problem, I can either get 0.030” machined off the under surface of the thick plain plate, or preferably off the bolted (drum) plain plate. To machine material off the drum to reduce the height of the toothed area is more involved and will break into the anodising and cause other problems? Nor do I have access to the tooling to do either so further expense to boot.
Has anyone else experienced similar problems with an RGM belt drive? Normally I would have gone back to RGM direct, but I have had it so long now I doubt they would be interested.
Any help would be appreciated, otherwise I’m going back to the original setup.
 
There were two different thickness diaphragm springs made for the Norton. The RGM clutch drum was obviously made for the thin early 750 diaphragm.

It's usually easiest to widen the snap ring groove by about .040. Then you can get the clutch pack height correct to make for good clutch action.

It's not unusual to need to remove some material from the back of the crankshaft sprocket to get clearance to the crankcase. It depends on the case machining.

The RGM belt setup definitely requires more "fettling" to make it fit, but I do prefer the oil proof belt over the other belts.
 
If you think the parts are wrong I would phone up Roger at RGM, always found him straight as a die and helpful not like the other Midlands outfit
 
Fitted a RGM belt drive kit several years ago, it fitted without any problem and still works fine.
 
Just rode up to Telluride today with the 72 that has a RGM belt drive that's now 12 years old. How long do you guys go before changing them out? Not a ton of miles more worried about age.
 
For a time the speedo didn't work, now shows 3,300 or so. So I really don't know how many. 6,000 maybe.
 
i have a norvil belt on mine i replaced the belt after 45,000 miles but it still had some life in it but it was needed as it had a fair amount of tooth wear.
 
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