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Restoration adding modifications, butchery or?
- Thread starter madass140
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My thought on this subject is why not do everything reasonably possible to make the bike work better while staying mindful of the overall original appearance and character.
On character, a friend modified his 69 750 with lightened valve train, 11 to one cr, porting,hot cam and lightened race crank. He now has a bike that requires avgas, tends to stall out when the light turns green, and has lost most of its midrange punch.
It does go like a Banshee once the revs finally get up there, but this is of little use for a road bike, maybe not even for a race bike on most courses. He told me the other day that he now realizes what an expensive mistake it was to try to modify his Commando in this way.
"When I get on my brother's 850(stocker) and feel the torque I think, What have I done?"
On character, a friend modified his 69 750 with lightened valve train, 11 to one cr, porting,hot cam and lightened race crank. He now has a bike that requires avgas, tends to stall out when the light turns green, and has lost most of its midrange punch.
It does go like a Banshee once the revs finally get up there, but this is of little use for a road bike, maybe not even for a race bike on most courses. He told me the other day that he now realizes what an expensive mistake it was to try to modify his Commando in this way.
"When I get on my brother's 850(stocker) and feel the torque I think, What have I done?"
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Think i'll try grandpauls way, sounds a whole lot easier.
cNw
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Hey,
So there is a lot of stuff going on in this thread but I am posting just to make sure the installation of the Comstock breather is clear.
- The std breather mod, will need the cases to be machined in order to be installed. This would be the 1969-71 and the 1973-75.
- The breather mod for the 1972 model (with the pre-existing breather on the lower back side) can be installed without removing anything other than whats there already. I dont know where 'lifting' information came from, but its not needed. Its tight for sure, but we have a lot of them installed with great results.
- Then of course, there is a new development from Jim that replaces the large sump plug with a very cool breather assembly. This is a very simple install but you need to ensure you have a large sump drain in order to use this set-up.
In all of the above appliactions the breather will work better if the holes going into the timing cavity are plugged. If installing the -72 model breather, then you may not want to do the timing chest blocking (if the engine is all together), and it will still work great, just not 100%.
Matt / Colorado Norton Works
So there is a lot of stuff going on in this thread but I am posting just to make sure the installation of the Comstock breather is clear.
- The std breather mod, will need the cases to be machined in order to be installed. This would be the 1969-71 and the 1973-75.
- The breather mod for the 1972 model (with the pre-existing breather on the lower back side) can be installed without removing anything other than whats there already. I dont know where 'lifting' information came from, but its not needed. Its tight for sure, but we have a lot of them installed with great results.
- Then of course, there is a new development from Jim that replaces the large sump plug with a very cool breather assembly. This is a very simple install but you need to ensure you have a large sump drain in order to use this set-up.
In all of the above appliactions the breather will work better if the holes going into the timing cavity are plugged. If installing the -72 model breather, then you may not want to do the timing chest blocking (if the engine is all together), and it will still work great, just not 100%.
Matt / Colorado Norton Works
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But its allready been ' fixed up ' . 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-NOR ... 4ab2ca8e3a
Anything would have to be an improvement , restoration bordering on insanity , unless you had a Commando parts tree .
Candidate for a F/B project nonetheless .Hopefully .
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-NOR ... 4ab2ca8e3a
Anything would have to be an improvement , restoration bordering on insanity , unless you had a Commando parts tree .
Candidate for a F/B project nonetheless .Hopefully .
Matt Spencer said:
Erm, that thing looks slightly better and more complete than my "Rotten commandos". :shock: I'm in for the "Most improved 202x"! with "x" approaching 10. :wink:
I don't have a parts tree - I just know where Joe lives (but unfortunately he still demands payment when I need parts. Cheeky huckster .... :mrgreen: )
Tim
grandpaul
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bill said:
Well, I admit it.
I just know I couldn't get one off without moving a bunch of stuff and loosening it to BARELY manage to get the 2 bolts off and back on.
Now, I have seen the only pictures available of the CNW breather kit, and it has FOUR bolts; so, not sure how that's all done unless the inner plate is held on by 2 bolts, and the rest of the kit bolts onto that?
Bill, you still didn't say how YOU did it, if you ever actually have installed one...
grandpaul
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Tintin said:
I have personally NEVER used the word "butchery" in ANY reference to any modification, by anyone, on a Commando or any other bike other than perhaps this one-
Truth be told, it was BADLY ABUSED, but not "butchered" which would imply no chance of return to some semblance of normalcy. Here's the proof-
So, for the original poster, all is not lost, nor will it be, if you do some mods that many others have done with very good results.
it is a sad attempt to fix a problem and creates another one. as long as this has been perpetuated on the web SOME take it as gospel. you still have a LARGE hole with NO type of filtration to stop trash from reaching the oil pump, you have removed the weir so you no longer have the protection from the crank trying to force oil up the original breather hole. I will say it again GP YOUR QUOTE "that's is good enough for me" just helps make my point you should NOT be charging VICTIMS for you work and profess to be a professional!!!!!
grandpaul said:
I will let Dyno Dave answer this one as he has a LARGE hand in the new one that is in the works, BUT I have a feeling that is one of the changes that will be in the new edition.
you can call it negative BUT EVERY THING I have stated is FACT as to the result. IT does work BUT there have been improvements as to how to accomplish this but a FEW on here REFUSE to advance with the times!!!!
you can call it negative BUT EVERY THING I have stated is FACT as to the result. IT does work BUT there have been improvements as to how to accomplish this but a FEW on here REFUSE to advance with the times!!!!
grandpaul said:
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There's a gal on list that told me she could get to the Combat breather bolts when i couldn't. Even if I could its be so injury prone strain and swearing I now remove cradle bolts to lift engine, which ugh must be done to get tranny out as breather fouls the forward tip of shell to clear cradle.
I'm pleased the reed valves measured to works, prior attempts had found them un-responsive as hi rpms.
You can't completely plug off the TS case as there's an oil drain and feed needed to establish oil level for chain/cogs. 1/4" size not much to bother about with oil in the way too.
I'm pleased the reed valves measured to works, prior attempts had found them un-responsive as hi rpms.
You can't completely plug off the TS case as there's an oil drain and feed needed to establish oil level for chain/cogs. 1/4" size not much to bother about with oil in the way too.
Damn the torpedos, GP.
If I may expound on hobots comment, Blank this one off too, ya goobers, and see how long it lasts. And if I may add, if you don't blank ALL of the TC off, then what is the point. That way is big enough to nullify any vacuum that you believe you have attained.
I think the thought here should be to relieve pressure. There are many solutions and maybe too many opinions to keep focus.
I will warn you all right now that i am not affraid to take this debate to a hole new level. :mrgreen:
Just to be clear, this is the set of case that got replaced (un reinforces, blown out spindle bore, stripped drain plug, etc. Not Comat material.)
If I may expound on hobots comment, Blank this one off too, ya goobers, and see how long it lasts. And if I may add, if you don't blank ALL of the TC off, then what is the point. That way is big enough to nullify any vacuum that you believe you have attained.
I think the thought here should be to relieve pressure. There are many solutions and maybe too many opinions to keep focus.
I will warn you all right now that i am not affraid to take this debate to a hole new level. :mrgreen:
Just to be clear, this is the set of case that got replaced (un reinforces, blown out spindle bore, stripped drain plug, etc. Not Comat material.)
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