Repairing/Replacing Lucas Switch Internals

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Anvill

Anvill

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Hello,

I have another question as I’m wrapping up my MKIII refurbish. The handlebar switches were in really rough shape when I got the bike, packed with crud and corrosion. I was able to clean both units and replace springs, ball bearings, and contact points as needed, save for one part. The turn signal slider on the left cluster has a nasty crack in the pressed spring steel about 2/3 of the way through. It technically still works as a switch but doesn’t click in place as it should and I’m afraid is not up to the rigors of actual use.

The component itself isn’t offered new anywhere to my knowledge and I’m sure its next to impossible to track down an original as most used clusters I’ve seen on eBay tend to be missing their internals. Being stamped spring steel I don’t have any ideas for fixing the existing part or fabricating one from scratch. But I’d really hate to buy a whole new (very expensive) cluster for one bit of metal.

So I thought I’d reach out here to ask if anyone has had this issue before and figured out a clever replacement or substitute part that can be used? Picture of the part below. I guess I didn’t get a pic of the broken one, but this is the same component from the right cluster, which was thankfully still intact.

Repairing/Replacing Lucas Switch Internals


Thanks guys,
Anthony
 
Anvill said:
The component itself isn’t offered new anywhere to my knowledge and I’m sure its next to impossible to track down an original as most used clusters I’ve seen on eBay tend to be missing their internals.
Click to expand...

The same part was also used in T160 Trident and '76-on T140/TR7 LH switch clusters (also red knob in RH clusters from '79) which might help broaden the search for a used replacement.
Repairing/Replacing Lucas Switch Internals

Repairing/Replacing Lucas Switch Internals
 
Anvill said:
Hello,

I have another question as I’m wrapping up my MKIII refurbish. The handlebar switches were in really rough shape when I got the bike, packed with crud and corrosion. I was able to clean both units and replace springs, ball bearings, and contact points as needed, save for one part. The turn signal slider on the left cluster has a nasty crack in the pressed spring steel about 2/3 of the way through. It technically still works as a switch but doesn’t click in place as it should and I’m afraid is not up to the rigors of actual use.

The component itself isn’t offered new anywhere to my knowledge and I’m sure its next to impossible to track down an original as most used clusters I’ve seen on eBay tend to be missing their internals. Being stamped spring steel I don’t have any ideas for fixing the existing part or fabricating one from scratch. But I’d really hate to buy a whole new (very expensive) cluster for one bit of metal.

So I thought I’d reach out here to ask if anyone has had this issue before and figured out a clever replacement or substitute part that can be used? Picture of the part below. I guess I didn’t get a pic of the broken one, but this is the same component from the right cluster, which was thankfully still intact.

Repairing/Replacing Lucas Switch Internals


Thanks guys,
Anthony
Click to expand...
The original isn't repairable by TIG welding (wet rag around the plastic end)?
Cheers
 
I bought a box full of Mark 3 switch clusters a few years back with the hopes of making up two good ones. Never really panned out. I'll check and see if I have a decent turn signal switch. I'm actually running a "Sparks" repo on mine as the clutch handle perch broke, but I put the lucas internals in the housing as the Sparks switch started to bend.
 
Would it be possible to change the title of this thread to something a bit less vague? Say, Repairing/Replacing Mk III handlebar switch internals. That will make it easier to find, using the search function in the future. By current title, you could be talking about the ignition switch or the headlamp mounted switch on an earlier model.
 
Took a look in my stash , sorry all I have parts for older models …. back when , I used headlight shell with no holes and had Headlight control in left switch controlled by the unused turn indicator switch which moved up/down ( up high beam, middle off, down low beam) … everything I have is that earlier type …. Check with Greg Marsh on here , maybe …. goodluck …Obviously wasn’t caught up in perfect stock original bike , the right side was just what came with Matt CNW front brake m/c upgrade kit …. no one ever mentioned that and it worked great , as did my headlight , turn indicators were my arms
 
chaztuna said:
Would it be possible to change the title of this thread to something a bit less vague? Say, Repairing/Replacing Mk III handlebar switch internals. That will make it easier to find, using the search function in the future. By current title, you could be talking about the ignition switch or the headlamp mounted switch on an earlier model.
Click to expand...
I'm a bit new to posting on this forum but if that's something I can change on my end I am glad to do so. At first glance I don't see a way to edit this but I'll dig deeper this evening.

Thank you for the recommendation for compatible switches and thank you all for your offers to look through your spare parts bins. Great folks on this forum.

Anthony
 
I think you have the switches mixed up. The red one is the kill switch and the black is the blinkers. Anyway, I have one of each. Also I drilled the rivets out of the spring on one that was unsalvageable in case you want to rivet it onto your original. If you want one or the other PM me your address and I will send one. If you are trying to build a concourse 10 point bike, these are not for you. Functionally they are fine.
20220317_163059.jpg
 
Besides that switch internal looking like it was on the bottom of the Pacific at some point, what wears to the point of non function.

They look very 1970's Yamaha or Kawasaki.
 
Time Warp said:
Besides that switch internal looking like it was on the bottom of the Pacific at some point, what wears to the point of non function.

They look very 1970's Yamaha or Kawasaki.
Click to expand...
At least in mine the springs for the lower buttons as well as the contact points had corroded to dust. I replaced the ball bearings more for good measure than existing wear. There’s not a bunch else to wear out in there from what I remember unless the plastic innards were to degrade. And you might even be able to 3D print those. That darn spring steel seems about the only part that can’t be replaced. In any case, dialectic grease would hopefully prevent that type of corrosion.
 
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