Repairing a Loose Timing Gear Spindle in Case

Stephen Hill said:
The spindle came out with the cover, instead of being retained in the case. So instead of being an interference fit in the case, it is a sliding fit. Two sliding fits might be just fine, depending on clearances. And why is loctite retaining compound being ruled out. Within specs, this could be a perfect application.
www.henkel-adhesives.com

Retaining Compounds

Secure bearings, bushings, and cylindrical parts into housings or onto shafts
www.henkel-adhesives.com www.henkel-adhesives.com
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Torontonian said:
Because it's wonky and wallowed out . Sounder engineering says a bush and not a fancy pants glue .
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OK, fully circle. What post number says that it is wallowed out?

As I said in my first post this thread, if it does not rock in the hole, use Locltite.

Even if the front side of the hole is expanded due to the spindle being pulled by not supporting it while tightening/loosening the cam nut, the entire hole is probably not out shape and Locktite will work fine. The outer cover holds it just as much as the crankcase.

Clean all, put the correct Locktite on the spindle, put it in the crankcase, and put the cover on immediately. Wait 24 hours, take the cover off and proceed like there never was an issue!
 
Totally agree with Greg.
A good mechanic or machinist can readily determine if the spindle hole is excessively worn.
A practical consideration is the load being supported. In this case the load is much less than a loose layshaft bearing, another topic where loctite is often discussed and rejected.
If you decided the wear was minimal and to use loctite, what are you risking? Take the cover of 3 months later and see how it is holding up. There is no risk of catastrophic failure.
 
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Should also get the proper alignment plate so the chain can be tensioned correctly prior to cover going one. With the plate holding everything correctly, any deflection on the spindle still detectable would mean the casing opening is too far gone.
 
I have a question that hopefully some clever member will answer.
My '74 850 is coming up for its 9500 miles service.
I hope to fit the AMR modded cover and pump then.
I will also be due to check the cam chain tension.
I have a spindle support tool for my 650ss (made from a damaged cover - see below)
Will this fit my commando?
Cheers
Repairing a Loose Timing Gear Spindle in Case
 
If chancing it with loctite I'd use 648 it's a lot more heat resisting in my experience
 
robs ss said:
I have a question that hopefully some clever member will answer.
My '74 850 is coming up for its 9500 miles service.
I hope to fit the AMR modded cover and pump then.
I will also be due to check the cam chain tension.
I have a spindle support tool for my 650ss (made from a damaged cover - see below)
Will this fit my commando?
Cheers
View attachment 104403
Click to expand...
Geez! That's not a tool, it's a piece of art! :) Even polished enough to see you taking the picture and all the edges are softened - wow!
 
Andover & RGM make the intermediate shaft support tool - but 20GBP plus shipping.
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE SHAFT SUPPORT PLATE TOOL (SUITABLE FOR NORTON TWINS 500CC TO 850CC)

RGM NORTON 067325 INTERMEDIATE SHAFT SUPPORT PLATE
www.rgmnorton.co.uk
I thought I would show a little more detail on my "modded" timing cover tool for some who have not seen one. Damaged timing covers can be found quite cheaply at swap meets, etc.
I have only used a hacksaw, some files and sandpaper to get this shape. You'll note it picks up the dowel at the lower/front (lower left on first photo) and that the support gussets around the spindle boss have been left intact.

I was satisfying making it and, as allude to by @marshg246 , I think it's a bit art deco or Salvador Dali. Might even hang it in the lounge room when not in use! ;)

BTW - I would never perform a task that involve the cam chain being tightened without a support tool - you'll just risk ruining your crankcase.

EDIT: The cut-out at the rear is not required for a Commando but is needed for earlier bikes where the ignition (magneto or points) is driven by chain.

F010A866-50C6-4890-AF93-16711F9C5E89.JPG
23978CDC-D0C3-41AB-A1F4-801A70FF00E3.JPG
 
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Mark Savage said:
Not as "arty" but still as functional. A hole saw was the main tool used. The timing cover was off my 1958 Dommie that used the less preferred type of OPRV and I needed one with a tacho drive boss so it got sacrificed.

View attachment 104485View attachment 104486
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i'm suitably embraced... i carried out the same mod to a cover i have but i used my 41/2 cutting disc and no finesse...D- for me then:mad:
 

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