Rebuild Problem clutch operating mechanism

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With the gearbox rebuilt and the clutch rebuilt I cannot remember roughly how far the set screw in the clutch hub protrudes. Mine seems to be home on the pushrod after 1/3 to 1/2 have been taken up, can anybody say roughly if that is normal. Included is also a picture of the gearbox actuator.
 

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Gearbox actuator looks good. My clutch adjuster only has about 3-5 threads showing above the jam nut, if that helps. Going by memory - would need to pull the bung to verify for sure.
 
Thanks Derek, but has got me stumped is the adjuster screw is fully home on the pushrod and not with the ca. one turn out and as you see the actuator gets pressed against the inside of the housing. Am I missing something or just plain blind as to what I am doing?
 

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Mine sticks out a bit but works OK clutch works fine running stock plates and clutch has always been light from day one, 46 years now.
 
Looks like I have the problem! I couldn't see it for looking at it.
What was the problem? The adjuster looks fine to me.

The bike I was working on today, the adjuster was screwed in flush tithe top of the nut, but still operated fine…
 
With the clutch cable slack, to be sure remove the clutch lever pivot screw then align the slots in the lever/cable adjuster and remove the cable such that it is free of the perch/lever.

Back off the jam nut that locks down the clutch adjuster. Get a deep socket to hold the jam nut, reach through the socket (driver removed)) and turn it in until it makes contact with the clutch. Once adjuster hits the clutch rod back it out a bit over 1/2 turn, lock the jam nut.

If you do not feel the adjuster , at some point. it may have been too tight from the get=go. if you experience this scenario back off the adjuster and approach as above.

Best
 
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