Rear wheel spacer on 74 Commando too tight

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Just talked with my Bud. who ordered in the new circlip to to replace the original 41 yr. old one. The new one is sharp on both sides. I always wondered why a retainer clip can be rounded on one side .
 
Torontonian said:
Just talked with my Bud. who ordered in the new circlip to to replace the original 41 yr. old one. The new one is sharp on both sides. I always wondered why a retainer clip can be rounded on one side .

Typical result of stamping parts out of flat sheets. Look closely at most flat washers.

Slick
 
Yes noticed washers are often rounded on one side so thought it might be the stamping process. But circlips should be better than that considering their important retention job. Nice to know the new one was sharp on both sides.
 
Torontonian said:
Yes noticed washers are often rounded on one side so thought it might be the stamping process. But circlips should be better than that considering their important retention job. Nice to know the new one was sharp on both sides.

Yes. Good quality circlips are not stamped. I do not know how they are made ..... perhaps stamped, then precision ground both sides. Any machinists out there?

Regardless how made, you are right to insist on being sharp both sides .... too important to buy on the cheap.

Slick
 
texasSlick said:
Torontonian said:
Yes noticed washers are often rounded on one side so thought it might be the stamping process. But circlips should be better than that considering their important retention job. Nice to know the new one was sharp on both sides.

Yes. Good quality circlips are not stamped. I do not know how they are made ..... perhaps stamped, then precision ground both sides. Any machinists out there?

Regardless how made, you are right to insist on being sharp both sides .... too important to buy on the cheap.

Slick
In 38 years of repairing/building machinery I've never seen a ground circlip. They are punched, and then heat treated. If you look close, the sheared edge tells the story.
Rear wheel spacer on 74 Commando too tight
 
Re: How circlips are made

When all else fails, ask Wikipedia .....

Made by punching or formed from flat wire. When punched, there is a sharp and curved edge. Forming from wire produces sharp edges both sides. As most on this forum know, the sharp edge should be faced towards the edge of the groove that will prevent the critical part from moving.

Slick
 
Guys thanks for all your suggestions I took the wheel and brake drum off the bike I ordered a new E clip and installed it it had a sharp edge on both sides. I checked all the bearings and spacers. When I put it back in the swing arm it fit very well with limited interference to get the spacer in. Brake shoes are not dragging. However when I tighten up either the dummy axle? and or the full axle the wheel tightens up and will not spin easily without drag? I don't know where to go from here? Any ideas would be appreciated Should the wheel spin freely I don't know as this was a basket case and I did not see the before product
Thx Drummer99
 
did you remove the 2 hub bearings? if so did you refit the long bearing spacer the right way?
 
and the wheel does not turn freely if I loosen the bolts slightly it will turn more easily It seems like it is binding and dragging on the brake drum


had the same tightness problem and could not seem to solve it so loosened the right hand axel enough so the wheel turned freely and rode for 16 years

it always bothered me a little but not too much as I knew my safety wiring of the axel would prevent it from loosening further

eventually I just eliminated the one thinner washer or milled the longer spacer, can't remember but it took enough tension out of there to allow fully tightening
 
I had trouble with wheel dragging once R/H axle was tightened. It turned out to be the speedo drive pressing on the hub cover (nice shiny new one I just fitted) as the drive housing was dished out of shape.
 
I am going to recheck the spacer but I am pretty sure it is right. I also just installed a nice shiny new cover I will check to see if the speedo drive is binding on this. How did you safety wire the axle?
Thx Drummer 99
 
toppy said:
I had trouble with wheel dragging once R/H axle was tightened. It turned out to be the speedo drive pressing on the hub cover (nice shiny new one I just fitted) as the drive housing was dished out of shape.

I do not understand how the speedo drive housing gets dished out of shape, but it happened to me. I found it bowed about 0.1 inch! FWIW, apply heat, and with a proper sized socket for backing, the housing can be reset.

When I rebuilt my rear wheel on my Atlas, I found the right side spacer would not go in with my fingers .... it always did before. With help from Madass and Dyno Dave, I traced the problem to a bow in the drive side swing arm. How the bow got there is a mystery, but the bow reduced the space available for the spacer by 0.14 inch .... about the same as the speedo drive bow .... coincidence? Resist the urge to mill down the right side spacer .... check the spacing between the swing arms, if less than specs, check for a bow in either arm.

Slick
 
I firstly removed the area of the cover that was dragging thinking it was just a modern pattern part an so was probably dished out to much. You could not really see the missing part of the cover for the speedo drive so no problem. Then guess what the drive failed (old an unknown mileage) have you ever heard of such a thing :roll:
(Joke please don't reply everyone the website will crash) when the Emgo replacement arrived I could see the difference between them and wondered if it was a slightly different style for a different make or model as other manufacturers used them.
 
toppy said:
when the Emgo replacement arrived I could see the difference between them and wondered if it was a slightly different style for a different make or model as other manufacturers used them.

The old Smiths drives were basically the same. Aside from the gear ratio, there were 3 or 4 different bore diameters in the speedo drive, and different mfgr's inserted a top hat spacer in the speedo drive bore to marry the drive to the mfgrs' axle.

Slick
 
Well I've just been down this road of a new brake hub/ sprocket touching the brake back plate when all was tightened up. Having had a quick look on here for a similar problem solution I read the post about not tightening it up but lock wiring the axle !!!! Really? Anyway part number NM E5276 (shim washer) sorted the problem. 8)
 
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