Rear sprocket modification

Quick question, going xring. Going to turn down the sprocket, which side do I take .125 off? Im assuming the brake side, just want to double check.

I took mine off of the outboard side. Be causious of the chamfer. The cast iron is easy to cut and simply holding a file at the proper angle will give it to you in seconds(as in 2 or 3).

Vulin said:

Quick question, going xring. Going to turn down the sprocket, which side do I take .125 off? Im assuming the brake side, just want to double check.

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Think of it this way, up front you're going to put a thinner sprocket. Which means closer to the gearbox, which means take the meat off the outside of the rear sprocket.

I "thinned" my sprockets on both sides.

If you have an Atlas sprocket and a Commando sprocket sitting on a surface plate you will see that the extra stock is to the outside. Now if you start from scratch you can do it any way you please. But the chain guards tend to be a little close to the motion at the outside and it is just a little better at the transmission end to keep it tucked tighter to the support bearing.

I use a CNW x-ring chainset, the sprockets are skinned from the outside.

I've done this mod is spades enough to not want to anymore on any bike with 50 hp or more, just because of the sprocket teeth endurance let downs.
But if a front Atlas sprocket used then the rear sprocket gets the out board DS of teeth milled off. With just a bit of self clearance wear of no effect a 530 X-ring fits. Of course its more massive so might be felt as some delay by the very sensitive.



Better res view that shows fan better to judge how many spares to stock per R wrist action.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2989639 ... 1179dOSLAC