Rear Isolastics

Since I already have the primary off, I decided to replace the Isolastics while I'm in this far. Did some research here:
greasing-isolastics-t16804-30.html?hilit=isolastic#p208036

1974

So, unhooked the head Iso:

Loosened the front Iso,
I went ahead and removed the left Z-plate.

Put a jack under the cradle, raised it a bit, put a long 1/2 inch socket extension from the right side and really didn't have to hit it very hard



Pulled out the extension

I dropped the jack, and could get at the Iso tube, but I really wanted a straight shot because I expected the worse. The hang-up was the horn, actually the wire connector to the horn was impinging on the freefall, so I pushed it off the prongs with a screwdriver (gonna be fun putting that back on!)

Pried just a bit with a bigger screwdriver and got the view I wanted


I had removed the Z plate on the right side, but that was before I found what the real hangup was, so it could have stayed there.
Put larger socket on the extension and easily knocked the rubber things out, still a lot of bounce in them, took me awhile to find them all around the shop floor.


I didn't find any shims at all, just these pieces.


I can see now how a person could get these out without even removing the primary and stuff. But I had read the posts about stuck rubbers, and pain and anguish, so prepared for the worst.
Really, if the rubbers go out and in willingly, some of the foreplay may be unnecessary.

And we're not even talking the frustrating possibility of the main iso bolt siezing to the rubbers from the rustage. Use syntetic grease on reassembly. The horn should be trashed then a modern one relocated. Good work.

Checked your swingarm pivots for sideplay/wear while you were in there ?
One of the common causes for a bit of rear wheel steering.
Look a bit crusty, and if all the oil has escaped, then wear follows...

Good pics.

+1 on getting a newer \. Louder horn. Also really great post\ pictures thanks Cj

Can I reuse these buffers and tubes?
edited:

Never mind, I went out see and I can take the buffers off the tubes OK, I will just replace those and get new bushings. The buffers seem to look OK, but they DO have some age on them.....

If I did not have the funds for the rear Mk111 style vernier setup ( nows the time) then I would simply reinstall the rubbers the other way,sagging to the opposite way they came out if that makes any sense. But these rubbers are like 45 yrs. old now. Then the joys of shimming it all up. The swearing ,the slipping and banging knuckles ,the fiddling ,the measuring with feeler gauges . Order in the Kit.

I'd replace the whole thing unless you want to increase your chances of being thrown down the road. Make sure the swing arm is straight and maybe do the spindle fix. Here's a bad pic of the additional spindle bolts just above oil filter.

Now is the time for new rubber bushes. You don't want to go through this again any time soon. I didn't find any spacers on my front mounts until a did a thorough cleaning of the end caps and found one stuck on.
I hope I can remember these pictures when I get to my rears.

Its times like this we should look at the big picture, ie: next generation but the rubbers can be flipped and last that long again and not mess with the handling any more than brand new ones do. For less and sooner isolation and surer handling remove the small cushions and put in two extra new ones. Put collars on the swing arm spindle whether it needs it on not right now. Good to bevel down the front iso's for nicer smoothness. The front iso handling upsets does not come from how soft it is to engine bounce but how much slack in the gap and from the swing arm slap it side/side via pivot thru rear iso. Swing arm compression translates some downward force on the front iso but the shock/springs take most of that annoyance out anyway. Indeed be relieved you did not share in the meaner cases of iso lore.

I'm going for new bushes, but the buffers looked really good. I thought maybe they would be welded together from age , but they came apart easily, I'll get new rubbers for them.
The swing arm feels good, its 'a MKIIa, most of that crust is from old chain lube, the other side is dry.
I'm thinking of going the Mick Hemmings adjuster route, but what time is a good time to call England?

I recommend the Hemmings adjusters. Easy to install and they work. Call in the morning your time.

The advise I got when I did my fronts was to assemble with Sil-Glyde from NAPA and to avoid anything petroleum-based. I used copious amounts all over the insides to prevent deterioration of the rubber. Somehow, the spacer was very corroded, possibly from moisture intrusion through the bolt hole?
I like how you are doing this. I'll have to do mine next winter.

DogT said:

I recommend the Hemmings adjusters. Easy to install and they work. Call in the morning your time.

Click to expand...

Just tried to call, my Verizon phone plan doesn't include out of country calls! need more coffee to figure this out.

As noted, ditch the lucas lump of a horn and relocate a modern flapper in the battery compartment. I pulled mine apart this winter using a very similar method, but my rubber was in very good nick, so I replaced the end caps with the Hemmings adjustable units... very good investment while you're at this stage

http://www.norton.norvil.net/mhiso01.htm

Tried to call Hemmings this morning, busy, or my international dialing skills aren't very good. I'm not sure about the faxing - ordering part.

Many places this side of the pond for adjustable rears. Now's the time for sure.

openroad said:

Tried to call Hemmings this morning, busy, or my international dialing skills aren't very good. I'm not sure about the faxing - ordering part.

Click to expand...

http://www.howtocallabroad.com/uk/
RGM

The 0 in brackets might be able to be deleted,it will ring through or not either way.

011 44 (0)1946 841517

Six hours ahead of you by the looks of it.

http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/full.html

I pulled the Isolastics out of the 71 yesterday,toast with the tubes loose in the buffers from deterioration.
Will get the Andover kits locally being only about $10 over the AN site UK price.
What I have noticed is the USA prices can be up to 100% over what they cost in the UK where they are made.
There also seems to be all manner of 'Iso kits from very cheap to ultra expensive.

openroad said:

Tried to call Hemmings this morning, busy, or my international dialing skills aren't very good. I'm not sure about the faxing - ordering part.

Click to expand...

I would keep trying to call. Be ready cause he will have his pad out ready to take your order and finalize the deal. Again, be ready.

I've been trying 01604638505

Has it been changed to 011 44 (0)1946 841517?

http://www.wikihow.com/Call-the-UK-from ... ted-States

Vince