Rear engine mounting bolts

I'm about to put the engine back in my '71 750 and was wondering if there is a correct way to install the 3 rear mounting bolts to the cradle, or if it makes any difference?
I was thinking to install from the timing side, which would look neater and then it's easy to change a bolt if there was a problem.
But then I've seen a lot installed from the primary drive side......
Thanks a lot

You will find that you can't fit the top bolt from the right side because the timing side casting is in the way. I suspect that the other two are normally also fitted from the left just for symmetry. Other than that, I don't see any reason you couldn't fit the other two from the primary side.

Ken

Check the plain shank of the bolts are long enough to go through both gearbox plates, original ones are nowhere near long enough. You end up with the threaded portion of the bolt resting in one of the plates and when the engine starts to shake (as they do)the thread starts to wear into the plate. Worn/loose bolts and worn /broken plates are the result. Especially the 'ear' at the bottom.
It mentions in a copy of the factory tuning notes i have to ream the rear engine mounting bolt holes and fit oversize fitted studs to counter this problem.
Get some 10mm long bolts of 8.8 grade or higher, cut the head off, cut 3/8" UNF thread at both ends making sure that the plain section is long enough and then ream the holes in situ. A 10mm reamer (or better still an adjustable reamer for a nice close fit) will go though the case dowels on a MK III, don't know about a 750
I had to this to my bike just after I bought it in January. the plate holes were so worn i had to build them up with weld and drill/ream them to suit. A full days job i do not want to repeat soon.
Powder coating was one of the factors why this was so bad, the PO had powder coated the engine/gearbox plates and had just bolted the engine in without removing the coating where the plates meet the engine. Engine shaking, coating wearing away, bolts not followed up
give ideal conditions for worn holes etc
I don't like powder coating

Another option, if you are in England, is to take it to Norman White. He used to have a procedure where he would drill/ream the holes in the cradle and the crankcase out for a hollow dowel pin to locate everything, and then use a bolt through the middle. I think he used 5/16" bolts in place of the original 3/8", so he could use a reasonable diameter dowel pin. But it was 25 years ago or so when I visited his shop and he showed me what he did, so I may not have all the details correct. I assume he still performs that service, since he's still in business. If you're a mechanical sort (and aren't all Commando owners?) and want to try it yourself, it's a pretty straightforward task. It also eliminates the issue with the threads abrading the plates.

Ken

On my Combat I fit all cradle through bolts in from primary side with some care to start the nut before fully seating the TS case blocked on. Peel has all mount hole bored for almost interference fit of 7/16" bolts from AirCraft Spruce that are a golden finish.

Thanks for the help.
I hadn't noticed the timing casting gets in the way.....
I'll probably fit them from the left in that case, and I'll check the thread length of the bolts whilst I'm at it.
I've had powder coating done, but I've taken off all the coating around the mounting points so I'll hopefully be ok in that respect. As it's partially built I'll see how I get on with the standard bolts and check they stay tight.

Cheers

Robin