Rear axle fitment

marshg246 said:
That sounds like very incorrect cush rubbers. Maybe they are too thick as well. They are not what prevents the hub from hitting the brake drum. There will be no wobble and they would not prevent it if there were. As concours mentioned, remove them and put it all together. If it won't go then either you have it assembled wrong, have the wrong parts, or the swingarm is bent. If it does assemble without them, you should be able hold the brake drum still and rotate the wheel back and forth until the fingers stop it, and the wheel must not wobble.

When one side it bent it's easy to tell - measure the distance of the flat parts and see if they are parallel. When both are bent - it's harder and what L.A.B. said above is very important. I had one that was bent about 1/8" on the drive size and 3/16" on the timing side both towards the drive side. Fortunately, I had good swingarms to compare with so I could be sure I was straightening it correctly.
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I have two sets of rubbers, one I bought from Rabers years ago when they were in business. The other set I just got from Andover Norton on Saturday. They are identical to each other.
 
concours said:
So, did you assemble it WITHOUT the hard plastic (rubbers) mentioned above to prove/disprove the theory they are the problem?
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I went back and assembled without the rubbers and everything fits nicely. Just need to deal with the rubbers. Thanks for the idea. Using a wooden hammer handle also gave extra clearance. Thanks to Greg Marsh for that one.
 
Got it, finally! Thanks to all who helped me work through this and gave me suggestions. What a hassle, due to my inexperience.
 

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Be sure you put the thicker cush rubbers on the side side of paddles dealing with the drive force from chain. Thin ones go to the engine braking side.
 
texasSlick said:
@jamesp : So what was it?

Slick
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I used a wooden hammer handle to put pressure between the speedo drive and the fork tab to open it up a bit so I could put the spacer in. Then, I tapped it into place and slipped the axle through. I also put some silicon on the rubbers so the paddles could move in easier. Unfortunately, I need to take it off again to put in some thin spacers between the drum and the faceplate as they are rubbing together causing some friction when wheel spins.
 
A good tip I came across was to have rear brake held on hard while torquing axle. Helps to center shoes to the drum. I use a rubber hammer handle btwn foot brake and foot rest.
Also, do not use the workshop spec for rear axle, as the 70 ft-lbs will cause the speedo casing to distort, leading to the infamous "Black Star of Death" when casing begins to machine into hub cover plate, with the melted lube grease flowing out over the cover.
No more than 45-50 ft-lbs seems to avoid troubles.
 
Mine has always needed some gentle prying to get that spacer in. As far as rubbing at the speedo drive: Sometimes the speedo drive gets bent and needs a little creative vise work to straighten it out. Fix it before the nice polished plate gets grooved up. Check the "top hat spacer" too.
Looks good!
Russ
 
batrider said:
Mine has always needed some gentle prying to get that spacer in. As far as rubbing at the speedo drive: Sometimes the speedo drive gets bent and needs a little creative vise work to straighten it out. Fix it before the nice polished plate gets grooved up. Check the "top hat spacer" too.
Looks good!
Russ
Click to expand...
I believe the current working hypothesis is that the potmetal of speedo gets squashed/extruded where it is clamped by axle spacer, such that outer edges of speedo are forced toward hub cover plate.
 
I have exactly this problem. I have stripped and checked the hub so many times.
I shortened the spacer, everything is fine but I've changed my mind and bought a new one.
Won't be able to investigate till a week and a bit.
I have fitted a new rgm drum.
Will have to look at that side but all looked ok.
 

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