proper way to raise the idle

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You are not making sense. If you have synched the carbs, you have done so by adjusting the cable adjusters so that the carbs are synched, i.e. that they lift in unison. Then you put slack in the cable adjusters, undoing the synching you just performed, so that the adjusters won't interfere with the slides returning under spring load. You have just undone the synching adjustment to the cables.
 
montelatici said:
You are not making sense. If you have synched the carbs, you have done so by adjusting the cable adjusters so that the carbs are synched, i.e. that they lift in unison. Then you put slack in the cable adjusters, undoing the synching you just performed, so that the adjusters won't interfere with the slides returning under spring load. You have just undone the synching adjustment to the cables.
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I have no idea what you are referring to starting with, "Then you put slack in the cable adjusters,,,". Are you actually referring to my last post or another's? If mine, note that I said listening for only one click should be the "the last check", not a step in the actual sync'ing process.

Also keep in mind, it's possible to be waaay off in carb balance, (for instance if one throttle screw was three turns in more than the other) and still adjust the cables to raise the slides at the same time off the ill adjusted stop screws. And for that matter hear a single "click" too.
 
I'll throw a cat among the pigeon and say that I do it differently :)

I take off the air filter and use a dentist's mirror to see when the slides are level at the top of the carb bore. ( Almost at full throttle).
As the slide cutaway disappears up past the top of the bore it disappears as a sliver that you can see and accurately estimate which one is higher. Then simply adjust the cables on top of the carbs to get them level. Make sure there's slack at closed throttle and I adjust the idle by ear. It doesn't take much experience to know when a 360 twin is idling smoothly.

Job done.
 
montelatici said:
Why would you want to over complicate a relatively simple process to achieve an idle you are comfortable with? Set the air screws at 1 and 1/2 turns and then set the idle after synching the carbs. Sheesh. I have owned Commandos since 1971, and have raced them, every guy that tuned these bikes did it that way from when I was 18 years old, I learned the process from those guys, all dead by now. Why try to re-invent how to boil water?
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Oh dear, another one still living in the dark ages this is the home mechanic’s quick solution- and yes I used to do it exactly the same way, until I discovered Colourtune plugs (and NO they DO NOT work in sunlight)
 
I've owned a Colourtune kit for over 30 years. It is not used to synch carbs. It is used to determine jet sizes and slide type to arrive at an optimum mixture at various running throttle openings. It is not vey helpful to set the idle mixture either.
 
My colourtune dies tickover tuningvery well, as long as its dark. Due to it not being able to run under load its not much use beyond slide cutaway.
 
A friend of mine was seeking carburation perfection on his restored Ducati 860 some years ago, with his new colour tune spark plug kit.

His spent a little too much time seeking a little too much perfection... And seized it up !

I've seized plenty of bikes, but normally on the road or track... Not in the workshop !

Broke (financially and psychologically) he sold the 'un finished project needing engine attention' at a sizeable loss, before ever having it on the road... He has never lived it down...!
 
kommando said:
My colourtune dies tickover tuningvery well, as long as its dark. Due to it not being able to run under load its not much use beyond slide cutaway.
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Exactly.
 
montelatici said:
kommando said:
My colourtune dies tickover tuningvery well, as long as its dark. Due to it not being able to run under load its not much use beyond slide cutaway.
Click to expand...

Exactly.
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Exactly??

Kommando says it DOES do tickover tuning very well. You said "It is not vey helpful to set the idle mixture"...

I've never used one, so am impartial, but I'm curious as to why you think it is NOT helpful for setting the mixture at idle? I would have thought that was its main benefit...
 
montelatici said:
I've owned a Colourtune kit for over 30 years. It is not used to synch carbs. It is used to determine jet sizes and slide type to arrive at an optimum mixture at various running throttle openings. It is not vey helpful to set the idle mixture either.
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Re;” It is not used to synch carbs”. …True, I never said it was.

“It is used to determine jet sizes and slide type” Oh! I didn’t know Colourtune plugs could be revved over 3,000 RPM :!: :shock:

“It is not very helpful to set the idle mixture either” -- with all due respect to you sir, you must be doing something wrong ….somewhere. :shock:
 
A little light just went on in my head.

After re-reading the thread title, htown had it right on the very first reply.

htown16 said:
On the side of the carbs are screws that angle up. Mark where the slot of the screw is on the carb body with a magic marker. Turn each screw in the same amount until you get an even tickover. Shoot for around 1000 to 1100 rpm on a hot engine. About a quarter of a turn should do it.
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monte started the bunny trail, and we were all sucked into the synching topic, which is off topic.
 
grandpaul said:
A little light just went on in my head.

After re-reading the thread title, htown had it right on the very first reply.

htown16 said:
On the side of the carbs are screws that angle up. Mark where the slot of the screw is on the carb body with a magic marker. Turn each screw in the same amount until you get an even tickover. Shoot for around 1000 to 1100 rpm on a hot engine. About a quarter of a turn should do it.
Click to expand...

monte started the bunny trail, and we were all sucked into the synching topic, which is off topic.
Click to expand...

The 45 degree screws were exactly what I was looking for. Solved my issue, but what a great read this is!
 
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