Preferred Chain Lubricant

CanukNortonNut said:

One thing that is missing from this testing is Chain heat up when in operation. Especially at speed.
Race chains and racing get the chains very hot. Too bad that was not part of the testing.

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How does a chain know its racing or not? ;-)

I used to sling parts for Equipment Depot. We were (they are) a lift truck dealer and service shop. We used cases of lift truck chain lube. That stuff is great but a nasty sticky mess when a couple of cans get holed by a pallet nail. Ask me how I know?

Still got two cans of Putoline chain wax and for a few years did the two chain rotation method. Fitted a Tutoro chain oiler that a friend gave me after he got fed up adjusting it. He went and fitted a Pro Oiler (From the Netherlands) https://www.pro-oiler.net/ This is a pumped system that uses the bikes speed to regulate when the pump pulses the oil flow.
A year later i removed the Tutoro as i got fed up with its idiosyncrasy's (not enough oil or too much, change of temperature and the viscosity of the oil changes and your adjusting the flow again and again and again)
Went and fitted a Pro Oiler along with a 500ml reservoir and have not looked back. Same chain been on for the last 10,000 miles and only had to adjust it once. Beauty about the Pro Oiler system is that you can adjust the flow from the handlebars via its own control pad. If it starts to rain, increase the oil flow, ditto if the conditions are dry and dusty.

dobba99 said:

Still got two cans of Putoline chain wax and for a few years did the two chain rotation method. Fitted a Tutoro chain oiler that a friend gave me after he got fed up adjusting it. He went and fitted a Pro Oiler (From the Netherlands) https://www.pro-oiler.net/ This is a pumped system that uses the bikes speed to regulate when the pump pulses the oil flow.
A year later i removed the Tutoro as i got fed up with its idiosyncrasy's (not enough oil or too much, change of temperature and the viscosity of the oil changes and your adjusting the flow again and again and again)
Went and fitted a Pro Oiler along with a 500ml reservoir and have not looked back. Same chain been on for the last 10,000 miles and only had to adjust it once. Beauty about the Pro Oiler system is that you can adjust the flow from the handlebars via its own control pad. If it starts to rain, increase the oil flow, ditto if the conditions are dry and dusty.

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dobba99,
There is also a product called Scottoiler Esystem. Adjustable drip rate and reservoir of oil. Two types of viscosity oils.

Tornado said:

How does a chain know its racing or not? ;-)

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By how hot it gets. I remember watching a film of a field marshal at a motorcycle race way trying to pick up a chain that just came off to clear the track. He didn't hold it for very long.

on a sidetrack, I have an o-ring chain that has done more than 2 k miles, and the links are still sitting at slight angles to each other, wierd!

CanukNortonNut said:

dobba99,
There is also a product called Scottoiler Esystem. Adjustable drip rate and reservoir of oil. Two types of viscosity oils.

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The pumped scott oiler esystem wasn't on the market when i bought my Pro oiler. Does the same thing but using accelerometers to activate the software whereas the Pro oiler can have either GPS, speedo or wheel rotation input. Similar kind of money

Not affiliated with either adjustable oiler but just for an FYI for those interested. The kit is pricey and for those who do less than 1k miles per year would not even consider the system.
I always put my lube on the chain when I come back from a run and not on a cold chain.

When I was a newbie corner worker in our briefing were were told not to pick up a chain without gloves.

As far as chain lube: I have used chain-and-cable-lube from NAPA for many years and many miles. Was Balkamp; I think its under the Mac's brand now. The oil or grease or whatever is dissolved in a volatile fluid so that it wicks into the rollers and pins then evaporates and also wicks into wire rope (cable) also used on mining and construction equipment. Very little flings off but what does is very sticky and you need a solvent to remove it with a rag. What's on the rim does collect dirt but I can't speak to what happens inside the chain parts.

I began using it on a CB750 Honda that ate up chains and rear tires at an alarming rate. That lube helped some but going with the factory upgrade to a 13-tooth drive sprocket also help a lot. Less angular velocity to fling oil off said Honda. The Honda had an adjustable chain oiler that made a mess but didn't help with chain life so far as I could tell.

My chains now last a very long time. Lately that's because I don't ride so much anymore but there was a day that I commuted ~30 mi/day, in the rain for months at a time. The lube was quite waterproof, and chain life was good to excellent. Now my issue is gravel dust on unpaved roads. The Matchless dumps a good bit of motor oil on the chain and seems to keep it fairly clean.

On my o-ring chain touring bikes I always had a Scotoiler fitted - one tip is to use chainsaw oil as it’s the same and cheaper.

I no longer do enough mileage to need to do much to my chains apart from a quick squirt of an aerosol chain oil. Either that or a wipe over with heavy gearbox oil with a rag.

I have got a barely used tin of the stuff you heat up until it’s molten and dunk the chain in that I used for my ultra heavy duty chain in my turbo race bike, it’s good for normal chains.

i use a scottoiler on my o ring chain. my daytona 955 has 25k miles and still original chain and sprockets in good order

Time Warp said:

How does an external spray sparingly applied add lubricant to the pins and bushes of a non O-ring chain. (which is one of the so called benefits of an O-ring chain)
#

Perhaps the ultimate is a non O-ring chain that is serviced in a pressure pot that contains a suitable pin/bush lubricant, so it is forced into that location.

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I soak mine in a shallow pan full of 90 gear lube when the chain is off the sprockets. Let it soak for a few days, hang it up let it drain overnight.