Poping and erratic running there then gone.

Can't remember the name, but there's a guy who strips tanks and relines with epoxy and guarantees not to bugger the paint. Not cheap, but cheaper than repainting after getting the guck out.

The only way I know is to use aircraft stripper.
It's tough to keep it from damaging the paint -but I have seen it done.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/cs/paintremovers/surestrip.php

I'm familiar with Aircraft Spruce & Specialties. It's a good source of supplies.

Danno said:

Can't remember the name, but there's a guy who strips tanks and relines with epoxy and guarantees not to bugger the paint. Not cheap, but cheaper than repainting after getting the guck out.

Click to expand...

I would use the guy. Especially since if that Kreem is already in there there must have been a leak of some sort. Does he test the tank after cleaning, but before relining with epoxy? I know this seems a bit off to the side of the original thread, but not really. I don't think it's the Kreem -- yet. The problem wouldn't completely go away just by waiting half an hour if it was the Kreem. It would just get worse and worse I think. But later that really could become a problem. And a new high quality tank goes for??

Good repros are about $450. There are cheaper ones, but some look odd and not shaped exactly like original.
I think the guy charges about $350. Add the price of painting to the good repro and you're talking big money.

I still think it's electrical and influenced by heat, as someone else posted. But I would get that crap out of the tank ASAP in any case.

You can DIY if you're extremely careful (and lucky) but here's a link you might look into:

http://gastanklining.com/

Danno said:

Good repros are about $450. There are cheaper ones, but some look odd and not shaped exactly like original.
I think the guy charges about $350. Add the price of painting to the good repro and you're talking big money.

I still think it's electrical and influenced by heat, as someone else posted. But I would get that crap out of the tank ASAP in any case.

Click to expand...

I completely agree that it must be electrical. But does anyone know who the guy is who offers this service? Or, and this may be the better question, has anyone ever had experience with his workmanship and his business in general?

About the electrical nature of the intermittant failure; the person I spoke to at Power Arc (I think it was the man who owns the company and actually developed the product) suggested a connector that was corroded in the wiring near the engine. Even wiring in the Power Arc coil and spark advance curve selector box that sits up under the tank in the front bolted to the support where the two tank bolts are connected. But I'm starting to doubt that too. Unless someone has experience with a critical connector (blade or barrel type) or a solder joint that would be so affected by the heat some inches from the head that it would experience an expansion type or some mild heat related disconnect, whatever that could be, that then reconnects after a 30 minute shut down, I would discount that. The intermittant failure of a coil I can believe. Is there a way to test coils? It actually would be better if it wasn't so intermittant. And here's the big question for me. Will I be out somewhere when it decides to quit for good! Yes I'll carry the jumper wire. AND my cell phone. Before anyone wonders why I'm still putting up with this, it's because the new ignition won't be here till at least the weekend. And the new ignition is mostly because I'm sick of the kick back. And I've tried the "special" kicking technique in all it's possible variations.

The first failing coil I ever came across was hot to the touch, it would cool down after 10 mins and then get me another 200 yards. Once you enjoy the intermittency of a failing coil you know to take a gloved hands to the coils and check if kicking does not restart, so never took one to total failure, the first one was still working for 200 yards a cool down 15 miles later when I got home, it went straight into the bin.

I think loose/corroded electrical connections make their own heat , hopefully someone more informed will comment ....

Loose or corroded connections do get hot indeed. I believe Joe is going to find happiness in a wassell or one of the other popular makes while someone else works the bugs out of what he's currently got. He wants to ride, not do R & D for someone else and I think this should be a big step forward. A known EI & Coils goes pretty damn far in eliminating failure possibilities…
When cleaning my tank after poor storage practices I considered applying coatings, after reading on that kreem product I simply cannot fathom why anyone would put that yak sperm in a motorcycle fuel tank. I wouldn't put it into a waste disposal drum. Pure garbage.

Joe you may have to just take a big one and end up doing a paint job. There's good decals out there that handle going under clear coat. Paints at reasonable cost. Small compressor & HVLP gun not that expensive. I use lacquers, but the stuff isn't the same as they used to make..... In for a penny in for a pound ….. You're well on your way to becoming a Norton Commando Specialist. No joking intended here... Just keep applying time and money as have we all.
Good news is once you get it all fit it goes to regular maintenance which I feel you shall welcome.