Peeling Chrome Rims

Hi everyone-

I picked up a 1965 Matchless G-15CS from its original owner. It's been ridden and semi-restored once (non-stock red paint, home-made Zener diode, capacitor instead of battery, etc); it's not totally original but it has honest character, including the rust one might expect after being stored for a few years. Working on getting it running...the mag needed a servicing and I'm having the carbs sleeved.

I happen to like its world-worn appearance but I want to make sure nothing rusts through, most especially the rims (steel, Dunlop-branded) which have some patches of missing chrome, some chrome that looks wrinkled, and a tendency to sprout rust atop the intact chrome. If I could simply leave them as-is but somehow abate any further rusting, I'd be fine with that...it's a matter of maintenance more than appearance for me.

Any suggestions on how to treat these? Have considered eliminating rust on the bare patches and sealing over with some sort of clear, or even "chrome" paint or nail polish. I know it won't look like a properly chromed wheel under any inspection, but I'll just forego keeping them clean. This bike just isn't a show piece; it's simply a survivor.

I'm not ready to take the wheels apart. If I get it running to my satisfaction, I may do a more detailed cosmetic restoration in the future. At that point I'll either put on alloys on or re-chrome these, but for now I just want to ride the bike as it is.

Painting them with 'chrome paint' will look dreadful.

Wipe them over with an oily / greasy rag and keep on riding it as it is!

You can vigorously rub the rust spots with aluminum foil and the aluminum left behind will somewhat hide the rust.
Jaydee

I live with it.

The peeled spots are the result of pressure from tire removal tools.

Replace the wheels with alloy, then you will be posting "how do I keep the shine on alloy wheels?"

Slick

texasSlick said:

I live with it.

The peeled spots are the result of pressure from tire removal tools.

Replace the wheels with alloy, then you will be posting "how do I keep the shine on alloy wheels?"

Slick

Click to expand...

:mrgreen:

Or go carbon fibre and post "how do I glue my wheel back together?"

Thanks--I have been scrubbing the rust off with foil balls but it keeps coming back. I'm going to try wiping down with Gibb's lube to keep it under control and may try a clear sealant of some sort over one patch to see how that works.

I've been fighting this problem myself with a few unrestored bikes and bits.

Some gentle discreet sanding and then rust remover (phosphoric acid etc), foil etc,
and then oiling/greasing/waxing helps some.

I've recently come across a can of 'clear guard' in the craft section of the hardware store.
Its intended for brass and copper and stuff, but if the chrome is very clean it will stick and stay there,
and is nearly invisible. Have only done a few test bits so far.
Long term some of these types of stuff go a bit yellowish, so we will see.

Apparently, the VW bus people just lurrrv the look of a rusty bug. It is alleged that ANCOR WAX will stop the bare metal getting worse. I have heard rustoration/originality freaks claim similar benefits.

http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/ankor ... fluid.html

I worked as a T/A to a maitenance fitter for a long time on any jobs that had bad rust we used a product called rust converter, you just brush the rusted area with it and leave, it would eat the rust away and bring the metal up like new but it also put a coating over the rusted area so the rust will never come back, you can also paint over it as its like a primer for any top coats.
When I brought my Commando new in 76 my back wheel after a few months the chrome started to lift, the wheel was replaced under warranty but after a few years the second rear wheel started to do the same but when I converted my Commando to a Featherbed in the early 80s I just brought a new set of Akront alloy rims $90 each in them days, till this day I am still running the Akront rims.

Ashley

ashman said:

I worked as a T/A to a maitenance fitter for a long time on any jobs that had bad rust we used a product called rust converter, you just brush the rusted area with it and leave, it would eat the rust away and bring the metal up like new but it also put a coating over the rusted area so the rust will never come back, you can also paint over it as its like a primer for any top coats.

Ashley

Click to expand...

There are several brands of rust remover out there .... all are phosphoric acid which converts the rust (iron oxide) to some other substance, some have additives to prevent re-rusting. However, I have found these products require the rusted part to be soaked up to 12 hours. Simply wiping on does not do the job, although I suppose if one wiped it hour after hour, it would eventually work.

Ashman, if you can give us the brand name, it would be helpful to find something that can be wiped on and forgotten.

I once had "naval jelly" which was of the consistency of Vasoline, and it could be applied and left until the rust was gone, but I have not seen it in stores for many a year.

Slick

Tex, here is the current incarnation:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt ... solver.htm

Likely has all the real good stuff removed in the name of HAZMAT. But you are right, it is all phosphoric acid based.

rwalker28 said:

Tex, here is the current incarnation:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt ... solver.htm

Likely has all the real good stuff removed in the name of HAZMAT. But you are right, it is all phosphoric acid based.

Click to expand...

Thanks RWalker28, ..... If you read the directions, it works fast and thoroughly, but does not prevent re-rust.

This would be a good solution to remove the rust on wheel spots, then rub with aluminum foil, then clear coat. This might be the answer to the OP's question. It will not hide the spots as good as a re-chrome job, but not as expensive either.

I plan to pick up the LocTite stuff, and give it a try.

Slick

Slick here in Aussie land the product is called Rust Converter, most paint shops and some hardware shops stock it, after its has cleaned the rust it dries with a protective coating to prevent the rust from returning, it turns a black colour and can be painted over and have used it for many years on a lot of rust repair jobs.

Ashley

texasSlick said:

ashman said:

I worked as a T/A to a maitenance fitter for a long time on any jobs that had bad rust we used a product called rust converter, you just brush the rusted area with it and leave, it would eat the rust away and bring the metal up like new but it also put a coating over the rusted area so the rust will never come back, you can also paint over it as its like a primer for any top coats.

Ashley

Click to expand...

There are several brands of rust remover out there .... all are phosphoric acid which converts the rust (iron oxide) to some other substance, some have additives to prevent re-rusting. However, I have found these products require the rusted part to be soaked up to 12 hours. Simply wiping on does not do the job, although I suppose if one wiped it hour after hour, it would eventually work.

Ashman, if you can give us the brand name, it would be helpful to find something that can be wiped on and forgotten.

I once had "naval jelly" which was of the consistency of Vasoline, and it could be applied and left until the rust was gone, but I have not seen it in stores for many a year.

Slick

Click to expand...

My 2003 Triumph Bonneville's rims starting rusting after about a year so I used Naval Jelly on them (Per the dealer's recommendation) and it worked great. You can still get it at Home Depot. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-16-f ... /203009241