One throttle cable (2017)

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(1) the slide/needle assembly retains its original position.
(2) what you see is only mock up prototype, and those arms were only made for set up. Actual production width is much wider @ .100"
each side
(3) yes am considering that but keep in mind the top of the cable mount cant be much closer to the pulley wheel becoz the cable adjuster
will foul the pulley wheel. I have already moved it 1/4" closer since that pic.
thanks for your input
Don
 
madass140 said:
(3) yes am considering that but keep in mind the top of the cable mount cant be much closer to the pulley wheel becoz the cable adjuster
will foul the pulley wheel. I have already moved it 1/4" closer since that pic.
Click to expand...

I think what Cliffa meant is to cut the top plate including the riser restraint out of a single plate and shape the restraint is a subsequent step. This would be possible by use of a particular aluminum alloy, say 6082 T0 (temper nil), which offers low strength but excellent ductility (A5=28%). In order to avoid clipping the blank, shaping should take place in a press using a mold. It is advisable to bend the metal transverse to the direction of grain produced by the rolling mill. Minimum inside bending radius is about .25in for a blank thickness of .25in .

Regards,
Knut Sonsteby
 
1) Given that the carb tops will be 3 - 5 mm higher than standard (a guess from the pics), is there any danger that at WOT the tip of the needles will pass out the top of the main jet and jam them wide open ? i.e. needle moved to the bottom groove etc. Like I say i'm sure you've thought of it, but it does no harm to ask (especially if you are going to test them out them first)

in standard mode, with the needle in its highest position the needle withdraws from the main jet by 9mm at full throttle, when it re enters, the needle is guided on center by the needle jet. it can not possibly catch on the edge of the main jet (unless the needle had a BIG kink near the bottom)
the extra thickness of my top plate wont make any difference
 
I deal with quite a few muli carb bikes, I like linkages. Your setup looks very sturdy.

on the subject of potential failure......
it's obvious that the cantilevered design puts the fatigue stresses on the intake manifold mounting tabs.
somethings-not-right-with-this-bike-ohh-t26939.html
I would think that adding more mass to top of the carbs would exacerbate the issue.
 
regarding the extra weight, I did some weight checking, I weighed a K&N style air filter for Commando which fits directly on to the carbs.
It weighed nearly twice as much as my assembly. not to mention the fact that the air filter is mounted at the rear of the carbs making it worse.
(1)So do you think all those guys running around with K&N clamp on air filters are aware that their carbs are about to snap off at any moment?
(2)Is there any proof that those cracked manifolds (and I'm sure this is not a common occurrence) are caused by excess weight on the carbs?
Maybe those cracked manifolds are from poor mounting, abuse, accident damage, poor manufacture ?????
 
I'm not so sure about snapping off at any moment,,, but experiencing that sort of issue is what prompted me to ask the question.
My bike has a single Mikuni with a K&N hanging off of it and it shakes pretty darn good. I have had to replace the rubber manifold adapter because it cracked.

I see your bikes air filter to some extent supports the end of the carbs and buffers some of the bouncing up and down.
Your linkage setup looks very well thought out. I am always impressed by the skills of the guys that post here.
 
Thanks for your answers Don. Put me on the list should you decide to go to production.

I think you have a bestseller here.

Cheers,

cliffa
 
all going good about 6 weeks time, hope to start machining parts later this week, stay tuned
Don
 
Hi Don,
How's the machining going ?

Not sure if you got this far yet, but what will you be using as a throttle cable an off the shelf one or are you custom making them too? (presuming you intend to include one) In either case I was wondering if you could include a cable that has the 90 degree steel elbow under the twist grip, as it gives a tidier look?

Cheers,

cliffa
 
madass140 said:
all going good about 6 weeks time, hope to start machining parts later this week, stay tuned
Don
Click to expand...

Don,
looks like I need one also...as all of you products so far that Ive gotten have been fantastic.

Tyler
 
Machining is underway. I'm waiting for material to make the 2 pull cables and other items. The riser for the cable holder will be made from
1/2" 6061 round bar, spigoted in to the base plate and welded both sides, it has a slight curve with machined flats at the top for the cable nuts.
I'm waiting for my cable order which does not have an elbow, it will come with a ferrule (for want of a better word) which is a neat fit over the cable
and in the throttle. Please be patient these things take time.
Don
 
https://photos.smugmug.com/SC-Kit/i-kkr ... 0003-S.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/SC-Kit/i-W8x ... 0005-S.jpg
Well this is the real thing, I have one under test myself and another on its way to another tester.
The cable supplied should be good for most handlebars, however for Clip,on's I can either shorten a cable or
supply another solder on end barrel and outer chrome ferrule so you can make your own length.
I have set one up using steel Interstate and Roadster tanks without clearance issues , just make sure you have the rear
cushion rubber in place. Not sure about the fit with fiberglass tanks as I dont have any.
I fitted mine up with the chokes and choke cables which is always a pain, I personally have never needed them.
I still have yet to put together a set of fitting instructions but its pretty much common sense but there is always some
who have never laid a spanner on their own bike and fitting something like this confuses the hell out of them
unless they have a 90 minute video tutorial,that wont be happening.
All going good initial selling price would be $95 + shipping, which would be $30 to the US by DHL elsewhere dependent on
postcode city and country.
Don
 
Promising looking despite the wire type slide lifters ala Trident T150 having a reputation of being hateful.
Still interested as makes sync-ing the carbs accurate.
 
Onder, the slide lifters are the same cable as standard, So what then should they be made from?
 
madass140 said:
Onder, the slide lifters are the same cable as standard, So what then should they be made from?
Click to expand...
the trident throttle rods are made of rod not cable
 
madass140 said:
baz, so is Onder assuming mine are made of steel rod? or???
Click to expand...
I don't know but your setup using a cable looks better to me,I have a t160 Trident that uses throttle rods similar to the t150 ,they are very fiddly to work with,collets tiny springs etc etc also because the throttle rods move in a very slight arc on a t160 the seals on rods can be an issue
 
Yes they looked like the solid wire ones used on the T150. They are actually ok just
that they are a pain when using the set up on the Trident.
I have your head and rear sets, no complaints , stuff is well thought out.
 
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