- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Ok Rich, I misunderstood the lack of damper rod in your cartidge set up and therefore your big damper hole function. Should not be much stress on holey damper tube - unless something is striking it.
W/o the damper cap on and no extended top bushes there is 6" bush to bush travel. If you don't have that then something is mis machined and snagging.
Greg that now sells hobot kit thought I was nuts till he found bad fit fault, for 4 months, back and forth like I was being mean liar. Triple check eh.
If you make a top out buffer that bares against the damper tube, better re-do the holes. Its been done by longer tube or rod + spring or same tube-rod + rubber bumper washer. Apparently did not work out well enough to evolve.
I assume you have modified the other fork leg to avoid the damper cap - valve top out clunker.
The spring rate is a big deal. In general I hear and felt myself the factory springs as too harsh for the little stuff yet too soft for the big bumps.
In general I read reports the common universal supplied progressive springs are too soft all around. I luck out to have read an ebay blip that mentioned custom 3 rate spring to avoid the general complaints and think they got it pretty right.
I've though up a cheap simple means to graph the progressive rate as ball park to aim for in next custom batch. But even these custom springs were a tad too hard and benefited with short second very soft to very hard spring spacer, to take up the slack the full 6" travel leaves in factory spring length, which coil binds before full 6".
190 cc is getting close to hydro lock up level, don't error with too much.
I'll be into Peel forks again soon, leaned on living room wall right now, to see how involved to flip cartridge and retain full 6" shock absorbing handling.
W/o the damper cap on and no extended top bushes there is 6" bush to bush travel. If you don't have that then something is mis machined and snagging.
Greg that now sells hobot kit thought I was nuts till he found bad fit fault, for 4 months, back and forth like I was being mean liar. Triple check eh.
If you make a top out buffer that bares against the damper tube, better re-do the holes. Its been done by longer tube or rod + spring or same tube-rod + rubber bumper washer. Apparently did not work out well enough to evolve.
I assume you have modified the other fork leg to avoid the damper cap - valve top out clunker.
The spring rate is a big deal. In general I hear and felt myself the factory springs as too harsh for the little stuff yet too soft for the big bumps.
In general I read reports the common universal supplied progressive springs are too soft all around. I luck out to have read an ebay blip that mentioned custom 3 rate spring to avoid the general complaints and think they got it pretty right.
I've though up a cheap simple means to graph the progressive rate as ball park to aim for in next custom batch. But even these custom springs were a tad too hard and benefited with short second very soft to very hard spring spacer, to take up the slack the full 6" travel leaves in factory spring length, which coil binds before full 6".
190 cc is getting close to hydro lock up level, don't error with too much.
I'll be into Peel forks again soon, leaned on living room wall right now, to see how involved to flip cartridge and retain full 6" shock absorbing handling.