Norvil Muffler Brackets

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I found this old post and it's exactly what I'm running into now.

Norvil Rear Sets Installation
by ducatitom » Thu Jul 31, 2003 9:18 am

I must say that Norvil has not provided very good equipment or support. I purchased the rear sets then realized I needed the brackets to hold the mufflers. After several trial and error installs I finally succeeded in putting it together.
On the left side muffler bracket I had to use nylon spacers (1/2" long) in order to hold the muffler away from the shock mount bolts.
The right side does not need the spacers and is in fact holding the muffler out further than the right side. (This is probably an issue with my engine mounting I suspect. Something I will work on later.)
Well I have it all together but the kick statrer needs to be rotated clockwise to allow the shift lever (in reversed position) to move up and down. I tried severl combinations of positions until I found a place that both kick lever and shifter would work.
However, I have a reduced function right foot. I cannot shift the lever from any position.

What are my options for a LEFT SIDE shift mechanism? I seldom use my rear brake so this I can work around.

Does anyone have a picture of the Norvil brackets? I know there isn't a lot of Norvil "z-plates" out there but I thought I might try.
 
The Norvil Exhaust mount Rubbers were B.M.C. mini exhaust mounts ,Hopeless bonded rubber thingo's ,so correct alignment was necessary.
If theyre mounted stressed , they'l delaminate .

looking at the I.O.M.bikes kikstart lever , its a mile longer .Undoubtedly necessary.So you get a large Gas Tourch , or a real Blacksmith,and
Heat red and straighten to get extra length .It also goes straight from the Spline, which avoids wasting effort working the spline / fitting loose.
Best Alternative would be getting two knackered ones , and building one long one from two. You need a lot (sufficent) heat to do a fast clean weld
if using gas. Or a competant Arc welder who KNOWS how to weld , Not one who doesnt who doesnt think it can be done,Breaking under entusiastic
use isnt an option.
This will get the kick start in and behind your knee.Tucked up under and inside the thigh. HAVE a look at Pictures of Williams I.O.M. Machine and
replicate exactly if possible.
The Gear box had an alternative Cam-Plate offered.which kept the same shift pattern with the lever reversed. Again , a straight lever was utilised.
So your in for the same exercise , or maybe flog one for an ancient Norton. The pre-unit Triumph levers were longer than unit, therefore better ?
Also th Triumph pre-unit ' oil pressure indicator ' end piece with protrudeing button , Fits to the Norton inner Oil Pressure Relief Vale Inner . AND
you dont kick it of kicking a reluctant box into gear on the Commando , as its Behind the Cover.Not adjacent to gear lever rubber as per Triumph.
Rather usefull for telling you you dropped the oil seal putting the cover on , etc .

Had a set of Original Norvil pipes , wasnt game to cut the side stand bracket of , so gave to a Norvil Owner years back.They fit UP , and IN compared
to Std. commando pipes . So sidestand and bracket on frame GO .

Otherwise not a lot is going to line up.Theres mini clubs around, pipe mounts are Exhaust Hanger rubbers . So might be the way to findem these days.
 
I don't think these are the Norvil pipes, just stock ones. Looking at some more pictures I have a better idea of how to at least make some temporary mounts.

Mick Hemmings has the correct ones for only $50 which isn't bad. Now I have to find out if the Fair Spares Norvil plates have the same dimension as what Mick builds too.
 
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