Norvil Headsteady 4 sale

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RoadScholar

RoadScholar

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Brand new Norvil headsteady, never mounted:

$220 Plus shipping and packing (US funds)

PM me if interested.

RS
 
What's up with the Norvil? I'm curious as to why you are selling it. Have you decided to use something else?
 
JimC

I am more interested in a smooth ride than razor sharp handeling.

When I set out on this Norton adventure I had envisioned taking it to as near modern high performance as I could get.

Before I laid a hand on the new acquisition I was selecting the Steve Manley components, the Carrillo rods, the Venolia forged pistons, the Quaife 5 speed...

I realized that no matter what I did I wouldn't come close to the performance or reliability of my Ducati Hypermotard.

What I want my Norton to do is fair weather 40 to 60 MPH backroads, New England is full of such venues. At that point I decided that the emphasis should be on creature comfort and reliability.

I don't need a Norvil headsteady to achieve my goals, I never spent any money with Manley, I was able to cancel the Carrillo rods before they were made and the vendor that had the Venolia pistions was happy to get them back.

RS
 
RS,

I completely understand. Your not the first to think about making a silk purse from a sow's ear, so to speak. I've been afflicted with the same malady where the Norton is concerned. I, too, drew in my horns and became realistic. Now, I try to concentrate on reliability and appearance. If I spend any big money it will be for an electric start for my 72 Combat or possibly start over with a MK III. The idea of a new project with a MK III seems enticing.

There are some very knowledgeable people on this site, which you are definitely one of. If I do decide to go with a new project I will welcome input from these same forum contributors. Thanks for your contribution.
 
Roadscholar, where in the Boston area are you? I live in Needham and work in Boston.

Do you ever go to MotoMarket in Acton - great bike hangout.

If you see a black 850 with license plate, "SNORT," say hello!
 
RoadScholar said:
JimC
I am more interested in a smooth ride than razor sharp handeling.
RS
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This is a needless, even erroneous false choice. A properly sorted Commando does, in fact, provide a sharp and smooth ride. It may be that there is a desire by some to achieve these qualities by simply bolting on new parts without accessing adequate information or the requisite skills for accomplishing those goals. The head steady is an excellent case in point.
 
RedRider1971 said:
This is a needless, even erroneous false choice. A properly sorted Commando does, in fact, provide a sharp and smooth ride. It may be that there is a desire by some to achieve these qualities by simply bolting on new parts without accessing adequate information or the requisite skills for accomplishing those goals. The head steady is an excellent case in point.
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RedRider
A properly sorted out Commando is a true pleasure and has a sweet spot that is second to none, the bandwidth of same, however, is quite narrow. I am not sure what your point is, but my *point* is that a Norton is best appreciated for what it is, not what it can be made into; I think I made that point earlier, although it required a bit of a learning curve, on my part.

The Norvil headsteady will most definitely add measureable handeling to the Norton; when I want to scrape (foldable) pegs I ride my Ducati or my son's R-1; I don't attend business meetings in running shoes either.

For those that want a Norton that handles better then themselves the headsteady I offer is a good start at getting there, and a great price!

RS
 
Sounds like your notion is that the Commando is a sedate ride, not a performance machine. I've never heard that opinion before. Many a well prepared Commando will gladly scrape each of its foldable pegs on demand, and still deliver you to your meeting in fine style, particularly via a twisty road, and perhaps ahead of most modern rides, depending on the rider of course. My point was simply to clarify that the Commando is by design a performance machine, and, sadly, often one that suffers from a misunderstanding of its nature. It has no need to become a modern Ducati, or R1, or anything other than the machine it is; and as such can be lovingly utilised for the performance it was originally designed to deliver. The Norvil head steady is often criticized for causing excessive vibration - in fact, it does, if it is mounted improperly. Unfortunately, it is an unecessarily complicated affair and is better replaced with a simple rod link steady, properly designed. I too have a Norvil head steady, along with the original oem steadies, and they each occupy a spot on the parts shelf, to be studied, and never used again.
 
RedRider 1971,
I am ready to be impressed with Norton performance; I have, certainly, set the stage properly for it with all the work I have done, or will be doing; nothing has been left to chance.

It has been 38 years since I have slung a leg over a Norton, back then Nortons were the measuring stick for performance; some people were reporting figures as high as 70 RWHP; the ZRX I sold 3 years ago was dynoed at 135 RWHP, after a few realtively simple mods. I do not expect my Norton to perform like my Ducati any more than I expect my .22 rimfires to perform like my 22-250.

I saw your headsteady and liked the design, similar to the Taylor, but with more substantial articulating joints. CNW has one in the works also; as soon as I can handle better than the Norton I'll buy one.

RS
 
The improvement in handling with a decent headsteady is really a safety issue. On an unknown road, even if riding "sedately" you may suddenly need all the stability you can get. As one who has been across a cow pasture at 50 mph after hitting ripple bumps in a turn on my Commando when it was new I'm allowed to say this.

A stock headsteady just doesn't cut it.
 
ludwig said:
Many of the comments here sounds like defaitism to me .
Soldiers of the Red Army where shot on the spot for that , and the bullet (20 köpeke ) had to be paid by their families ! .
A well prepared Commando can still fight , but he has to choose his battlefield . My riding partners have 3 times the horsepower , but they can't loose me in the mountains . ( eh , downhill , that is..)
That's why I think it is better to spend money on brakes and headsteadies than buy some extra horses , which will only ruin your gearbox .
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I agree with ludwig. I'm not fully experienced with Nortons, I have one, but haven't ever ridden one yet. But I have built and rode Triumph, and BSAs. either way they are the same as any vehicle, even the hotrods I've been involved with...

"Make them stop first. Then make them turn before you make them go"
 
"Make them stop first. Then make them turn before you make them go"
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Considering the sorry stock front disc brake of the Commando, that is excellent advice.
 
Bottom line is that it's still all relative.

A person should get to know the abilities and limitations of thier bike before they ever attempt to explore the "envelope".

Argue all you want, a Commando that is carefully serviced and maintained using OEM replacement parts can be a fine machine WITHIN IT'S LIMITATIONS.

Outside of the bike's inherent limitations, or within the expanded abilities brought about by aftermarket goodies, ALL BETS ARE OFF.
 
[/quote]Considering the sorry stock front disc brake of the Commando, that is excellent advice.[/quote]

The great thing about the Commando today is that all replacement parts are better than ever, and the range of upgrades appropriate to the original spirit of the bike is fantastic. The problem with the original disc is not the disc; it is simply the size of the master cylinder - too large; lacked adequate response. Resleeving is a simple solution that works very well. At the same time, there are great floating discs and AP calipers that work well and look the part. If one accepts the bike for what it is, then it can be upgraded and enhanced to great limits, but the trick is to keep all things in balance and harmony. If one is of the mind that one bike is "better" than an other, then they are probably more interested in acquiring "the best", rather than learning how to be a good rider, and how to understand and work a machine for what it naturally is. External expression vs. inner harmony.
 
Red
The whole disc system that the Norton came was a deficient design. As has been talked about the hyd ratio is WAY wrong, the to small diameter rotor allows the large diameter wheel to have to much leverage on the brake and the severely small pads are lacking in surface aria so yes you can make it marginally better but DON'T FOOL YOURSELF it is NOT a GREAT brake.

{The great thing about the Commando today is that all replacement parts are better than ever, and the range of upgrades appropriate to the original spirit of the bike is fantastic. The problem with the original disc is not the disc; it is simply the size of the master cylinder - too large; lacked adequate response. Resleeving is a simple solution that works very well. At the same time, there are great floating discs and AP calipers that work well and look the part. If one accepts the bike for what it is, then it can be upgraded and enhanced to great limits, but the trick is to keep all things in balance and harmony. If one is of the mind that one bike is "better" than an other, then they are probably more interested in acquiring "the best", rather than learning how to be a good rider, and how to understand and work a machine for what it naturally is. External expression vs. inner harmony.[/quote]
 
bill said:
Red
The whole disc system that the Norton came was a deficient design. As has been talked about the hyd ratio is WAY wrong, the to small diameter rotor allows the large diameter wheel to have to much leverage on the brake and the severely small pads are lacking in surface aria so yes you can make it marginally better but DON'T FOOL YOURSELF it is NOT a GREAT brake.

Not to worry, I replaced the original drum with a norvil 12" disc; however, I do use the original Lockheed mc, sleeved. Plenty brake for the bike, no ill effects on the forks, without a brace. However, the Roadholders are not up to the challenge, so I've switched over to the Cosentini cartridges.
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I have found that when you change one thing it seems to turn into a never ending battle of now that this is better it now needs something else upgraded as it moves the week link elsewhere. take the front end as an example, make a large improvement to the brake, now the dampening needs work, than you see the fork twist so do I try a brace or just change to a more modern front end assembly. aaahhh the joys of playing with these old beast's


[Not to worry, I replaced the original drum with a norvil 12" disc; however, I do use the original Lockheed mc, sleeved. Plenty brake for the bike, no ill effects on the forks, without a brace. However, the Roadholders are not up to the challenge, so I've switched over to the Cosentini cartridges.]
 
bill said:
I have found that when you change one thing it seems to turn into a never ending battle of ...]
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How true, and that is the fun of it. My personal challenge comes in the form of maintaining respect for the time and place of the thing's creation; improvments done within the parameters of the original design. For example, the reasons for changing to 18 in. wheels throws the entire chassis system into that spasm of bringing out "flaws" or weaknesses that otherwise are not a problem because of the overall harmony of the original design. Yet, the very action of riding the beast on modern roads, with a modern sense of time and expectations draws many of us, uncontrollably toward seeing it for what it's not. Somehow a mechanical variation on the Siren's call.
 
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