Discussion in 'Norton Motorcycle Rebuilds' started by norton_rider, May 30, 2019.
Cheers mate appreciate the reply
Bit more progress set the iso's to 0.015" an gave her a go with some new plugs lil bit of progress but I want to order some new needle jets and needles this week.
Dad was behind me in the car on this video full of tools haha
Currently just re routing the cables
An found the rubber exhausts mounts are perished so gonna order them an think we got to the bottom of the breather elbow leak as well. Video coming on that after today's work on her so probably of the road now till Thursday ish while I wait for parts. Making solid progress though!
Revs seem high for the MPH (unless you didn't get out of third gear)?
Due to the engine and other background noise when you are riding it's often difficult to hear what you are saying.
Hi Lab yep was hardly outta 2nd/3rd gear as the rev's drop below 3k otherwise trying to keep her in that smooth spot haha!
Hoping to get a better microphone that will plug into the GoPro once some of my Japanese two strokes are sold starting with my Yamaha RD250LC
This one's me just chatting next to the bike about some of the issues I found after yesterday's ride bit of polishing an sorted the cable routing out an gaitors looks miles better so thanks for that pic mate!
In your other videos when it looks like it's in 4th gear, the speedo doesn't seem to be showing more than about an indicated 50 MPH at 4000 RPM and about 40 MPH in 3rd. On standard gearing I'd expect it to be reading 10 - 15 MPH faster in top.
Or, it could be the speedo is reading slow?
Or the tacho reading fast?
Next time I'm out mate I'll call the gears outloud that I'm in be interesting know the speedo is accurate as keep checking it against dads suzuki.
Ordered a few bits today
Got the propper 4 stroke 2 clip position needles and matching 4 stroke 106 needle jets an new jet holders + a few carb gaskets from Amal.
Gonna place a decent order tomorrow from Andover Norton gasket on the fuel cap has failed so gonna get that + a head an base gasket so I have them to hand.
Thinking of replacing the tuffnel carb insulators as well as I've never done them.
Slowly getting there with her though !
Was a bit of metal on the magnetic plugs so going to run her on the new oil then drop it again very shortly just incase. It had never had magnetic plugs in either of the tanks before I got her.
New oil came Castrol 20-50 classic an ep90 Castrol classic for the gearbox.
IMG_20190713_194759578-03-01 by norton.rider, on Flickr
Why replace the carb insulators?
At the rate gaskets and stuff have been failing thought I might as well do them while the carbs / head is off look a little worse for wear and I'm still chasing a missfire on the l/h side.
The only thing I've been trying to find is the bolt and sealing washer that runs through oil pipes junction box assy on the 68' couldn't see it on the Andover website for the 68 can see it on the later parts books as a Whit bolt.
Ordering a new parts book on this order.
Just putting the rest of the order together ready to order.
One thing I was wondering the oil feed pipes on the 68' Did they have clips on originally if so what type currently got the jubilee clips the previous owner left on.
You do need to remove those jubilee clips. Anything looks better than those. I use fuel injection clips. If you squint you can see them here.
One of the few remaining bits of connecting HW I left on my bike after a full restoration was those junction block jubilee clips. It just felt so right putting them back on the Maney junction block. I know... I am a weirdo.
Thanks guys! I actually bought some injection clips the other day for the breather gonna get some for the new oil block just placed the order before including the correct whit bolt.
Quite a lot of bits on the way new fuel taps, fuel cap inner, insulators, needle jets, needles, head gasket an base gasket, oil junction box, breather elbow few other bits Can't wait for it all to turn up an get stuck in.
Making steady progress through all the bodges and issues from the previous owner.
One thing I do really want to fix is the leads I got from Andover although looking brilliant as they are one piece they are to short for my 68' Frame and touching the head slightly so whether that's causing a few issues.
Who's everyone using in the uk for spark plug leads and caps an connectors to fit the pvl coils? Does anyone know if IW22 Denso's are resister plugs?
If the jets an the other bit's don't cure the issue it's head off time. Actually spotted something I'm not to happy about after having the left hand exhaust removed yesterday, looks like part of the exhaust valve guide has a bit of either wear or a chunk out of it from what I can see of the valves an rockers they all look new/ok but may be old damage and someone hasn't replaced the guides.
Ideally if I can get the plugs to stop fouling I'll do the head over winter.
Not sure what ignition you are using, but I had a problem with fouling on one of the plugs. I was running a Trispark, and it turned out one of the new resistor caps I had installed was bad and reading WAY more R than the 5k ohms than they should be. So, you may what to put a DMM on them just to validate they are where they should be.
Denso 5307 IW22 are Resistor Value: 5K Ohm
Ahh now that is interesting I'm running a Tri Spark as well.
I'll measure them in the morning and report back got me curious now!
Thanks for the comment.
I've made up my own copper cored HT leads with resistor NGK caps for years as I've never been too bothered about originality where HT leads are concerned.
You will probably find those Andover Norton leads do not have resistor caps. Not sure if the HT cable is resistor type or not and the caps may be crimped to the leads?
I assume you have been using resistor plugs with the Tri-Spark up to now?
I've got one of those sinking feelings that I've epic screwed up when I swapped to the champions totally my fault just checking the leads out an shall report back.
Usually I'd run a multimeter across them but forgot to do it this time round first job in the morning. An I'll report back I know I used the test spark function the other day an had a really good one an everything else checked out on the tri spark tests. I'll repeat them in the morning.
Gonna make some new leads up an run the iw22's which I believe are a resistor plug Hopefully I've got away with it.
Yeah, you dont want R caps and R plugs with a TS...
You need to add this company to your contacts list norton_rider:
You can get your Denso or NGK or Champion plugs as well as plug leads and caps in either resistor or none resistor types.
Here’s a tip for you: buy both resistor and none resistor plug caps so you can swap for different plugs. Make sure both types are the simple screw in type so they’re easy to change. Buy red caps for resistor and black caps for none resistor to avoid confusion.
Thanks Eddie an gortnipper really appreciate the advice Gonna get the parts ordered for the leads in a moment.
The only ones I can find on the AN website are the 06.2263 type which probably would be too short for the widowmaker frame-mounted coils. They are "wirewound conductor" so probably suppressed cable which will be so many ohms per inch/foot/metre/whatever and not very long so I don't know if they would be considered to have adequate resistance (for a TriSpark)?
I have some 'Commando' HTs with those same rubber caps but copper-cored cables.