No ignition , blown battery fuse .

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Shelby-Right said:
So to make it full discharged, put a light bulb across it ? , and when it's discharged should it have have continuity ?
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Testing procedure for the capacitor is found in the workshop manual (which is downloadable from the Technical Info sticky thread in this forum group section).
I think it was something like apply 12v to the capacitor, disconnect it and check for voltage after five minutes, if present, it is storing and supplying charge as the Prince of Darkness Lord Lucas intended.
 
Thanks, can someone tell me if the shindegen sh775 can be hooked up easily, or does the whole system need to be changed to negative earth , or can you hook it up a special way for the positive earth .
 
Shelby-Right said:
Thanks, can someone tell me if the shindegen sh775 can be hooked up easily, or does the whole system need to be changed to negative earth , or can you hook it up a special way for the positive earth .
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All reg/recs are not polarity sensitive b/c they recieve AC power from the alt, and have a + and a - wire coming out that connect to whatever bike setup you have.
Only issues I have with the Shindegen unit is price/availability/knock-offs/size for easy fitment.
 
MexicoMike said:
FWIW, I few year ago I replaced the OEM Norton rectifier/Zener with a Podtronics and the result was .2V less voltage at every RPM than the rectifier/zener. At low/idle speed, this is the difference between charging the battery and discharging the battery. Don't assume that "new and modern" means it actually works better - or even as well - as the OEM stuff... ;)
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Amen. And HARNESS REPLACEMENT should be justified, not a guessing game.
 
My DMM has capacitor test as a function. Works great to test capacitors. Might want to try a good meter.
 
A DMM in its capacitor check position can only determine if a cap is open or shorted. Obviously, that may be sufficient. But they cannot determine if a cap is good or bad under load in the circuit. IOW, a cap may check out OK with a DMM but fail in operation. Absent a real capacitor checker, the traditional best test for a suspicious capacitor is substitution with a known good one.
 
mdt-son said:
Capacitors have a finite life. There is a Lucas workshop manual available for your bike. Testing procedure is probably in there.

- Knut
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Mine tested good as per workshop guide some 48 yrs after manufacture :-) thats a pretty descent finite life right there!
 
MexicoMike said:
A DMM in its capacitor check position can only determine if a cap is open or shorted. Obviously, that may be sufficient. But they cannot determine if a cap is good or bad under load in the circuit. IOW, a cap may check out OK with a DMM but fail in operation. Absent a real capacitor checker, the traditional best test for a suspicious capacitor is substitution with a known good one.
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My DMM will check the capacitance in microfarads. For instance, if I attach my leads to the terminals my meter will tell me how many microfarads the capacitor has available and if it matches the capacitor rating, it’s more than likely good. If, however, you read 0 microfarads it means the capacitor is open and bad. A shorted capacitor should be visibly obvious by the bulging of the can. I do agree that the quickest and easiest check is to replace with a known good one.
 
Thanks Larry , but without a ready source of the zener diode s etc , I thought from some of the replies that the podronics reg was the best solution, and it was , as far as availability , and I have since read some other posts on the way it regulates which doesn't sound too good , at least there a few members that have racked up a lot of miles with no issue ! ,it will have to do for now , "till the stator blows" then it might be time to upgrade to the 3 phase and a Shindengen type . Cheers.
 
Worntorn recently did temperature tests after actual bike runs on the stator showing any heat from reg shorting was very minor. In line with bench testing results i've seen from an old post. Plus decades of owner miles on these setups.
 
Larry S said:
My DMM will check the capacitance in microfarads.
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Yes but just keep in mind that the DMM does not apply working voltage or test for leakage. So it's possible to have a good mF reading but a bad cap. I run into this all time working on vintage audio gear. Heck, for that matter, nowadays brand new caps sometime will not meet their voltage spec without excessive leakage.

I've gotten into the habit of checking all new caps for voltage/leakage with a cap checker before installing one...
 
If you go to LEDs on all your lamps, the required power is lower than original. At this point are you making more power than you need and your zener will be passing a lot in heat? I ask because my zener is getting hot immediately after start. There is no problem so far with the battery losing power whilst standing ignition off.
 
I am fitting this podronics reg, I run standard lamps (bulbs grow in the ground) and they are always on .cheers
 
Onder said:
If you go to LEDs on all your lamps, the required power is lower than original. At this point are you making more power than you need and your zener will be passing a lot in heat? I ask because my zener is getting hot immediately after start. There is no problem so far with the battery losing power whilst standing ignition off.
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My zener died and cooked/bloated the battery. This was running led headlight and tail/brake lights. Got home on the capcitor but got dodgey. When I had turn signals on at idling at traffic lights
 
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