Next Electrical Move?

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dfndr

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Jun 2, 2008
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My Mk III is going great. Since purchasing it with no working starter I've followed the learned ones' advice on the forum and did: Pazon, all three 'hard parts', DynoDave starter(although I'm not happy that he never answered any questions), heavy battery and cables. It all works sweet. Now, I'm concerned about the battery being run down on my urban rides with headlight on. Do I need to be concerned about it with this setup?

If there is a concern I think I understand there are two possible fixes: One is to use a digital tail light, which might be a simple fix: the other is to install Sparx alternator, which could be complicated.

Guys, I don't want to mess up what's working good! What you think?

Thanks, Rick
 
electrical fix

heres a easier fix throw it on the battery tender when not riding battery will stay juiced up
 
FWIW, the Sparx alternator installation is easy. And the thing works great.
 
Can anyone tell me if the digital tail light is the best way to go or not for this fix? Thanks
 
dfndr said:
Can anyone tell me if the digital tail light is the best way to go or not for this fix? Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes it can but only if the rest is up to scratch. I bit the bullet and went 3 phase yonks ago best electrical move ever.

Cash
 
Someone please correct me if I am wrong but I think it is a band aid to the problem.
The Mark III alternator is the higher output 180w. The problem is it doesn't reach this till about 1800 rpm.
True the taillight mod will reduce the draw but the headlight, electronic ig. will still be causing a negative draw at idle. If your headlight is Halogen, it's worse yet.

A big strong battery with high reserve and or LED taillgiht will help, but a 3 phase will totally solve it.

I would save the money for a 3 phase.

My $.02
 
Plus, I am having a problem finding an LED taillight bulb that works when pointing down as do the bulbs in the later Commandos. Let me know if you come up with a good bulb as most are designed to work correctly when pointing to the rear and not down.
 
Up until last summer i ran all my electrical ( starter , halogen headlight , factory tailight ) using the stock wiring / charging system on my MKIII without any issues what so ever. Best i can suggest is to hook up a multi meter to your battery and go for a ride and monitor battery voltage

I opted for the Sparx system so i could utilize my electric clothing and run my GPS ( tired of getting lost going to Norton rally's ) Both work well :D
 
Can anyone tell me if there is any advantage to using a Podtronics single phase regulator/rectifier with the Mk3 (RM23 - 1 phase 180watt) rotor and stator over the stock half wave rectifier and paired zener diodes?

Will this give more amps at lower rpm? I know the three-phase RM24 - 3 phase 180 watt is the top performer, but was wondering if a simple change to the electronic regulator/rectifier gains any low rpm amperage.
 
In my experience it does not help.
It does make a cleaner installation.
 
Ron L said:
Will this give more amps at lower rpm? I know the three-phase RM24 - 3 phase 180 watt is the top performer, but was wondering if a simple change to the electronic regulator/rectifier gains any low rpm amperage.
Click to expand...

I put a single phase podtronics with a Boyer system and the stock, old alternator on my 73 850. Now, at idle, the charging light (i.e. it isn't charging, but pulling from the battery) comes on. It didn't do that before with the stock, old rectifier, zener and points. It could be that my alternator is weak. I don't have an ammeter to hook up to see exactly what's happening. Above 1000 rpm it seems OK, but at idle of about 750 rpm it doesn't seem to be charging.

So, that's a long answer to your question, but from my experience I'd say that the change will not improve your low rpm amperage.
 
Corona850 said:
I put a single phase podtronics with a Boyer system and the stock, old alternator on my 73 850. Now, at idle, the charging light (i.e. it isn't charging, but pulling from the battery) comes on. It didn't do that before with the stock, old rectifier, zener and points. It could be that my alternator is weak. I don't have an ammeter to hook up to see exactly what's happening. Above 1000 rpm it seems OK, but at idle of about 750 rpm it doesn't seem to be charging.
Click to expand...


Fitting the Podtronic unit and Boyer could possibly have altered the behaviour of the assimilator in some way? As it is only a rather crude electro-mechanical switching device that switches the warning light either on or off by sensing AC output from one of the stator wires.
The assimilator doesn't work by sensing the amount of DC output, and I wouldn't expect the standard single-phase system to actually start charging the battery until around 1,500+ RPM, (depending on the electrical load)?

A Boyer ignition will also consume more power than points.
 
I got my LED rearlight assembly with postitive ground from the UK. (just google Norton LED rear light) Still around $50 anadian to purchase and send. At the same time I also installed a Halogen bulb in the headlight.
Result? A lot more light in the front (which is nice with these darker days in winter) but certainly not more light in the back (about the same I guess)
What I save on energy in the back I spill again in the front. Still need to charge my new battery after every trip. Should save up for a 3 phase I guess...
 
Running negative is gambling....a bit less so for those w/o boyers, but still...

I say, get a modern alternator (I like the Sparx, but it ain't the only one) and never look back....

Only Lucas bits on my machine are the taillight (which has never given me a problem) and the handlebar switches (which have, and do....)

Concours? Nope. Reliable, loveable sport-tourer? Yup.
 
Thank you all for the advice. I'm going to continue to follow the collective experience of you all and do this bike right. As soon as I can I'm putting on the Sparx alternater. Then I'll come back and read all the posts on improving the headlight. Thanks aain. Rick
 
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