1) unplug leads from stator to main harness and pull them through the grommet. You may need to orient bullet connectors so they are pulled through one at a time as it is a tight fit.
2) Remove the four nuts retaining the stator and pull the stator off the four studs.
3) Remove the large nut retaining the rotor to the end of the crank. You will either need an impact wrench or lock the primary chain with a piece of hardwood to remove the nut with a wrench or socket.
Mount the new rotor and torque the center nut.
4) Slide the new stator over the studs, using the same spacers,washers, and nuts from the original. The cable should be emerge from the outer surface at about the 5 o'clock position. Using non-magnetic (brass) feeler gauges assure you have 0.008-0.010 inch clearance between the rotor and stator completely around the circumference.
5) While this is an optional step, it makes for a cleaner installation. Remove the wires from the rectifier and remove the rectifier. Tape back the wires to the main harness. Remove the wires from each of the two zener diodes on the Z-plates and tape them back to the harness. Remove the zener diodes and fill the hole with a nice polished stainless 1/4 inch bolt.
6) Decide on a suitable location to mount the new regulator/rectifier. This can be on the battery tray or any suitable spot. I don't like mounting them on the side cover or seat pan as they then must be disconnected when removing the seat or cover. I often make a simple aluminum bracket to bolt to the battery tray and mount the regulator/rectifier vertically.
7) Usually the grommet in the inner primary cover is hard and you now need to put three wires where there were two. I have been able to force the wires into a new grommet, but usually I will get a larger grommet or carefully drill the hole in the grommet larger to accept the cable. Many people seal this with RTV, but I don't find it necessary.
8 ) There should be sufficient wire length to connect the three leads from the stator to the three yellow leads of the regulator/rectifier, depending on where you decide to mount it.
9) Connect the black regulator/rectifier lead to the negative side of the battery and the red lead to a good ground or the positive side of the battery.
10) You will now find that your charge indicator light no longer works. Some people have found that connecting two of the yellow leads from the alternator to where the Green/Yellow and White/Green wires on the solid state assimilator restore the function. I have not had any luck with that, possibly due to a problem with the assimilator. In any event I remove the assimilator and tape back the wiring and install a "voltage switch" which turns on the charge light when the voltage is less than something like 11.5 volts, and goes out above 11.5. This is not much better than the original assimilator, but is easy to wire as it goes across the battery (or any normally powered wire and a suitable ground), and a wire to feed the light.
You could also wire in an ammeter or voltmeter, whatever you want.
OK guys what have I forgotten to mention here?
