New member just got a '66 N15CS

If you are going to use the magneto(assuming you build the bike), I'd be interested in the coils and bracket. You won't use them with the mag. At least could you post a close up of them? Missing from a 68 G15 I'm working on.
Bill
 
milfordite said:
If you are going to use the magneto(assuming you build the bike), I'd be interested in the coils and bracket. You won't use them with the mag. At least could you post a close up of them? Missing from a 68 G15 I'm working on.
Bill
Click to expand...

GPZKAT

Please post some close-ups and a ruler, to allow a repro to be fabricated. You seem to have the Lucas 45110 type of coils there.

However, look at
www.ebay.com

LUCAS TYPE COIL BRACKET FOR MA6 MA12 48MM IGNITION COIL REPLACES PN# 68-4093 W | eBay

Large size 48mm coil brackets as used on MA6 & MA12 Lucas coils. Replaces BSA PN # 68-4093 as used on 1962-69 BSA A50 & A65 models.
www.ebay.com

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
OK here are some photos, hope they help. I blew the cobwebs and sawdust off with compressed air. They are crusty.

Disclaimers:

  1. I'm ignorant on Nortons, this being my first. I have no idea where this came from and if it's correct for the N15CS but it does say 'Lucas England' so there's a chance!
  2. I don't know what to do about my ignition yet.
  3. There is a dent in one of the coils, and I have no idea if these work.
That said, maybe if these have some value I can work out a trade, I certainly need some parts.

New member just got a '66 N15CS


New member just got a '66 N15CS


New member just got a '66 N15CS


New member just got a '66 N15CS


New member just got a '66 N15CS
 
Last edited:
I doubt these are the genuine parts. Coils appear to be Lucas 17M6 (45220A )(6V), the bracket looks to be off an early Commando (062231). A ballast resistor was not fitted to any G/N15 model to my knowledge.

45220A has a diameter of 40mm whereas 45110 (12V) or 45152 (6V) measures 48mm.

-Knut
 
Last edited:
gpzkat said:
OK here are some photos, hope they help. I blew the cobwebs and sawdust off with compressed air. They are crusty.

Disclaimers:

  1. I'm ignorant on Nortons, this being my first. I have no idea where this came from and if it's correct for the N15CS but it does say 'Lucas England' so there's a chance!
  2. I don't know what to do about my ignition yet.
  3. There is a dent in one of the coils, and I have no idea if these work.
That said, maybe if these have some value I can work out a trade, I certainly need some parts.

New member just got a '66 N15CS


New member just got a '66 N15CS


New member just got a '66 N15CS


New member just got a '66 N15CS


New member just got a '66 N15CS
Click to expand...
Thank you for photos. That set is from a Commando. You wouldn't use them on a N15.
 
OK thanks, looks like it won't be of use on the 68 N15CS. I have some hodgepodge parts in the pile, not a lot, but some critical ones didn't match, like my triple tree which I have to source.

I had a cool 'discovery' on the oil and fuel tank paint - both were signed 'Bartee '94' on the back sides. I found a FB page for a business and also personal one of a very talented painter Timothy Bartee - lots of bike stuff, very nicely done. He has a company 'Designs in Lines' in Riverside CA, and had posted about the oil tank just a couple days before I bought the bike in September. He said 'due to a series of unforeseen circumstances' the owner had picked up the gas tank a few years ago but not the oil tank ($ ?) and he didn't have a pic of the fuel tank to share. Well now he does as I sent one to him. He is only one county over to me and when I get a replacement side cover I'll have him match it to the oil tank. I guess the PO was tying up loose ends and moving on (leaving the state).
 
Thank you on the eBay link, I had seen some others and price was ridiculous. Just bid on it.

My fork stancions look shot, chrome appears to be gone mostly. I don't think they can be salvaged with buffing/polishing due to loss of chrome.
 
gpzkat said:
Thank you on the eBay link, I had seen some others and price was ridiculous. Just bid on it.

My fork stancions look shot, chrome appears to be gone mostly. I don't think they can be salvaged with buffing/polishing due to loss of chrome.
Click to expand...
Stancions are Hard Chrome, not chrome plated theres a big difference.
Chrome is ground back, in centreless grinder, checked for straight ness first, hard chromed and reground back to correct o/d.
 
Bernhard said:
Stancions are Hard Chrome, not chrome plated theres a big difference.
Chrome is ground back, in centreless grinder, checked for straight ness first, hard chromed and reground back to correct o/d.
Click to expand...
Absolutely Bernard, understood, was just using shorthand. I've had good luck on my Japanese bikes with careful polishing and then keeping an eye on them so the troubles don't return. I park in a garage in a dry climate so that helps a lot. But these look like they may be too worn and corroded.
 
gpzkat said:
Absolutely Bernard, understood, was just using shorthand. I've had good luck on my Japanese bikes with careful polishing and then keeping an eye on them so the troubles don't return. I park in a garage in a dry climate so that helps a lot. But these look like they may be too worn and corroded.
Click to expand...
The bad surface is neither here nor there, it's what the metal tube looks like after the hard chrome has been removed.
BT W my name hasn't changed since the day I was born, it still has a "h " in the middle .....I'm just saying.
 
Bernhard said:
The bad surface is neither here nor there, it's what the metal tube looks like after the hard chrome has been removed.
BT W my name hasn't changed since the day I was born, it still has a "h " in the middle .....I'm just saying.
Click to expand...

OK - it actually looks decent, just surface pitting that comes off fairly easily, tried a bit of wet sanding up high above the lower yoke to check.

I realized Bernhard was missing the 'h' after 1st posting and edited it, but it didn't save my fix for some reason.
 
I am trying to get the front end together, hope to win auction on pair of reasonably priced headlight brackets. I see the crown & column assy described as a separate number for N15CS, but am not sure of the difference the 030026 vs the N15CS specific 030499. Maybe I can use either. I am guessing it may be whether or not it has a fork lock.

Anyone know? I don't believe the N15CS has a fork lock based on pics I've seen on eBay selling one (unfortunately just the top) that is has no lock.

New member just got a '66 N15CS
 
gpzkat said:
I am trying to get the front end together, hope to win auction on pair of reasonably priced headlight brackets. I see the crown & column assy described as a separate number for N15CS, but am not sure of the difference the 030026 vs the N15CS specific 030499. Maybe I can use either. I am guessing it may be whether or not it has a fork lock.Anyone know? I don't believe the N15CS has a fork lock based on pics I've seen on eBay selling one (unfortunately just the top) that is has no lock.
Click to expand...

That's right. G/N15CS were supplied without a fork lock. That affects the upper yoke though.

The difference between 030499 and 030026 is the pinch studs vs. pinch studs. :-)
030026 has threads in the yoke part, so pinch bolts have one nut each.
On 030499, the factory drilled a larger hole though and fitted longer studs and 2 nuts per stud.
The reason for this was concern that frequent fork tube (stanchion) replacements would be cumbersome with the pinch bolts in place. Removing the studs on 030026 is cumbersome!
It's much easier to drive a wedge into the crown (lower yoke) when pinch bolts have been removed.
On the other hand, 030026 looks less "agricultural" and suits a roadster better. The reasoning may have been that if a road bike crashes at speed, the yokes will likely have to be replaced anyway, so why care about the stud bolts?

Up to 1966, the G/N15CS used 030026. I guess the alteration came about by request of the american dealer network struggling to replace bent fork tubes.

In response to your question, fitting 030026 on a G/N15CS will not alter steering geometry. However, if you want to make it look right, you should fit 030499.

-Knut
 
Just... wow. Thanks! I see a set on eBay with starting bid at $120 and they are the 030026 type. I think I can see what you are saying, the captured nut gets in the way (?)

ebay link

Now I have to decide if I can swing this, which is 80% of what I paid for a nearly complete bike! Plus bearings etc to buy.
 
gpzkat said:
Just... wow. Thanks! I see a set on eBay with starting bid at $120 and they are the 030026 type. I think I can see what you are saying, the captured nut gets in the way (?)
Click to expand...

What do you mean by "captured nut"? Do you mean captive nut? 030499 has 4 regular nuts. There are currently 2 complete forks off G15CS's for sale at eBay, one of which is for a '66. Lower yoke is of the correct type.
As for the triple tree you are referring to, yes it does seem to have 2 nuts only (the glare makes it hard to see - please ask seller). The set is probably off a '64 or '65 model year bike.
Due to the presence of a steering lock, I suspect the set was originally fitted to a Dominator (650SS, Atlas) or G15Mk2 / G15CSR. The steering lock may have been retrofitted of course.

-Knut
 
Last edited:
mdt-son said:
What do you mean by "captured nut"? Do you mean captive nut? 030499 has 4 regular nuts. There are currently 2 complete forks off G15CS's for sale at eBay, one of which is for a '66. Lower yoke is of the correct type.
As for the triple tree you are referring to, yes it does seem to have 2 nuts only (the glare makes it hard to see - please ask seller). The set is probably off a '64 or '65 model year bike.
Due to the presence of a steering lock, I suspect the set was originally fitted to a Dominator (650SS, Atlas) or G15Mk2 / G15CSR. The steering lock may have been retrofitted of course.

-Knut
Click to expand...
Captive not captured. Thanks.
 
Me too...1966 G15 CS May 2020 up here in Seattle. I've been working on it since June and af ter many hours I am nearly ready to attempt the first start. But mine was fully assembled when I got it...gast tank, seat, battery side cover and exhaust removed.

For parts I have used: andover-norton.com and classicmotorcyclespares.com in England, Baxter Cycle USA, SteadfastCycles,com here in WA state. (the ship fast so I get parts in 2 days), Old Britts (also in Wa), from some individuals on eBay. I have not had a problem locating parts, often getting to shop for price or fast delivery.

Oh...I have the mufflers. They are structurally sound but chrome is mostly gone and I found a NOS set on eBay for $200. They are the "cocktaqil shaker" type swept back. I'd let them go cheap if you are interested. I just could not find reasonably price chroming up here.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

Ironracer
  • Locked
New member just starting out
2
Replies
24
Views
2,228
Fast Eddie
Fast Eddie
Back
Top