New fairing

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acadian

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Picked up a Laverda fairing at a decent price, I liked the nose down look of it and the flat bottom line. It came pre drilled for the screen and included the well nuts to secure it. I "just" had to fabricate the mounting bracket/headlamp combo, so I based the design off some of the universal mounts commonly available. 4 mock ups later and I finally got the stem bracket angle correct so that the bottom of the fairing lined up with the bottom of the tank, and to get the headlamp clamp sized correctly in order to clear the stanchions.

Here's the bracket I fabricated, it's just some 2.25" tail pipe and tubing, the headlamp bracket uses a 9/16" clevis pin that slides into the stem tube to provide adjustment (I'm not winning any welding awards anytime soon)

New fairing


Test fitting the fairing and screen

New fairing


Upper fairing stay fabricated and fork top nut machined, I used a small 1/4" id bearing in here, the unit is threaded into the top nut

New fairing


Painted and installed with lower fairing supports coming off the front tank mounts

New fairing
 
Picked up a Laverda fairing at a decent price, I liked the nose down look of it and the flat bottom line. It came pre drilled for the screen and included the well nuts to secure it. I "just" had to fabricate the mounting bracket/headlamp combo, so I based the design off some of the universal mounts commonly available. 4 mock ups later and I finally got the stem bracket angle correct so that the bottom of the fairing lined up with the bottom of the tank, and to get the headlamp clamp sized correctly in order to clear the stanchions.

Here's the bracket I fabricated, it's just some 2.25" tail pipe and tubing, the headlamp bracket uses a 9/16" clevis pin that slides into the stem tube to provide adjustment (I'm not winning any welding awards anytime soon)

View attachment 13865

Test fitting the fairing and screen

View attachment 13868

Upper fairing stay fabricated and fork top nut machined, I used a small 1/4" id bearing in here, the unit is threaded into the top nut

View attachment 13869

Painted and installed with lower fairing supports coming off the front tank mounts

View attachment 13870


Nicely done.
Ride On
Dave
 
I had to modify my fairing bracket too. First, I mounted it the way it came, then calculated how much and in which directions I want to adjust the fairing position to change, and then I cut it apart to rebuild it. Mine was originally a single arm bracketwith a "T" on it's end. I changed it to a forked arm bracket like you have. I lowered the fairing's mounted position 1 inch and angled it forward 1 inch too.

One of the other things I did was have steel bar stock welded onto the yoke face plate to extend down in front of the yoke's steering stops to shorten the swing of the yokes so my lowered handlebars wouldn't dent my tank... Something you may need to do also.
 
I had to modify my fairing bracket too. First, I mounted it the way it came, then calculated how much and in which directions I want to adjust the fairing position to change, and then I cut it apart to rebuild it. Mine was originally a single arm bracketwith a "T" on it's end. I changed it to a forked arm bracket like you have. I lowered the fairing's mounted position 1 inch and angled it forward 1 inch too.

One of the other things I did was have steel bar stock welded onto the yoke face plate to extend down in front of the yoke's steering stops to shorten the swing of the yokes so my lowered handlebars wouldn't dent my tank... Something you may need to do also.

I know the single arm bracket you're referring to, it's one of the styles I consulted while designing this one, clubman sells a similar "A" frame bracket but the headlamp portion is tubular and much bulkier. I just bent up small "L" brackets and machined slots into them, they slide under the headlamp bolts and support the front face of the fairing (bolts through the front with T nuts from behind)

My yokes are RGM units that use bolt in hex bars as steering stops, reducing the steering swing was simply a matter of swapping out for larger hex stock.

Not sure if you found interference between the bracket and the rivets for the headstock plate, but I had to cut out reliefs in my bracket to clear them
 
I used a layer of rubber from an old tire underneath the face of the steering head bracket which counteracted the offset that the rivets on the ID plate imparted to the bracket on my first attempt to bolt the bracket in place.

I also made a second bracket which is mounted on my frame down tubes with rubber vibration dampening U bolts. The lower bracket plate has support arms out of 1/2" square tube that project upward slightly and out to the side, to fasten the lower wings of the fairing about at the midpoint of their length. Between the headstock support and the lower support, you could do a "chin up" on my fairing and it's going nowhere... I drew the lower bracket's design full sized on a piece of 1/4" plywood and just brought the drawing and the material to my welder which he just welded up right on top of my layout.

When I researched fairings,I thought the dunstall fairing lower supports that I saw looked flimsy, so I made a better one..
 
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