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New Chrome & Polished Alloy Protection
- Thread starter thunderbolt
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Yes, 850 mudguards (except Interpol) were magnetic stainless.
Chrome (especially 'quality chrome') would require NOTHING in my experience. Chrome is so forgiving and easy...
Alloy - Unless the polishing was done 'right' only an anaerobic environment (no oxygen to oxidize) will keep the shine. I tried various waxes, protectants ("ZOOP), etc.,. on the first pieces I polished (poorly), but there is nothing like meticulous polishing to make any preservative work better and longer.
Stainless Steel - I use this substance for fasteners and rims. IMO on large surface parts (e.g. fenders, chainguards) it looks slightly wrong - 'chrome-like', but not chrome; 'polished alloy-like', but not alloy. And if you've ever tried to polish a large stainless piece, you will wonder whose idea this was! OTOH stainless makes sense for rims. Every aged Dunlop rim I've disassembled has substantial corrosion on the rim's inner, unseen surface.
I'm guessing the OP has little worry for what I'd call brief storage.
PS I see youtube vids where people polish INDOORS (e.g. in bedrooms!). I don't even like to polish on my PROPERTY the 'effin mess is so severe!
YRMV
Bill Walker
Alloy - Unless the polishing was done 'right' only an anaerobic environment (no oxygen to oxidize) will keep the shine. I tried various waxes, protectants ("ZOOP), etc.,. on the first pieces I polished (poorly), but there is nothing like meticulous polishing to make any preservative work better and longer.
Stainless Steel - I use this substance for fasteners and rims. IMO on large surface parts (e.g. fenders, chainguards) it looks slightly wrong - 'chrome-like', but not chrome; 'polished alloy-like', but not alloy. And if you've ever tried to polish a large stainless piece, you will wonder whose idea this was! OTOH stainless makes sense for rims. Every aged Dunlop rim I've disassembled has substantial corrosion on the rim's inner, unseen surface.
I'm guessing the OP has little worry for what I'd call brief storage.
PS I see youtube vids where people polish INDOORS (e.g. in bedrooms!). I don't even like to polish on my PROPERTY the 'effin mess is so severe!
YRMV
Bill Walker
maylar
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My buffing station is a home made setup that hangs on the garage wall. Face shield, white gloves and an apron are nearby.
It also serves as a grinder for sharpening chisels and such. The retractable tool rest is for that. Motor is 5/8 HP and hangs on hinges. The weight of the motor tensions the belt. The size of your buffs is a direct relation to how much power you have available. I use 8"x 1/2" buffs, anything wider (like doubling up) can stall the motor. Gloves are necessary because parts get HOT while buffing.
It does a fine job...
maylar
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Yup. That's one reason for the face shield. You learn after a while how to present an item to the wheel - don't allow an edge to get caught else you might have a projectile.
I bought all my implements from the ever-pricey Eastwood (I would shop around today however for same quality at lower prices). I have oodles of compounds in various shapes (round tubes, sausage-bag-like tubes and bars), colors (white, brown, gray, red, orange-red and black), indications ("for stainless steel", or "for soft metals like gold") and effects ("cut", "color"). I have wheels in various diameters (6" and 10") and of various materials/designs ("sisal", "spiral sewn", "loose cotton"). My primary wheel is (more like "was" - I think I'm forever through polishing) an Eastwood 3/4hp 2 speed. I don't think my equipment was limiting my results.
I finally got better results when I spent most time progressively sanding before polishing. Alloy has the advantage of not flash oxidizing like ferrous metals so wet sanding with finer grits (up to 1000) is possible. Next was to use WAY less compound applied frequently. And if the first "cut" doesn't shine I stop and re-sand.
I didn't just let it rip. I read some, watched some YouTube and even bought an Eastwood video (or 2, I can't recall now). I used a different wheel for each compound, a different rake for each compound and even used distilled water at one point! Not until I sanded more and 'lubed' my wheels less (not more than a second) did I finally get satisfactory results. If you see black 'grease' after cutting you're using TOO MUCH COMPOUND!
I've come to believe that with my buffer, the compound source is not significant (I have used Harbor Freight's compounds and they seem fine). It's technique. And for anyone learning polishing, PLEASE BE CAREFUL. The angular momentum of a 10" wheel (I don't know the mass) rotating at 3450 rpm is enough to launch a piece at pace!
BW
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Thanks for the replies.This is my set-up that I have been using for quite a while.3/4hp motor. I want to try to polish my stainless fenders to remove minor scratches this winter and after reading what BW said I will try the wet sanding first and not use so much compound. I have also watched various YouTube videos but didn’t see anything new.Larger pieces are no fun!
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
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maylar
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