New amal premiers wont stay idling

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Torontonian said:
Betcha it's cables ! :idea:
Click to expand...

This should not come into play with idle adjustment if the slide stop screws (idle screws) and the air mixture is adjusted correctly.

Throttling up (sync) yes. Cable tension and sync should be adjusted after proper idle is set.

Stalling out as indicated by the OP means the slides are not set high enough or the air mixture is out of adjustment or both.

The sequence the OP gave is not correct...setting the sync (ghetto) prior to adjusting the idle is backwards in my opinion.
 
I tinkered for awhile tonight. I turned the air screws in to 1 1/4 turns and was able to get an idle of about 1000 rpms. It continued to idle for as long as I wanted, although it fluctuated a bit between 1400 and 1000 rpm. I used starting fluid to check for air leaks and found none. I loosened the fuel tank and checked that the cables weren't bound up. Plugs showed it running a bit lean. Went to start it again after awhile to turn the air screws in a bit more, and it wouldn't hold an idle again. The frustrating thing is that there is no consistency. One thing I did note was that every once in awhile the kick start would only go down a little, then kick back and hurt my ankle. The kick back makes me thing that my pazon EI may be slightly advanced, but I wouldn't think that would bring on these inconsistencies. I static timed it at 31 degrees like the instructions said and that worked the last time I set it. I am sorry if I sound like an idiot. I always thought I was mechanically inclined, but the Norton is showing me otherwise.
Josh
 
>>One thing I did note was that every once in awhile the kick start would only go down a little, then kick back and hurt my ankle. The kick back makes me thing that my pazon EI may be slightly advanced, but I wouldn't think that would bring on these inconsistencies. I static timed it at 31 degrees like the instructions said and that worked the last time I set it.<<

The Sure Fire has an excellent retard normally at starting and I've never had a kick back that could have hurt my foot.
Although I don't know quite why it would cause your idling problems I do wonder if your timing is not retarded enough.
 
Was the ignition working correctly before the carbs were changed, or is it a new one. If so I would suspect it to be dodgy.
My 2c.
jug
 
Bowtoy70 said:
I tinkered for awhile tonight. I turned the air screws in to 1 1/4 turns and was able to get an idle of about 1000 rpms. It continued to idle for as long as I wanted, although it fluctuated a bit between 1400 and 1000 rpm. I used starting fluid to check for air leaks and found none. I loosened the fuel tank and checked that the cables weren't bound up. Plugs showed it running a bit lean. Went to start it again after awhile to turn the air screws in a bit more, and it wouldn't hold an idle again. The frustrating thing is that there is no consistency. One thing I did note was that every once in awhile the kick start would only go down a little, then kick back and hurt my ankle. The kick back makes me thing that my pazon EI may be slightly advanced, but I wouldn't think that would bring on these inconsistencies. I static timed it at 31 degrees like the instructions said and that worked the last time I set it. I am sorry if I sound like an idiot. I always thought I was mechanically inclined, but the Norton is showing me otherwise.
Josh
Click to expand...

Josh,

It's hard to tell much from plug color with the fuels now. They all burn pretty clean. Given that you got it to idle for a while, I would suspect contamination in the carbs as others have posted. Pilot circuit is very sensitive to this. Seems this has been happening with new carbs.

Dennis
 
Until you tune the air screws to get the best idle on a fully warm engine it is not setup correctly. Either use a colortune or do it by ear, complication of doing it by ear is you have to do it on one side only with other other plug out and tied to the head so it still sparks. If you still have the issue after tuning then its something else, I would check the carbs out for swarf and misdrilled holes.
 
I had the electronic ignition off to do timing cover seals at the same time I replaced the carbs. I guess my next step will be to pull the carbs and go through them. I just thought the kick back was odd as it has never done that before.
 
I'll put my 2c in. If you haven't cleaned out the idle ports, do that first. You should be able to shoot carb cleaner in one port and get it out the other 2. Shoot it through each one. Also, the air screw turn setting will depend on the float setting, but 1 1/2 out is usually a good start. I'd also check the float setting while you have it apart. Who knows how it came from the factory? Could be way off.
 
I don't see it mentioned in previous posts, but did you file down the carbs before you bolted them on? On the new carbs, the casting sticks out on the sides where the idle screw could go. The old ones were not the same and if you don't file them down the carbs will hit each other and may cause them not to sit flush on the manifold and leak air. Take a quick look and see if they are hitting.
 
milfordite said:
I don't see it mentioned in previous posts, but did you file down the carbs before you bolted them on? On the new carbs, the casting sticks out on the sides where the idle screw could go. The old ones were not the same and if you don't file them down the carbs will hit each other and may cause them not to sit flush on the manifold and leak air. Take a quick look and see if they are hitting.
Click to expand...

If they're Commando specific Prem's they'll be already relieved... if not, will the bolts even go in?
 
After I got home today, I looked at the carbs. It does appear that they are making contact at both the carb/intake flange and on the sides of the carbs. I will pull them off and file them and dissassemble while they are out. Is there a limit to how much to file? Also does anyone recommend a sealant of any sort on the intake/head insulator gaskets or the carb/intake o ring? I will let you know when I get them on and If it helped. Thanks again.
Josh
 
Bowtoy70 said:
After I got home today, I looked at the carbs. It does appear that they are making contact at both the carb/intake flange and on the sides of the carbs. I will pull them off and file them and dissassemble while they are out. Is there a limit to how much to file? Also does anyone recommend a sealant of any sort on the intake/head insulator gaskets or the carb/intake o ring? I will let you know when I get them on and If it helped. Thanks again.
Josh
Click to expand...

File high spot, that all. The oring takes care to the carb to flange and the flange to head does not require sealant, just the special gasket/spacer.

I don't think an air leak is your issue. The tell tale can be if the carbs respond to air screw adjustment or not. If they respond to turning then it might be float and float needle issues. If the carbs do not respond to air screw adjustments, then it is the air/pilot jet and needs to be cleared. New or old type, these air jets are fussy. Make sure your slide needle is in a medium position the start with.
 
I went through the carbs and dremeled them for clearance. I also syced them again and did a complete inspection of the ignition system. After a lot of kicking, I got the bike started. After a bit of adjustment, i can get the bike to idle with a little rpm fluctuation. I used ether to find an air leak at one of the carb/manifold joints. The nuts are tight and the o-ring is new. Any issues with trying a gasket or sealant here? I think after I take care of the air leak I will have the bike running great. Getting tired of pulling carbs though. Thanks
Josh
 
I would double-check valve lash, install fresh spark plugs (gapped), make sure your air filter is clean, then start it with a big fan in front of it and check the timing with a strobe, all the way to full advance.

Sounds like it should be running right after that.
 
you have not stated once yet the size of jets that came with the new carbs, I put new amals on this year and then went about jetting them correctly. I agree about the fuel burn/ plug colour with modern fuels, I will get a colour tune soon and finalise adjustments, as it is a little eratic as is my t100 on twin carbs. there close but could be better.
 
It has the same jetting as my old 932's. #3 slide, 220 main,106 needle, and rj17 pilot. Not sure about the size on the pilot on the old carbs as they are not removable.
 
It sounds more like a fuel supply problem. Friend had a similar problem and I found that ethanol have deteriorated the rubber inside the petcocks to the point that they were clogging up. I have Premiers and they worked great right out of the box. Not to sound condescending but did you sync the carbs properly making sure the slides opened at exactly the same time? Also making sure there is a 1/4 inch gap when the slides are closed all the way? Two important adjustments. Of course having the proper main jets help 260s for the 850 with 3 1\2 inch slides.
 
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