Need to move brake lever closer to bar after 13m MC install

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gortnipper said:
That is part of the reason I want to Brembo brake and clutch mc on the Commando. I had Pazzo shorty cam levers on my Duc and they worked great. I have to have them set differently for each hand.

Old school straight or frog-leg levers, not so great. Well, not really at all in a workable way.

Lots of options that fit the Brembo MC (and I assume Nissin).

Need to move brake lever closer to bar after 13m MC install
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I have some aftermarket adjustable levers on my modern Bonneville. Are there any modern adjustable levers that can be fit or made to fit our classic MC/Clutch perches?
 
I severely doubt it.

There is a RGM Honda lever, but I doubt any of the adjustable lever makers would have an application for that.

www.rgmnorton.co.uk

BRAKE LEVER (HONDA) TO SUIT OUR UNIVERSAL FRONT MASTER CYLINDER

JAPANESE MADE ALUMINIUM BRAKE LEVER WITH PROTECTIVE CLEAR PLASTIC SLEEVE AND BLACK RUBBER BALL END TO SUIT OUR UNIVERSAL FRONT MASTER CYLINDER PART NUMBER
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

Maybe some one like Pazzo (Vancouver, BC) would do a one off if you sent them 10x stock clutch/brake levers and they could match their existing lever (short or long) and cam mechanism to a machined down base of our stock levers. I dont know if they would even entertain it or if it would be cost effective.

1654214199070.png


Another option would be to find someone in our community here with the machine skills to do that using a standard cheaper adjustable donor levers, and using new stock Norton levers provided by customers as a core.

You wouldnt need to fully machine the pivot block and hole as above, just the interface for the cam/handle.

When I crashed my Norton last year and broke my shoulder, it rashed up the clutch lever. I got a new one from Pazzo and they sent me the wrong pivot block. All I did was swap the lever part to my existing pivot block, which was fine.

Either of these options would likely to need a group buy to be feasible.
 
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gortnipper said:
I severely doubt it.

There is a RGM Honda lever, but I doubt any of the adjustable lever makers would have an application for that.

www.rgmnorton.co.uk

BRAKE LEVER (HONDA) TO SUIT OUR UNIVERSAL FRONT MASTER CYLINDER

JAPANESE MADE ALUMINIUM BRAKE LEVER WITH PROTECTIVE CLEAR PLASTIC SLEEVE AND BLACK RUBBER BALL END TO SUIT OUR UNIVERSAL FRONT MASTER CYLINDER PART NUMBER
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

Maybe some one like Pazzo (Vancouver, BC) would do a one off if you sent them 10x stock clutch/brake levers and they could match their existing lever (short or long) and cam mechanism to a machined down base of our stock levers. I dont know if they would even entertain it or if it would be cost effective.

View attachment 95843

Another option would be to find someone in our community here with the machine skills to do that using a standard cheaper adjustable donor levers, and using new stock Norton levers provided by customers as a core.

You wouldnt need to fully machine the pivot block and hole as above, just the interface for the cam/handle.

When I crashed my Norton last year and broke my shoulder, it rashed up the clutch lever. I got a new one from Pazzo and they sent me the wrong pivot block. All I did was swap the lever part to my existing pivot block, which was fine.

Either of these options would likely to need a group buy to be feasible.
Click to expand...
...and then we would have to argue about which colour! :)
 
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Onder said:
...and then we would have to ague about which colour! :)
Click to expand...
Well, you would pobably have to go with the alloy lever ro match the pivot block. But you could go crazy with the adjuster!

Mine have a black block and adjuster with a warm pewtery colored lever.
 
If you modify the heel of the lever all it will do is allow the piston to travel further out of the bore. This can be done as some in use levers lose a lot of material on the heel, but it would need comparison with a new lever to gauge how much to remove. You can try adding material to the flat of the lever which will prevent it travelling to far from the grip. But, if you do this you then start to move the primary seal towards its hole it covers to then apply pressure to the circuit, so you will need to check this by use to ensure the brake does not come on with the lever at rest.
One question not been asked is if the lever is an original item, as others have indicated above, the lever should travel further when applied.
 
You can also drill and tap the lever for a set screw here :


Need to move brake lever closer to bar after 13m MC install

( long screw only for demo )
I also made the lever longer by welding 2 together, and bent it to fit my grip.
 
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