My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

TomU

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Yes sir with my son holding the other end. He couldn't hold it tight enough though. Think i'll remount them before taking the heads off and see if that gives me enough back force (without damaging the head)
 
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Both the front brake and MC are frozen. Fun days
If you are lucky, you should be able to remedy that without replacing it all. Leaving anything outside a long time usually leads to a lot of disassembly and cleaning. It can be a lot of work for sure. The real fun will come when you get it fired up and on the road.

I've had the brakes slowly lock up underway on a modern garaged bike that wasn't ridden for a couple of years. Feels like the motor is seizing up while it happens. It was the condition of the brake fluid and lack of use. Fortunately, I was able to let the brakes cool down and move the brake lever in and out about 100 times to free things up enough to get back home.
 

TomU

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I've had the brakes slowly lock up underway on a modern garaged bike that wasn't ridden for a couple of years. Feels like the motor is seizing up while it happens. It was the condition of the brake fluid and lack of use. Fortunately, I was able to let the brakes cool down and move the brake lever in and out about 100 times to free things up enough to get back home.
Seizing is probably better than fading. I track my car and was going into a turn at 80 mph when i learned i had no brakes :eek:. Turned out the fluid boiled and a couple pumps brought them back, but for the split second it was a little nerve racking to say the least

I've ordered a peg spanner (or should i say wrench, this is 'Merica) so will see if i can get the pistons out without assistance from the MC, which is shot.
 

gortnipper

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Yes sir with my son holding the other end. He couldn't hold it tight enough though. Think i'll remount them before taking the heads off and see if that gives me enough back force (without damaging the head)
Holding it can be really hard sometimes. Bolt the silencer to a bench and twist the j of the header after putting heat on th join.
 
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Yea ,

Pull the OLil Tank , now ya know its worfwhile .

THEN theres the

If you can get it HOT TANKEDS . freferaly at a engine builder or radiator shop , preferably alkjaline .

New Oil Lines . Check the wheel bearings & dust off/ deglaZE THE BRAKE SHOES . EMERY pAPER . and THE BRAKE FACE. oIL THE CABLE .

flush & RE FLUID EVEYFING . fRONT hYDRALICS . fORK lEGS . Drain . Fill em with kero or deziol. Then after a little action , drain & flush till NIL debri emerges .

Wash the pintwork with Meths or somesuch . A 300 gramme Dupli Colour CLEAR to preserve the original ( ish ) finish . ITS ONLY ORIGINAL ONCE .

F*#! the ' concourse ' money ponces . And Whatch It . Its not oneoff those nasty Jap Jobs wotle tryn kill yer .It a vicious pommy thug .

LOOK AFTER IT . Write a thesis on isolastics , after having studdied them .

LATER , Striup out and claen the cross tubes . Use the bronze impregnated thrust washers . unless smomething betters come up .
With the McHine LEVEL , the gap , levering the cradle side to side , should equalise F & R . Prett Much . i.e. Not All On oipposite Sides !

And inf you run other than 2 to 5 thou. Your MAD . i.e. set , once bedded in , to 2 to 2 1/2 , and reset once at 5 thou. Checked LEVEL ( on the BEER CRATE . if theres still such a thing )
This is very hard on beer crates . Dont use that as an excuse for excess consuption . Dont Dreink & Ride . Concrete walls and things are harder than they look . Even Sober .

I used 3/16 alluminum for the top sideplate . A marginal improvent . Best I saw was third isolastic UNDER the gearblox. Three Points = a PLANE . So it really flies .
 
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Then Theres the Exhaust Tool . And leaning on it immediately .Ea Heat Cycle . post run , till the sealing gaskets ' stabilised ' .

AND the Gearbox adjustment is locked FORWARD , Holding the top cross bolt from shifting aft . AS IN

Set The Primary . un overtight , a merdiocum of SLACK , to the forefinger .
PUT your ugly boot on the rear chain run , bleedy near stnd on it .
NOW put your didgit tip on the top primary run .
IT SHOULD NOT BE BAR TAUGHT .

Once satisfactory , fully tighten cross boltsa , then set adjuster forward aghainst top cross bolt , & secure .

Dunno if this synthetic ATF ( Transmax Z ) would be good in the primary . CRI 40 was monograde non dtergent turbo diesel ' big cylinder ' oil .

A MAGNET or two , here & there , is akin to ' inspecting the filters .' .

ALSO , your #@*! Auto Advance set ups gunna need stipping , cleaning & oiling . Springs are Std Lucas Anything .
Unless your a devotte of the school of advnced points maintanace & operation , Elec Ign before touring will avoid grief .
Properly Maintaind & installed C B assemblies CAN hold a setting . If you have a throne in your wall & a candle , for them .

Both FUEL TAPS - On , full wellie . or further carblego dry / lean / pink / rattl.e / hole crowns . And other dirty tricks .

SAo it devotion & clean fluids . Rather than cromeing & paint bills . If it drips a bit , it helps stop it rusting .

K&N air filters , plus a custom one gallon o.a. oil tank wouldnt harm it .
If you ride it regular , after a few years , someone should be pi**ed off enough about the rusty rims , to give you some mint ones . Free .
 
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TomU

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Seriously, think i got most of that

And on keeping it original. I'm not generally a big fan of "ground off" restorations, but will need to remove most everything to get to what i need to rehab. So should i respray this?

IMG_1476sm.jpg


IMG_1474sm.jpg


The barrel has rust on it also
 

Scout63

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Posts 47 and 48 are pure gold. Like good poetry I get more from them every reading. Thanks Matt.
 
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Nickle Plate It ? . Had Triumph engine plates GALVANISED . you be hard put to know the differance .

Factory alledgedly does it on Land Rover Chassis .

Id put a small hole up in the shock mount area , so all the tubes can ' breath ' , if so .
Or just to Oil their insides otherwise .
 

Fast Eddie

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Seriously, think i got most of that

And on keeping it original. I'm not generally a big fan of "ground off" restorations, but will need to remove most everything to get to what i need to rehab. So should i respray this?

View attachment 16387

View attachment 16388

The barrel has rust on it also
If you’re taking it down that far, then IMHO you should paint. If not, I suspect you’ll regret not doing so later on.
 
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There seems to be a current craze for "Will it start?". I pale when I see it. After you run it and it is, at best, tired, you have not
done anything any good.
I know it is a joke about tear it down but honestly a full INSPECTION after tear down at least gives you data to make a decision on
how much you can afford to spend.
...and spend you will :-(
I'm thrilled that a person younger than me is joining the Norton fray!
 

TomU

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There seems to be a current craze for "Will it start?". I pale when I see it. After you run it and it is, at best, tired, you have not
done anything any good.
Umm, it's an engine. They are made to start

I know it is a joke about tear it down
Nope, no joke

I'm thrilled that a person younger than me is joining the Norton fray!
That's an assumption, but probably valid ;)
 

TomU

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If you’re taking it down that far, then IMHO you should paint. If not, I suspect you’ll regret not doing so later on.
Yeah, that's where i'm probably headed. But a complete respray, or just rattle can the rusty bits? Probably respray
 
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Awww hell.... In for a penny in for a pound.... Bought mine 42 years ago and have about 25K on her right now and I'm feeling ashamed because only things I've opened are the rocker covers and primary/clutch. I do confess to rebuilding the forks, carbs, clutch, front brakes, and peeking inside her cylinders with the scope though like a pervert.
Tear it down no because still doesn't use much oil and it makes plenty of noise when running, so it must be okay. Right?
 
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