My Norton, and "why do mufflers crack?"...

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Technically - 360' parallel twin, as sideways twin, implies German boxer or Italian engine, whose jugs have not age sagged as low as stolen British engine design BMW's. Takes at least a decade of daily study and wrenching recoveries to earn respectable knowledge on the most simply complex exotic stop gap temporary 5 year best cycle ever sold. The most educational archive sites now defunct so UK-NOC google search best to study as this forum mainly pointed at non Norton expensive substitutions. If only aware of this small but concentrated forum advisers, then un-aware of 90% of Norton world ya can only sample by attending major rallys or phone pow wow with long famous Norton global parts vendors. Smart owners shop by currency exchange rates or ignorant ebay sellers to get some advantage wasting less funds.

My Norton, and "why do mufflers crack?"...
 
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Your right idle circuit may be restricted by the way that plug looks. I have the same issue on the Titanic. Runs fine when you get rolling, but the idle just isn't perfect yet and one plug is whiter than the other.

Once you have the pistons at TDC, put it in gear and let the back tire down onto the floor. The pistons will be the most reluctant to move if they are EXACTLY at TDC and putting it in gear with the weight of the bike obn the wheels should keep them there. Or you could remove the primary and place a chunk of wood between the triplex chain and the clutch basket. Agsin, the important thing is keeping the pistons in place.
 
A bit more noodling around. NGK, lol... Anyone recommend a better plug cap?

My Norton, and "why do mufflers crack?"...
IMG_3216 by michael delage, on Flickr

Left (Port? Garboard? Dunno, never had a sideways twin before) plug:

My Norton, and "why do mufflers crack?"...
IMG_3217 by michael delage, on Flickr

Starboard:

My Norton, and "why do mufflers crack?"...
IMG_3218 by michael delage, on Flickr

A bit of good news:

My Norton, and "why do mufflers crack?"...
IMG_3221 by michael delage, on Flickr

And more good news:

My Norton, and "why do mufflers crack?"...
IMG_3222 by michael delage, on Flickr

So, plugs look lean to me, but not terribly so. Wasn't a proper plug chop anyway, just driving down Main Street at 1/4 throttle, into the driveway and then switched off.

Compression seems decent for unknown mileage. 38,000 indicated but must have been rebuilt at some point.

Can anyone suggest how to hold the piston at TDC for a leakdown test? My other bikes (KTM) have a bolt to lock the crank at TDC, or on my Ducatis I can leave them in gear and stand on the brake lever. This didn't work on the Norton.

Michael
plug colour looks pretty good,but obviously you need to do a proper plug chop for a full appraisal
 
Your right idle circuit may be restricted by the way that plug looks. I have the same issue on the Titanic. Runs fine when you get rolling, but the idle just isn't perfect yet and one plug is whiter than the other.

Once you have the pistons at TDC, put it in gear and let the back tire down onto the floor. The pistons will be the most reluctant to move if they are EXACTLY at TDC and putting it in gear with the weight of the bike obn the wheels should keep them there. Or you could remove the primary and place a chunk of wood between the triplex chain and the clutch basket. Agsin, the important thing is keeping the pistons in place.

Thank you for the suggestion. I tried exactly that, putting at TDC using a dial indicator, in gear, and tire on the ground; but it just spins the tire (front wheel is locked in a Handy vise). It'll start to come up, but by the time I get to 60psi or so, it just spins. My leakdown tester uses 100 psi. I suppose I need to pull the primary cover, if I really want to know. Not that important, I suppose. Bike starts 1st or 2nd kick, even at 40F. Edit: forgot to mention, bike has a Tri-Spark fitted; I understand these make starting much easier. It certainly does start with no difficulty.


You're implying the hobot cd be a robot?

Are you saying he isn't?

Michael
 
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