My 2018 CR just fired up 1st press of the starter!

comet

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Hello Comet , What kind of tick over problem are you having ? High idle when hot ? Intermittent high idle ? Bike kills at a stop sign ?
Mainly the first one, high idle when hot although it isn't consistent, in that it doesn't always do it. I've bought the thick gasket to insulate the throttle bodies from heat and I'm going to have a look at the idle control valve and will also try the suggestion about blocking off the IAC pipe.

I was interested in the throttle body calibration as at one point the factory told me I would need new throttle bodies due to the idle screw being adjusted. I found out from SC that this wasn't necessary as SC had provided Norton with instructions for setting the idle screw using their software, which is something else I will be doing. The factory had at least 3 attempts at fixing the tickover issue while it was in warranty although all they did was change the mapping and adjust the TPS - although I could never find out what map they had actually used. I know now as I have the SC software, and it's on the right map for the short pipes. In the end I determined that they weren't going to fix it, as each time they said it was fixed and it wasn't, and it was costing me £200 to ship it to them. To be fair to current folks, the technical staff I was dealing with are no longer there.

Although I'm not as mechanically inclined as others on this forum I find it helps to understand a problem even if you don't end up fixing it yourself, hence the question about the calibration. Could the butterfly adjustment be checked using a vacuum gauge, I'm assuming this is how carbs would be synchronised?
 
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Yes , I agree with all that. I am working on my idle as we speak. I may have some news to share later . I have installed the heat insulator and working on another idea .
 

comet

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Tony, your post in the "kangaroo" thread about purchasing a billet fuel rail got me wondering. I was told that my fuel rail had been replaced due to the flaking that occurred in the type that was previously installed. I went out to check and it definitely wasn't a billet one so I've just taken it off and it's steel, with the inside covered in rust!

169C3919.jpg169C3918.jpg169C3911.jpg


I also removed the throttle bodies and can see that a small plastic cover is split, so that wouldn't have helped. One of the throttle body o-rings was also broken but that could have happened as I removed the throttle body.

169C3912.jpg
 
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Good Find ! Replace the fuel rail with the billet version , install the heat insulator , get new throttle body o-rings and replace those split caps. On my Nov. 2014 bike I don't have those small inlet tubes next to the IAC port hose . Those can be pulled out and the holes threaded and set screws loctited in. Be sure to clean passages after . That's what mine has from factory. Odd that this wasn't found at the service you went in for .?
 
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In Stuart's case the throttle stop screw has moved, and moves freely which has moved the butterflies from their home position. When we send them back, the manufacturer puts them on a vacuum bench and resets the level of air allowed through the throttle bodies at its idle position.
 
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Hello Rob , Does Norton recommend the use of the injector filter screens ?
 
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In Stuart's case the throttle stop screw has moved, and moves freely which has moved the butterflies from their home position. When we send them back, the manufacturer puts them on a vacuum bench and resets the level of air allowed through the throttle bodies at its idle position.
From Richard-7 archives : Use of a lock nut ..


throttle stop screw LOCK NUT.png
 
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Due to other things (mostly riding other bikes) my 961 got laid up for 10 days, no charger connected. Voltage had dropped to 13.28V on my meter. She refused to fire up for 4 or 5 revolutions, lcd kept saying low voltage. Ignition off then on again, refused to fire, low voltage on LCD. Ignition off then on again, patiently watched the volts climb back up to above 12V, pressed starter and she fired up. It does appear that the Lithiums get 'stronger' if allowed to warm up. I know my limits now, 10 days laid up without charge isn't bad at all. Next time I will turn ign on and let the Lithium battery 'warm' up for a while (as suggested elsewhere) and see if that helps.
 
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10 Days off with no charge and you can still get it to crank and fire , that's good. When the weather is warm outside you will have an even easier time starting with the Shorai .
 

Fast Eddie

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Having a Shorai on mine is why I chose not to fit an LED headlamp bulb, cos the lights come on full anyway, I figure that a few seconds with lights on is a way of warming up the battery.
 
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Its Spring. How cold is it.? Ive read the Li batteries only need warming up below 40F or mid 30s and below.
 
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Its Spring. How cold is it.? Ive read the Li batteries only need warming up below 40F or mid 30s and below.
It's mid-50's here. It's not how warm outside but seems to be a combination of how long they've sat without charge and the willingness to dump there charge without first warming up the internals. It's odd that although my first two attempts to start were sluggish and no hint of firing up, the third attempt the starter spun the motor with more oomph and she fired up.
 
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