Mk3 and Mosfet Regulator/ Rectifier

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Thanks for everybody's comments, my electrical knowledge is not flash so could somebody with better knowledge comment on this please-

If I was to put double bullet connectors where the stator connects to the loom and make a 2 wire loom going from the bullet connectors direct to the assimilator, my thinking being that by doing this the AC pulse/ signal would get to the assimilator before being shut down by the regulator/ rectifier, would this work?
 
possm said:
Thanks for everybody's comments, my electrical knowledge is not flash so could somebody with better knowledge comment on this please-

If I was to put double bullet connectors where the stator connects to the loom and make a 2 wire loom going from the bullet connectors direct to the assimilator, my thinking being that by doing this the AC pulse/ signal would get to the assimilator before being shut down by the regulator/ rectifier, would this work?
Click to expand...
If it were me, I would simply replace the WLA with a BSM - you get more useful info off the same hole in the dash.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Glen, I’ve got two of those on the shelf too. I spec’d them to go green at a slightly higher voltage for Shorai batteries though.

Can you please explain, in layman Luddite language, exactly how and where they should be wired in?
Click to expand...
Nigel, other than horn, just tap into any hot-with- key on wire in the shell for the feed and connect the other Eclipse lead to ground.
Voltage is akin to pressure in a water line so the system pressure only comes up to its proper level when the whole charging system is working properly.
The voltage monitor also shows you when the load is balanced. As soon as the flashing red changes to solid red the load is balanced. So you could ride all night with vest and lights on showing solid red ( lead acid) and the battery would be happy.
Nonetheless, green is more comforting and easy to reach with the RM 23 at about 2500 rpm with the 30 watt LED headlight & a 40 watt heated vest. Your RM 24 should manage the same at an even lower balance rpm.

Glen
 
possm said:
If I was to put double bullet connectors where the stator connects to the loom and make a 2 wire loom going from the bullet connectors direct to the assimilator, my thinking being that by doing this the AC pulse/ signal would get to the assimilator before being shut down by the regulator/ rectifier, would this work?
Click to expand...
Unlikely to make any difference I would have thought.

Stephen Hill said:
Should this be relevant, here is the Old Britts link to the diagram that works with a solid state rectifier and a three phase alternator. Third diagram down.
Old Britts, Simplified Wiring Diagrams
Click to expand...

The alternator is the single-phase RM23 not three-phase (RM24) and the diagrams show the three-wire silver can assimilator.
 
Thanks for everybody's input, as I have tried to keep the rebuild as original as possible i am a bit disappointed there was nothing stated about this problem on Trisparks website, I have sent an enquiry to them via their website but am yet to have a reply, I have a Ctek Charging plug with LED's on the battery though I cant see it while I'm riding but at least I can see the condition of the battery. A gain thanks for everybody's input.
 
possm said:
Thanks for everybody's input, as I have tried to keep the rebuild as original as possible i am a bit disappointed there was nothing stated about this problem on Trisparks website, I have sent an enquiry to them via their website but am yet to have a reply, I have a Ctek Charging plug with LED's on the battery though I cant see it while I'm riding but at least I can see the condition of the battery. A gain thanks for everybody's input.
Click to expand...
Well, if original doesn't work with TS. Either revert for points to be original or embrace a more functional change. ;-)
 
Thanks Dave for your blunt reply, as you will hopefully remember from Raincliffe, my '69 Fastback was as period as i could present and maintain, I have tried to attain a similar spec with the Mk3, modifications where appropriate that don't detract outwardly from originality i.e. Pazon Altair upgraded prestolite starter etc, as I brought the Mk3 in pieces and didn't have the matched zeners though I searched for a replacement I felt the Trispark setup was the best choice of what I thought was available [no where did I read that it was not compatible with the assimilator] and as I had purchased the 4 wiring looms plus console lights, bulbs etc and they are all new I don't want to revisit it, as stated it is frustrating that it has cost me 2 new assimilators to find out that there was nothing wrong with them and no there is not a described way of test them in the factory manual.
 
possm said:
didn't have the matched zeners
Click to expand...

Although it doesn't matter in this instance, the two Zeners were connected on the AC side of the Mk3's charging system so there was no requirement for them to be a matched pair, unlike the later three-phase RM24 'Powerbase' conversion that had two matched Zeners on the DC side of the system.
granttiller.com

Your Bike’s Charging System - Regulator/Rectifiers and Alternators

A walk through how the charging system works on a classic brit bike with a deep dive into different aftermarket regulator/rectifiers
granttiller.com granttiller.com

possm said:
as stated it is frustrating that it has cost me 2 new assimilators to find out that there was nothing wrong with them and no there is not a described way of test them in the factory manual.
Click to expand...

Easy to say in hindsight I know but just a pity you didn't mention the problem sooner as the additional expense could probably have been avoided.
 
JimNH said:
I've been preaching Sparkbrite for years. Trash the assimilator and put the Spark Brite in the same hole and get real information.
Click to expand...
I would definitely agree - I have had a BSM for many years. There are options out there now that are more readily available and cost effective than the WLA, as well as the additional info they provide over the WLA.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Glen, I’ve got two of those on the shelf too. I spec’d them to go green at a slightly higher voltage for Shorai batteries though.

Can you please explain, in layman Luddite language, exactly how and where they should be wired in?
Click to expand...
worntorn said:
Nigel, other than horn, just tap into any hot-with- key on wire in the shell for the feed and connect the other Eclipse lead to ground.
Voltage is akin to pressure in a water line so the system pressure only comes up to its proper level when the whole charging system is working properly.
The voltage monitor also shows you when the load is balanced. As soon as the flashing red changes to solid red the load is balanced. So you could ride all night with vest and lights on showing solid red ( lead acid) and the battery would be happy.
Nonetheless, green is more comforting and easy to reach with the RM 23 at about 2500 rpm with the 30 watt LED headlight & a 40 watt heated vest. Your RM 24 should manage the same at an even lower balance rpm.

Glen
Click to expand...
I just did mine easy peasy. Just connect the red to the W/Br leads at the assimilator and viola' you have a hot circuit wired directly to the ignition switch right there in the headlight bucket.
 
maylar said:
I didn't like the Sparkbrite - it wasn't bright enough and didn't fit the hole. I'm using the CWL from ICM and with the single light version uses the old charge indicator light.

https://www.improvingclassicmotorcycles.com/products.htm
Click to expand...
These have all been plenty bright, brighter than the old charge warning light. Hopefully the video showed that, although on the video the Red and Amber show up as stronger than the green. In real life they are all the same, very bright.
It also fit the warning light hole ok, however iirc they offer at least two sizes.
 
Last edited:
worntorn said:
These have all been plenty bright, brighter than the old charge warning light. Hopefully the video showed that, although on the video the Red and Amber show up as stronger than the green. In real life they are all the same, very bright.
It also fit the warning light hole ok, however iirc they offer at least two sizes.
Click to expand...
Maybe mine is stuck in dimmer mode because the green is simply not visible in daylight. It's just a white unlit LED. And the sizes are 8 mm or 12 mm and the factory hole is 1/2", so you need some way to adapt it. I wasn't happy at all.
 
On mine it is supposed to dim automatically once green for a fixed amount of time. This is to prevent distraction. To me it is still too much info and hard for my brain to decode while riding. I went back to a simple red light like stock but it "looks at" the 12v supply not the alternator voltage. I think this was from AO.
Russ.
 
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