Mk3 and Mosfet Regulator/ Rectifier

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possm

possm

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Hi all, I am completing a rebuild on a Mk3 that I had to fit a Trispark Mosfet Reg/ Rectifier to, I am interested on your thoughts on my problem and what I have found- I have had the bike running for about 3 weeks but my Ignition light would not go out [new warning light assimilator that I purchased during the rebuild] though with a meter on the battery I had 14.6 volts, I tried my old assimilator but that wouldn't work so I purchased another new assimilator which I fitted this week with this the light would start to go dull but then go bright again I checked my voltage and got a similar reading, My wiring loom is new [Andover] as is my battery [Yuasa YTX16BS] I checked the connections to the reg/ rectifier and it appear that the stator wires go to the Reg/ rectifier then loop to the assimilator, lastly I tried it with all lights on and got the w-light to go out, from this I can assume that the reg/ rectifier is sensing that the battery is fully charged and stopping the charging which then stops or restricts the signal going to the assimilator {my conclusion] has anybody else had a simular problem and can you suggest a remedy?
 
With 14.6 volts running your charging system is a bit hyper-active, if this figure is resting voltage your meter needs calibration or replacement. If your system's running voltage with the headlight/tail light illuminated should come down to between 13.8 and 14.2. If you have replaced your bulbs with LEDs your charging system may not have enough load to keep from freewheeling. You can purchase an electronic "assimilator" at most auto parts stores; any such swap may require different wiring, however.

Best.
 
possm said:
I checked the connections to the reg/ rectifier and it appear that the stator wires go to the Reg/ rectifier then loop to the assimilator
Click to expand...
I think the wiring should branch from the stator to the reg/rect and WLA, rather than after as your "then" implies.

Mk3 and Mosfet Regulator/ Rectifier
 
I am not sure which replacement assimilator you are using. But in case you are using the digital version, it wires differently than the original low tech heated element assimilator. A few years ago I looked hard to find a solution to this problem, and about the only wiring diagram I found that worked was on Old Britts website. I don't know if the diagram is still there, with all the changes taking place on that website.
 
Dave the female spade terminals from the stator to the regulator connections have double wires therefor I assume they go to the assimilator and yes i get continuity between the reg connections and the assimilator connections [AL] Road Scholar my 14.6 may have been a bit high [but That was what I looked for with Harleys] but it was around 14, I was pleased it was at least charging!
 
Stephen Hill said:
I am not sure which replacement assimilator you are using. But in case you are using the digital version, it wires differently than the original low tech heated element assimilator. A few years ago I looked hard to find a solution to this problem, and about the only wiring diagram I found that worked was on Old Britts website. I don't know if the diagram is still there, with all the changes taking place on that website.
Click to expand...
 
Have you considered doing away with the assimilator and installing an Eclipse voltage monitor in the warning light hole instead?
That's what I did with my MK3 a few years back.
The Voltage monitor gives you more information than the charge warning light does.

Glen
 
Dave the unit is a Trispark VR-0030 Mosfet.
Glen, I haven't seen an Eclipse monitor and am unsure if its available in New Zealand, but as this has been a full ground up rebuild with no expense spared, I'm a bit frustrated trying to nut these problems out, its not that I am new to Norton's I have owned a rebuilt them for most of my adult life.
 
Here it is in use. It is flashing slow red while idling and discharging. This indicates the system voltage is between 12.25 and 12.45.
As soon as the bike starts off the monitor goes to solid amber then green ( above 13.2v)
That tells me all is well.

 
Last edited:
The assimilator apparently doesn't work with certain reg/rec units...

"A REG ONE.
.
"On a Commando the warning light assimilator should be disconnected or replaced by our Charge Warning light driver (NCLD)"

"If your Norton has a charging warning light simulator it must not be used with the power box, remove it. If the light control is required fit the power box type PBOX00166 with charging light control."

...perhaps the Tri-Spark doesn't either?
 
L.A.B. said:
The assimilator apparently doesn't work with certain reg/rec units...

"A REG ONE.
.
"On a Commando the warning light assimilator should be disconnected or replaced by our Charge Warning light driver (NCLD)"

"If your Norton has a charging warning light simulator it must not be used with the power box, remove it. If the light control is required fit the power box type PBOX00166 with charging light control."

...perhaps the Tri-Spark doesn't either?
Click to expand...

This is what happened with mine and I just disconnected it, quite like the look of that Eclipse voltage monitor.
 
worntorn said:
Here it is in use. It is flashing slow red while idling and discharging. This indicates the system voltage is between 12.25 and 12.45.
As soon as the bike starts off the monitor goes to solid amber then green ( above 13.2v)
That tells me all is well.

Click to expand...


Glen, I’ve got two of those on the shelf too. I spec’d them to go green at a slightly higher voltage for Shorai batteries though.

Can you please explain, in layman Luddite language, exactly how and where they should be wired in?
 
They are really easy to wire in. Just choose a switched live (but not the horn feed). Alternatively you can connect them direct to the battery and you will have a constant red flashing LED. ( it makes potential thieves think twice).

"Quote" .

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
Connect the black wire to a good earth or the negative battery terminal, and the red wire to the positive side of your circuit. The monitor is suitable for both negative earth and positive earth vehicles (on a positive earthed vehicle the red wire will go to earth or the positive battery terminal).

 
cliffa said:
They are really easy to wire in. Just choose a switched live (but not the horn feed). Alternatively you can connect them direct to the battery and you will have a constant red flashing LED. ( it makes potential thieves think twice).

"Quote" .

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
Connect the black wire to a good earth or the negative battery terminal, and the red wire to the positive side of your circuit. The monitor is suitable for both negative earth and positive earth vehicles (on a positive earthed vehicle the red wire will go to earth or the positive battery terminal).

Click to expand...

That would seem to be the way to use the light as a battery status monitor. But from previous discussions here I thought folk were talking about using it as an alternator output monitor?
 
Fast Eddie said:
That would seem to be the way to use the light as a battery status monitor. But from previous discussions here I thought folk were talking about using it as an alternator output monitor?
Click to expand...
Well, true but it's (sort of) the same thing. When the battery voltage reaches 13.2v the LED changes to steady green. It cannot do that unless the alternator is working.
 
Last edited:
L.A.B. said:
The assimilator apparently doesn't work with certain reg/rec units...

"A REG ONE.
.
"On a Commando the warning light assimilator should be disconnected or replaced by our Charge Warning light driver (NCLD)"

"If your Norton has a charging warning light simulator it must not be used with the power box, remove it. If the light control is required fit the power box type PBOX00166 with charging light control."

...perhaps the Tri-Spark doesn't either?
Click to expand...
".perhaps the Tri-Spark doesn't either?"

I asked Steve Kelly from Trispark, it is not compatible with the standard MK3 WLA.

I have also a MK3 with RM23 and Trispark Mosfet R/R, and Trispark Ignition all LED-Lights
Instead I use Charge Warning light driver (NCLD) from www.norbsa02.freeuk.com.

That works with Trispark Mosfet R/R but with Podtronics R/R the Ignition light doesn`t hardly go off.
 
Last edited:
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