Milk coming out of the PVC valve

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yves norton seeley

yves norton seeley

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Hi there, to day I start my 920 engine for the second time, just to strobe the ignition, I am now using the read valve made by Jim Schmidt fit on the Maney crankcases, between engine and gearbox, I was very surprised to find a lot of "milk" comig out of the tube behind the bike, I have to say that I don't use a catch bottel.
On my 850 the XS PVC valve was put behind a original Norton piece on the left side of the timing side of the crankcase, in that piece there was akind of steel net inside the piece.
I read at one of the thread about a kind of restrictor in the tube after the PVC valve, this restrictor allowd the air to come out and keep the oil inside, but I don't find the post anymore
Can a member help me please?
Thanks
Yves
 
You have not run your bike enough to boil off accumulated condensation.

You have to thoroughly heat up the engine, and ride for a good half hour at full temp, in order to thoroughly boil off TYPICAL condensation build up. If you have excessive accumulation, you need to change the oil ASAP. Those condensates are creating caustics that can and will destroy your engine if not dealt with properly.
 
Hi Yves.
According to your description, it sounds like you have condensed water mixed with oil.
The condensation from combustion comes down to the crankcase and out of breathe tube.
After the piston rings have been bed in, this will decrease. If you've done everything right.
Good luck.
 
Yves,
I’m not sure about the post your looking for but I’m curious as to why you are running the hose to open air. I have a similar reed valve but it goes back to the oil tank where the timing case/crank case vent went. From the oil tank there is a tube that vents out. Jim S’s reed valve is probably low enough to pump out some wet sump oil mixed with condensation to give you that milky mix. IIRC you have a custom oil tank so I’m guessing you may not have that fitting for the timing/crank vent. If you are pumping wet sumping oil that might be hard to control even with a catch can.
Pete
 
In deep south, we call it oil cap pudding. Should not happen on new engine with new oil, unless sat up so long in non climate controlled area, allowed condensation to collect on engine insides, which should still not be enough to create "mayonnaise", if effective check PCV valve to prevent humidity to enter the only non oil filled-blocked atmosphere portal into crankcase. New water cooled engines can do this if head or manifold gasket leaks right off. Air churned oil don't pump well nor lubricate so a proper machanic would change oil or really expensive stuff, stove heat the moisture out. Ring blow by combustion moisture is main source so maybe an issue there.

https://www.google.com/search?clien.....0...1c..64.psy-ab..0.1.112....0.4HSderXo7Ro
 
That lower rear sump reed valve is supposed to blow oil and air through a hose into the oil tank - another hose comes out of the oil tank and there should be no or little oil coming out as long as the oil tank is not too full. The milky color is because its butt cold freezing where you are.
 
So, if I understand well I must weld a piece on the oil tank to fit the hose but then I must change the oil, to no? I can not imagine to send such mayo back to the oil tank?
Yves
 
Yves, if you are running a standard Commando oil tank, there are two horizontal tubes at the top of the tank. One is close to the filler cap, the other is closer to the front of the tank.
Run your new JS breather hose to the tube closest to the filler cap, that way if and when your bike wet sumps after sitting for some time, you can see the oil return to the tank when you first kick it over and start.
The other tube is just to vent your tank, either to the back of the air cleaner plate like with the factory air cleaner or to a catch bottle as I do for my race bike.
As other have said, if not enough heat in the oil to remove moisture, you will get the small amount of froth, otherwise your oil could be contaminated, although I doubt it if you have just put it in the tank and there is no moisture present any where else in the system.
REgards Mike
 
Unless living in a warm dry (humidity) country and or riding short distances water in the oil seems a fact of life. There is always water in the bottom of my oil tank, if you don't change oil frequently then every thousand miles or so you need to drain it (water) out of the tank. My average 'sector' length is probably about 30 mins.
 
Brooking 850 said:
Yves, if you are running a standard Commando oil tank, there are two horizontal tubes at the top of the tank. One is close to the filler cap, the other is closer to the front of the tank.
Run your new JS breather hose to the tube closest to the filler cap, that way if and when your bike wet sumps after sitting for some time, you can see the oil return to the tank when you first kick it over and start.
The other tube is just to vent your tank, either to the back of the air cleaner plate like with the factory air cleaner or to a catch bottle as I do for my race bike.
As other have said, if not enough heat in the oil to remove moisture, you will get the small amount of froth, otherwise your oil could be contaminated, although I doubt it if you have just put it in the tank and there is no moisture present any where else in the system.
REgards Mike
Click to expand...
Hi Mike,
My bike is a Seeley with a Seeley oil tank, so I will need to weld a tube on the tank and change the oil,
tomorrow I will see how the oil looks
yves
 
If the tank didn't have provision for a vent INLET, I would instead run a catch bottle. That way you avoid re-contamination with milk/mayo.

Hopefully you have no wet sump issues.
 
Yves,
IMHO even if you bike doesn’t wet sump I think there is enough oil being thrown around in the crankcase that it will make its way out thru the reed valve. I suggest you run that hose back to the oil tank. I not sure if it will need to be baffled because the hose will be under pressure on the engine down stroke or blocked off by the reed valve on the up stroke. But your oil tank needs a vent also so it will not pressurize. That line might need a baffle.
As I said before I have a similar valve but it is mounted in the bottom of the sump. When coming back from a ride and opening the oil cap I will see small spurts of oil returning to the tank through reed valve hose. Not much but if it was vented to the outside it would leave some oil droplets.
If you bike does wet sump, and the reed valve is below the oil level, all that extra oil will be pushed out of that valve and make a mess. I could be wrong about all of this but I thought I would give more to think about. LOL

Pete
PS. It could be those Polar bears messing with you
 
I would have thought that Seeley would have proper lube/vent plumbing arrangements...
 
You will always get white froth at the end of a hose hanging out the back no matter how hot you get it
 
grandpaul said:
I would have thought that Seeley would have proper lube/vent plumbing arrangements...
Click to expand...
Why do you think a Seeley with an oil tank is in any way different to a Commando when it comes to the oil system?

The only difference will be that the oil tank will be low volume manufacured in alloy. Designs generally allow for older types of engine breathers, so you most probably will need to add an inlet for a reed valve breather, either to tank or cap.

Now, the Rickman OIF is different, and I don't think I have mine just how I want it yet. Meaning it would probably benefit from an additional oil return inlet to the 3 it has! The 2 oil tank vents feed to a 500ml catch tank....and I get oil in there....but since it is mainly short scratch racing I can usually empty it before it fills to the top.

This didn't happen with earlier timing case breathers, but timing case oil went direct to the catch tank then anyway. With the current set up clearly the tank runs a positive pressure as the crankcase runs a negative pressure, the pressure has to vent somewhere.
 
SteveA said:
Why do you think a Seeley with an oil tank is in any way different to a Commando when it comes to the oil system?
Click to expand...
I DIDN'T think it would be any different from a Commando, but Yves stated HIS (Seeley) oil tank DOES NOT have breather pipe connections.
 
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