So how much HP can the Commando achieve with a somewhat reliable results? Somewhere around 70? Are flat slides mandatory in that neighborhood?
panic said:"Are flat slides mandatory in that neighborhood"
What does that mean?
panic said:You could use a Holley 4 bbl. if you knew how.
Dr_Hiller said:As a CNW owner, he probably wonders if the 35mm Keihin's are a must as far as achieving the potential of the powerplant.
Panic - is there an easy CFM calculator for engines that would tell Tony if how much flow his engine combo needs? I recall doing something similar for my engine and came up not with a CFM number but a carb size (might have been out of the Dunstall tuning book) and came up with 34mm.
Tony, there's a lot of work that's needed to make the bottom end of the long rod parallel-twin bomb-proof so that you can spin the rpm's to make peak power. For instance, a Maney short-stroke 750 (his barrels, case-halves, lightweight crank) with custom pistons and rods mated to a Johnson j380 cam, head, etc. will make about 8,000 rpm without running the piston speed too high. Set up right, you could hit 80hp. Looking at about $12k for the motor.
However, if you put the effort (and money) in - you can probably make 65+hp pretty easily and without fear of catastrophe. If you're just looking at bolt-ons, you're a bit more limited though.
Sometimes, it's a little impractical to try and re-invent these old motors.
ludwig said:Are you after power or after speed ?
I think I may say I have a pretty fast and reliable roadgoing Commando , but instead of pooring money in the engine , I invested in brakes , lightness , suspension , frame …
Personally , I find it odd that some people happily put several 1000 $ in cams , rods and carbs , but hesitate to spend the same amount on brakes . ( brakes = speed ! )
My Commando is lower , shorter , narrower and much lighter than a STD 850 : 130 kg (290 lbs ) dry . Shedding 140 lbs equals 20 HP , with the additional benefit of putting far less strain on gears , drive train , frame , brakes , etc …
I am shure not everybody wants to sacrifice the original ( good ) looks of their bike , but I see it more like a tool to do a certain job , and I am pretty happy with it .
mikegray660 said:ludwig said:Are you after power or after speed ?
I think I may say I have a pretty fast and reliable roadgoing Commando , but instead of pooring money in the engine , I invested in brakes , lightness , suspension , frame …
Personally , I find it odd that some people happily put several 1000 $ in cams , rods and carbs , but hesitate to spend the same amount on brakes . ( brakes = speed ! )
My Commando is lower , shorter , narrower and much lighter than a STD 850 : 130 kg (290 lbs ) dry . Shedding 140 lbs equals 20 HP , with the additional benefit of putting far less strain on gears , drive train , frame , brakes , etc …
I am shure not everybody wants to sacrifice the original ( good ) looks of their bike , but I see it more like a tool to do a certain job , and I am pretty happy with it .
Ludwig - i agree, but am curious how you shed 140 lbs??
ludwig said:1. easy gains : remove all "unneccecary " parts :
central stand , Z- plates , headlamp shell , footrests , ...
2. a bit more expensive : replace heavy parts with lighter ones : wheels , clutch , instruments , brakes , battery ,alloy barrels , direction indicators ......
3. more difficult : remanufacture parts in lighter material (alu , epoxy ) :engine craddle , isolastic parts , sprockets , oil tank , tripple tree , fenders , seat , chain guard , primary chain case , wheel hubs , thinwall ss mufflers , fork internals .hollow wheel shafts , side stand etc ..
Every bolt and nut is put on a scale . every gram counts !..
Lower weight doesn't do much to increase top speed on a flat road , but in the environement where I use the bike ( mountains ) it makes a big difference .
http://www.alpineroads.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=291