Early Ducati GT 750's came with Marzocchis on both ends. Prior to buying the Ducati GT I had a BSA A 50, Triumph Bonneville & Trident and 2 Nortons. I also purchased a Honda CB 750 K1. I did not notice any major performance differences from the suspension with the exception of the Honda which seemed over sprung and which I sold at relatively low miles after getting fired from the Triumph dealer 15 minutes after the owner saw me ride up for work. I went to the Norton dealer but parked the Honda out-of-sight for fear I wouldn't get a chance to speak with the owner; kinda like driving through Detroit in the late 60s/early70s in a Toyota...
I learned over the years that better suspension components (dampers) gave you a broader "sweet spot" and better road feel.
Suspension technology has moved on an awful lot in 40 / 50 years. An AWFUL lot.
My R-Design '07 Volvo S60 had 3 damper settings that could be selected electrically from the driver's seat, 1) stiff on local roads at speeds under 40 MPH: 2) very stiff on state numbered roads and 3) where-is-the-nearest-dentist on roads with pot holes and frost heaves (does keep you awake). stiff became tolerable at speeds over 40 MPH (assuming the road surface wasn't full of pot holes) Very stiff did a good job on major limited access roads like Interstates (especially entrance and exit ramps) at speeds up to at least 120 MPH (I hadn't challenged the speed limiter which gives you the finger, supposedly, at 155 MPH. My current '016 S60 R-Design does not have this feature, but if (and when) the roads are good is like sitting on a magic carpet and it has over 100 more horses which I turn loose any time the risks to other motorists is near zero.
My point is that true active suspension isn't available on cars unless you are buying high-dollar cars like Jaguar, Porsche, Ferrari, yada, yada, yada; it is coming and will soon be affordable on non-custom street bikes.
So, find springs that give you the proper sag, then dampen the springs until they give you the sweet-spot where you ride most with more room beyond that speed, and, yes, you'll get a stiffer ride below that. If you run into damper misbehavior at the upper end of you dampers capability, then buy better dampers with more "bandwidth".
I had a ZRX 1100, which wallowed at speeds over 90. I called Race Tech which sold me an adjustable fork cartridge kit and after a few shim changes and stiffer springs solved my suspension issues. I checked out Penske shocks, but at $1700/pair decided that the money would be wasted; if I was a competitive racer I wouldn't have thought twice. When you have the best of the best and properly sorted the only excuse is yours to own, or as someone once said, "second place is first looser".
Match the shocks with fork upgrades from Race Tech, Consentino , Covenant and now on the horizon an Olins version. Or as many talented members have done simply adapt a set of forks from a modern motorcycle and with a great side benefit: never need to lace and true the screwest front wheel ever made for a motorcycle. I'm sure that places like Buchanons' Have a room where the lace and true Norton Commando with a sign on the door (locked at all times) that says "No unauthorized admittance, violators will simply cease to exist"
Best.
